Gears?

Hey There.
I have an 82 550 maxim and they way its geared right now it almost useless at hi-way speeds in Alberta 110kph (68ish mph), does any one know how or where or if i can get a different gears for it??

 

hmmm no trouble here in 70mph traffic on the 550... Even been out on a toll road at about 80mph. Sure it revs kinda high, but it will do it all day long :-D

you could get a smaller rear sprocket somewhere.. I don't think that Yamaha made anything smaller than 45-tooth for the 550 though. Maybe someone might recommend a compatible sprocket?

 

or go up two teeth on the front sprocket, probably more readily available. Both my Seca 550's apparently came with 45's although Yamaha lists the 46T as "stock." I agree with stereomind, tho---running at 7Krpms is a bit disconcerting at first but the bike seems to thrive on it and actually seems "happier" up around 6000-7000 than it does at 5K...just run the hell out of it, it won't break...

 

Some options:


DRIVETRAIN:

Okay, once your clutch and transmission is performing admirably, now you've got to get that power out of the engine and to the rear wheel.

XJ550 models used the tried-and-true reliable chain drive system for such power transmission, while all XJ650-up models used a newly developed, smoother and more maintenance-free shaft drive system.

No matter which bike you have, we've got the repair and maintenance parts you'll need for miles and miles of trouble-free operation.



DRIVE CHAIN PARTS:

XJ550 models used the time-tested style of a chain-driven power transmission system. While certainly reliable and keeping with the traditional of Yamaha quality, chains by their nature will both wear, stretch, and need periodic cleaning, lubrication, maintenance, and eventual replacement of the drive chain and both drive sprockets.

Our line of original and top-quality aftermarket items will keep your chain-gang of components in-line, doin' time, and humming right along for years to come.

As a general rule of thumb, you can expect original drive chains and sprockets to last about 10-15,000 miles, a little more or less depending on your driving style (heavy on the throttle, or trying to pull wheelies dramatically lessens the chain life) and riding conditions (wet weather or dirty/dusty conditions will also reduce chain life) and the maintenance schedule observed (no cleaning and re-oiling of the chain or periodic tension and alignment adjustments means also you'll be replacing parts fairly quickly!).

Chain technology has changed and evolved greatly since the 1980's, and chains can now be had in three basic types----and each in a mind-numbing different grades or versions----any of which can add to the durability and service life of the chain, while also being available at different price points. We've tried to take the mystery and "salemanship" out of drive chains for you, and have pared down our selection to what we believe is the best price-to-performance ratio on the market today.

Your original chain is what is now known as a STANDARD CHAIN, and it has no additional rings or seals to help extend the life of the pins and rollers. A good basic chain such these will last about as long as an original chain, somewhere between 10,000 to 15,000 miles.

The first step upwards in "performance" chain is an O-RING CHAIN, which uses rubber o-rings to seal off the pins from the chain side plates. Since it's the PINS that stretch and wear (and not the rollers, as is commonly assumed), anything that can be done to prevent wear to the pins is a Good Thing.......and an o-ring which seals off the pin from where it enters the roller, thus keeping dirt and grit out while helping to retain lubrication in.......greatly improves the life of the chain. O-Ring style chains can generally be expected to last about 30% longer than a standard type chain, but..........with the introduction a few years ago of the X-ring style chains, there is no longer any meaningful price-to-performance difference between O-ring and X-ring style chains. Bottom line: the very small difference in price between an o-ring chain and an x-ring chain isn't worth the cost savings, in terms of the much greater strength and longevity of the x-ring style chains. Thus we do not offer any o-ring style chains!

The top-of-the-line style chain is an X-RING CHAIN, which is really an enhanced version of the o-ring type chain. X-rings are merely o-rings that feature two or more additional sealing "faces" molded into the rubber surface of the ring, thus giving more contact and thus more lubrication sealing points for the rubber ring----which means, in the case of drive chains, more dirt and grit being sealed OUT, and more lubrication "pooling" points to hold the lube IN. X-Ring style chains cost a bit more, but you can normally expect an additional 25-40% chain life over an o-ring style chain.

