Clutch issues

Ok, I'm new here. I recently picked up an '81 Maxim 650.

I'm having some trouble getting my clutch to disengage completely when I pull the handle.

If I start the bike while it's on the big stand (rear wheel off the ground), pull in the clutch and push it down into 1st gear, the rear wheel starts spinning right away.

If I try to start it in gear with the clutch pulled, I can still feel the bike trying to roll forward like it's partially in gear.

Push starting is impossible because the bike won't roll very easily.

It seems partly out of gear because it is easier to push it with the clutch handle in as opposed to near impossible to push in gear without pulling the clutch.
It wants to stall at low speeds when I pull in the clutch handle to coast.

I've maxed the adjustments at both ends of the cable and it did improve but still isn't "right".

Any ideas? Is it cable stretch?

Thanks

 

hi conn, welcome.
has the bike been standing for long?
put a wrench on the clutch arm at the gear box end, pull the hand lever in fully & try gently with the wrench to see if there is any more travel left.
with the bike on the center stand the rear wheel will rotate slightly that's normal.
good luck. wiz.

 

Thanks for the fast reply. My impession from the PO was that he was at least driving it some.

Yes, the arm at the gear box end can move nearly half an inch when I have the clutch pulled and the adjustments maxed.

 

you would have to think the cable is stetched, see if anyone else posts before you do anything drastic. wiz.

 

Adjust the throw-out to the Clutch.
Get rid of "In-gear fight ... Red Light Creep ... and Hard to Find Neutral"

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... tment.html

 

hi conn, if you have read RickCo Matic's highly descriptive and informative "how to" you will realise that you can take up some slack by rotating the arm a few splines.

 

Boy, you said it Wiz. That sounds like just the thing. My thanks to you and Rick. I should have some time later to try this and will report back my results.

Chris

 

OK here's the update. I did as Rick suggested and adjusted the throwout arm. It made no difference at all.

I also discovered that if I use a wrench to gently rotate the throwout rod clockwise as far as it will go, I'm still not getting anything like a full release from whatever gear it's in.

In any gear, with the clutch handle pulled, the bike is hard to push. It's obviously not fully engaged since I CAN push it but a 30 ft push would wipe me out.

Any further ideas? Bad clutch? Is something else in the transmission staying locked up when it shouldn't?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Are both the wheels running freely?

 

You might as well order the parts and do the reading on installing a Clutch Kit.

I have a suspicion that your Driver Plates are either rusted, warped or both.
If you are going to ever enjoy riding that bike, you need to have a Clutch you can control and depend on.

There are several companies that make Clutch Parts for out Bikes.
You can order a complete Clutch: Frictions, Drivers and Hardware ... or, ...
You can get the various Parts all ala carte' and replace just what's needed.

Get a book.
Doing a Clutch is one of the things you have to do in life to be known as a real bike wrencher.

http://www.barnettclutches.com/products ... tch_cc=650

 

Wiz, in answer to your question, in nuetral, the wheels move freely.

Rick, I thought the clutch replacement was coming. I was considering doing it anyway just to know what the condition of everything on the bike is.

I've been kinda going over everything and making sure it operates the way I want and need it to. So far, I've rebuilt the forks, replaced the front wheel bearings, fixed some wiring issues and replaced the front brake pads.

 

Good man, conn!

Having your own new Clutch in there is a great confidence booster, especially if you are inclined to pack a lunch and go and get lost on the bike.

I have no idea what you'll find when you get into that Clutch. But, there is a condition known as "Galling" that you should investigate.

The grooves in the Clutch Basket that the dogs on the Drivers come into contact with can get marred and prevent the Plates from having their full side-to-side travel (which isn't much).

If the Basket has those deformities, you can "Dress" them out with a Stone Bit in a high-speed Dremel Tool.
Read-up on the condition and be prepared to deal with it if the Bike ever had someone that beat on it some.

Other than that, doing a Clutch is straightforward wrenching.
You just need the parts, time and a gasket.
You can make your own gasket if your clever.

 

Thanks for the assistance. I've dutifully ordered the parts and will begin the teardown sometime this week. I actually have a shop manual, Hanes manual and an owners manual. I should be covered as far as how to do it. I'll post if I run into anything unusual.

