It's alive!

Hi Everyone.

As of yesterday (7-23-08) my 1981 XJ650 is on the road, and it runs great! I'd like to thank everyone who helped, and you guessed it, I have even more questions.

I'm going to buy the book (no, really), but I need to find out:

How much oil does the crankcase take, and what weight do you recommend? The odometer shows about 25,000 miles.
Does the transmission share the same oil as the crankcase? If not, what should I use?

I'm assuming with the "rear end" you fill it until it's full? I know the weight of the gear lube (there's a sticker on it).

(I know these questions sound "unresearched", but I was not able to find fluid capacities anywhere online. I'm sure when I buy the book, all will be revealed to me, but I want to get these things done ASAP)

Then there's those pesky screws that won't come out of the Master Cylinder...

Lastly, if anyone has a line on a set of side covers (preferably black) let me know.

Thanks again for all of your help!

Thom

 

Congratulations!

The quantity of oil should be stamped on the side engine cover close to the fill hole. Gynotai, we don't need to start another oil thread! ;-) I use 10W-40, you pick the brand you like best. Yes, the transmission and crankcase share the same oil.

Drain the rear differential, let it set open and draining for a minimum of 30 minutes, this stuff is thick! Refill to the bottom of the treads on the fill hole.

Which screws on the MC are you referring too? The reservoir cap screws?

 

Yes. Someone was telling me the screws may have ionic bonded to the aluminum, making the only way of removing them is to drill them out.

Thanks for the information!

Thom

 

Those cap screws can be a major pain! I'd try an impact driver on them first (after soaking them a bit with some penetrating oil)... If they just round off, then you guessed it... drill/tap.. Don't even think of using an easy-out on them, because easy-outs of that size are usually crap and will break off inside the MC body. Don't ask me how I know ;-)

 

Thanks for all of your help. I planned on drilling them out. It shouldn't be that bad.

Famous last words, right? :/

Thanks again!

Thom

 

Anybody know what size the brake reservoir screws are? I need to get mine out and replace. Be nice to have some ready. Thanks

 

Hi.

Not too sure, but I want to look at it after I get the screws out. Depending on how it's designed, I may be able to drill it through and use a regular bolt & nut. Might not look the best, but...

Thom

 

If you have a screw gun that has a cluch on it set the cluch to the first setting and start the gus with a new #2bit in it . Hold constant pressure on the screws while tighting the cluch on the screw gun untial they come out.That is how I got mine out. Works every time some times.

 

Hi.

Not these. After soaking them in penetrating oil I tried with an impact driver. The "+" went to a "O" The bike was sitting for around 4 years, so any screw that actually does come out is a little victory.

Thom

 

I use this method in my line of work all the time and have gotten screws out that have been on the beach for years.

 

good news is that those screws are made of some very soft metal... A good drill bit will eat them for lunch.

 

Hi.

That's a good idea! I wonder if I could use my Dremel to cut new slots in them and try your method. The screws were already messed up before I ever owned the bike. I'll let you know how that works out for me. I have the perfect drill for that.

Thanks!

Thom

 

when all else fails C4 works wonders.

 

Hi.

Grimreaper, you're a genius! That worked perfectly. Now I have front brakes.

Thanks!

Thom

 

I'd run 20W50 not 10W40 check the oil threads there've been a few lately...

 

Hi.

With regard to oil capacity, all I saw next to the Oil filler was something like 2500 Cubic Centimeters (2500CM3)

Is that it?

Thanks!

Thom

 

With Filter 2.8 quarts. Add 2+ quarts, run engine for a minute then let sit for 5 to 10 minutes - top SLOWLY till you just squeeze the bubble off the window (although I like to leave a small bubble.). Run a bit more then let sit and check again. You have to let it sit to get an accuate level or you can overfill.

I check for a couple more days to be sure then I like to check at least weekly if bike is not burning oil.

 

Hi.

Thanks for your help!

Does anyone have any tips for draining the oil / changing the filter? I heard you should open two separate plugs? One in the front, and one either mid-way, or in the rear? I remember seeing something plug-like on the side of the engine. Man, I really need to buy a book! I also need to look closer on the engine. I see where the filter goes, but all I saw was one bolt in the center of it?

Thanks!

Thom

 

Don't mess with the middle gear plug. Not needed and only holds a small bit of oil that is replaced when engine runs. There are horror stories about breaking it...

Remove the fill cap then open the drain. Let it drain some then remove the filter. It is very common for the filter bolt to be stuck. Beware this is a bolt with built in bypass valve and costs a bit to replace. The head rounds VERY easy (voice of experience). If your is stuck there are many threads on getting it out but I recommend a good 6 point socket and an impact wrench. Reinstall with antiseize and a torque wrench.

Also be careful as oil will spill from the filter housing as well (note it's position It does not drain with the sump.

 

Hi.

I saw that bolt. I'm assuming there's only this bolt to remove the housing? Mine looks a little thrashed. I'll have to be careful.

Thanks for all your advice!

Thom