And once again----the life expectancy of any type of chain will be dramatically reduced by failing to lubricate often enough (once every two weeks is recommended for regularly driven bikes) or in a proper manner (clean first, then lubricate the from both sides at the bottom of the rear sprocket) or with a proper high-quality lubricant (such as the PJ1 chain lubes that we offer).

And of course, it should go without saying, but here goes anyway!: the quickest way to wear out a chain is to use it with worn or misaligned sprockets. You should ALWAYS replace your sprockets (both of them, front and rear) when you replace the chain. And you should follow the proper alignment, tightening, and adjustment procedures and schedules in your service manual in order to realize the maximum chain life.


Now, all of the above has to do with the LIFE EXPECTANCY OF THE CHAIN.....and nothing to do with the STRENGTH of the chain. Regardless of which style chain construction is used, chain strength is always expressed as the "tensile rating" of a chain. which is really a measure of how much shear strength the pins have. It's a measure of how much weight a chain can hold before it shears, and it's expressed as pounds of dead weight. For a 550 engine, anything above 7,000 pounds of tensile strength is more than adequate for even a high-performance, enthusiastically drive street bike.

All of the chains that we offer are pre-stressed for maximum perfomance, and pre-stretched for the longest life and ease of maintenance.

Finally, to replace your drive chain you will need to obtain a chain breaker and riveter tool; not cheap but a necessary evil. And although many chains are offered with either a rivet or clip type of master link, we've always found that the rivet style performs better and more reliably than a clip style, so that is what we offer whenever there is a choice of style available.

So, there you have it. We're going to staart at the beginning (at the front output shaft drive sprocket) and work our way back. Enjoy the ride!


Chain wear specifications are as follows: check the amount of FREE PLAY in your chain by placing the tranmission in neutral, and the bike on the centerstand. Push up on the bottom run of chain, midway in-between the front and rear sprockets. The allowable amount of free-play is 35-40mm, and if more or less is observed, the chain need adjustment (via the puller mechanism) or replacment if no further adjustment is possible.

With the bike still up on the centerstand, check for excessive chain wear by pulling the chain AWAY from the rear sprocket, at the 3-o'clock position of the sprocket. If more than 1/2 of a sprocket tooth can be uncovered, then the chain needs to be adjusted (via the puller mechanism), or replaced if adjustment limits have been reached.

Please refer to a factory service or aftermarket workshop manual for further inspection, lubrication, and chain drive system maintenance procedures and techniques.




Front Output Sprocket and Hardware:

Original cast alloy steel or aftermarket upgraded hardened steel aftermarket front drive sprockets should be replaced every time a new chain is installed.

The original front drive sprocket used on all XJ550 models is a 16-tooth, alloy-steel gear. Upgraded gears are normally made from a higher quality grade of steel, case hardened, hard-chromed and hand-finished for a more durable and uniform fit and function.


Additionally, 17-tooth gears are also available. A 17-tooth front gear will give you slightly less acceleration (about 5% greater), but will, in theory, allow for an increase in your top speed, and also decrease your engine rpm's at any given cruising speed. However, if most of your riding is on the highway, or if top-speed is great concern of yours, then changing your drive sprocket to a 17-tooth version may be a worthy upgrade for you.


HCP6072 OEM drive chain FRONT SPROCKET, on transmission output shaft, alloy steel, 16-tooth as originally used on all XJ550 models.
$ 16.00



HCP9565 Aftermarket standard-quality drive chain FRONT SPROCKET, on transmission output shaft, high-carbon content hardened steel, 16-tooth as originally used on all XJ550 models.
$ 19.95

HCP9566 Aftermarket standard-quality drive chain FRONT SPROCKET, on transmission output shaft, high-carbon content hardened steel, optional higher-performance 17-tooth gear can be used on all XJ550 models.
$ 21.95



HCP9564 Aftermarket premium-quality drive chain FRONT SPROCKET, on transmission output shaft, case-hardened chromoly parkerized steel, 16-tooth as originally used on all XJ550 models.
$ 24.95



HCP6073 OEM front chain sprocket HOLDER PLATE, stamped flat steel disc is used to reinforce and retain the front gear sprocket to the output shaft. For all XJ550 models.
$ 2.50

HCP6074 OEM front chain sprocket holder plate BOLT, use 2 per sprocket, used to retain the plate to the sprocket. For all XJ550 models. Each:
$ 1.75