 

After measuring my plates and frictions, I found them to be well within spec. I re-assembled the clutch (dry) with the old parts. I want to verify what I'm seeing.

In nuetral, the clutch isn't "connected" to the engine at all and neither set of clutch plates will spin.

Rolling, engine off, in gear, with the clutch handle pulled will result the rear wheel forcing one set of clutch plates to spin while the other doesn't.

I think the latter scenario is what I was feeling when I felt like my clutch wasn't bringing the bike out of gear. I believe the PO had the clutch bolts torqued down too hard. Even in its current "dry" state I can pull the clutch handle and rotate the rear wheel by hand. It isn't as easy as when the bike is in nuetral but it is way easier than it was. I'll know more when I get it put back together and oil in it.

 

Be sure to use 20W / 40 SE. Not synthetic.

 

Wow, I'm glad you mentioned that. I saw 10W/30 in the book and was gonna use it. Upon closer inspection, 10w/30 is only to be used when outside temperatures are going to be less than 59 degrees F. I guess I'm so used to putting 10w30 in everything I failed to notice the change.

 

Wizard- FWIW, I just found out 20W40SE Yamalube was discontinued last year.
My dealer told me the factory recommends 20W50 now.
I tried to find some 20W40 yesterday with no luck at all.

 

Theres nothing wrong with going to 20~50.
Thats racing oil.
These bikes are high-revving engines and the protection is very good if not excellent.

 

i read some where if you are trying to clean out your clutch plates and stuff - running a few hundred miles while using Marvel Mystery Oil is a good idea.....

I've never even heard o this type of oil before, but its supposed to be a 'super lubricant' and will clean out your clutch plates and garbage...

Anyone eve use this?

 

A few hundred miles?
Marvel Mystery Oil?
Clean the clutches?

I seriously doubt it.
I have used Marvel Mystery Oil for just about everything including after shave ... but, I don't think its the stuff you want in there to clean clutch plates.

Put some in your Gas Tank and it helps with Top Cylinder Lube. Helps restore compression to Engines with stuck Rings.
Lubes Carb Parts and helps with Sticking Floats.
Sprayed right into the intake helps de-carbon Combustion Chambers.

If you have a sticking Clutch.
A lightweight lubricant isn't the way to go.

A solvent ... Like SeaFoam is a much better alternative.

 

Lol, good i mentioned it before i did anything ;-)

still some good uses for it ;-) might pick some up... if i can find that page that mentioned it I will post it for reference of what not to do!

 

yes, thats bang right, i'm running on the 20w50, I couldn't get the 20w40 just thought they had sold out.

 

Do they still make CASTROL 'R'? I used to love the smell of that.

 

Hey Conn....
I had the exact problem with my xj1100. Any chance you have or do have issues with your kick stand switch. Mine was removed from the previous owner and the wires came loose. I tried everything but pulling my clutch apart. Then I had some friends try to push start me and it just didn't sound right. I knew then that it was a wiring problem. I played with the wires for the kick stand switch and once it was wired right then I was able to put it in gear without it stalling. Now my bike works great. Give it a shot and let me know.
thanks.
Brad.

 

I'll have to have a look. I've not even taken the time to locate that switch. I did pull apart and re-assemble the clutch after finding nothing wrong in there.

Later though, I recieved the OEM friction and regular clutch plates that I ordered from Bikebandit. The Yamaha branded plates are OBVIOUSLY better made than the plates in the bike. There is no comparison. Comparatively, the installed plates look like they were made by a one armed drunken 1st grader on crack. Even though they are within spec, I'm wondering if part quality is a factor here.

 

The sidestand switch is activated by a Rod that the top of the sidestand moves.

The Rod can be the problem if its sticking in the bushing that its end protrudes from through the top of the sidestand.
Clean-out and lube the bush and insure that the Rod has free travel.

The switch, itself, sometimes gets foreign matter in it despite it having a Dust Boot.
Pull-back the Dust Boot and shoot WD-40 right into the opening.

 

Is a 1981 XJ650H Maxim equipped with a sidestand switch? I ask because I don't see one on the bike and the Haynes manual (pg238)that I have shows where to find it on: XJ650J and RJ, XJ750(UK), XJ750RH, J and RJ. There is no mention of the H model. It also doesn't show up on the XJ650H wiring diagram at the end of the owners manual. Thoughts?