HCP6076 OEM front chain sprocket output shaft OIL SEAL, where the output drive shaft from the engine passes through the engine case. If you're leaking oil in this area, this is NOT the proper way to lubricate your chain!. For all XJ550 models.
$ 7.95




Drive Chains:


HCP9561 Aftermarket heavy-duty STANDARD DRIVE CHAIN, 7700-pound tensile strength, non-ring style. A great quality basic chain. Use with the HCP9576 clip style master link below. For all XJ550 models.
$ 23.95

HCP9576 Aftermarket heavy-duty MASTER LINK, for use with the HCP9561 chain above. For all XJ550 models, use 1 per chain.
$ 1.50




HCP9562 Aftermarket standard-duty X-RING DRIVE CHAIN, 9200-pound tensile strength, x-ring style. A great quality upgraded chain. Use with the HCP9577 rivet style master link below. For all XJ550 models.
$ 98.00

HCP9577 Aftermarket standard MASTER LINK, for use with the HCP9562 chain above. For all XJ550 models, use 1 per chain.
$ 5.50




HCP9563 Aftermarket heavy-duty, nickel-plated X-RING DRIVE CHAIN, 9200-pound tensile strength, x-ring style. An ever better quality upgraded chain, as the nickel-plating makes the chain basically rust-proof. Use with the HCP9578 rivet style master link below. For all XJ550 models.
$ 109.00

HCP9578 Aftermarket heavy-duty MASTER LINK, for use with the HCP9563 chain above. For all XJ550 models, use 1 per chain.
$ 5.50




HCP9582 Aftermarket severe-duty, gold-and-black plated X-RING DRIVE CHAIN, 9800-pound tensile strength, x-ring style. The ultimate chain. Use with the HCP9583 rivet style master link below. For all XJ550 models.
$ 159.00

HCP9583 Aftermarket severe-duty MASTER LINK, for use with the HCP9582 chain above. For all XJ550 models, use 1 per chain.
$ 7.95




HCP4754 OEM chain drive system ADJUSTER or PULLER, fits either side on all XJ550 models. Neither the adjuster bolts or locknuts (listed below) are not included with this mechanism. Each:
$ 19.95

HCP4757 OEM chain driver puller ADJUSTER BOLT, for the adjuster/puller mechnism. For all XJ550 models. Use 1 per adjuster. Each:
$ 2.75

HCP2109 OEM chain driver puller ADJUSTER LOCKNUT, for the adjuster/puller mechanism bolt. For all XJ550 models. Use 1 per adjuster. Each:
$ 1.00




Rear Wheel Sprocket, Adjusters, and Hardware:

Original alloy steel or aftermarket upgraded rear wheel sprockets should be replaced every time a new chain is installed.

The original rear wheel sprocket used on all XJ550 models is either a 45-tooth, alloy-steel gear (all XJ550 models except the 1981 XJ550 Seca) or a 46-tooth gear (1981 XJ550 Seca only). Either size will fit all years and models. Aftermarket gears are also available in either a 45- or 46-tooth version, and are made from a higher quality grade of steel, case hardened, hard-chromed and hand-finished for a more durable and uniform fit and function.

A 46-tooth gear will give slightly quicker acceleration, while the 45-tooth gear allows lower engine rpm's for any given speed.

16 front and 46 rear = 2.8750-to-1 ratio (fastest acceleration)
16 front and 45 rear = 2.8125-to-1 ratio
17 front and 46 rear = 2.7059-to-1 ratio
17 front and 45 rear = 2.6471-to-1 ratio (higher top speed)

Note that the 16/46 (2.8750 ratio) combination was stock for the 1981 XJ550 Seca only, while all other XJ550 models used the slightly "slower" 16/45 (2.8125 ratio) combination for a more overall "balanced" performance (but please note that direct comparisons of gear ratios are not the entire "story", as transmission gear ratios and wheel/tire sizes also affect the final performance, but the above figures are provided just for basic comparison purposes).


HCP1759 OEM chain drive REAR WHEEL SPROCKET GEAR, 45-tooth version is correct for all XJ550 Maxim and 1982-83 XJ550 Seca models. Low-gloss black finish.
$ 67.95

HCP1767 OEM chain drive REAR WHEEL SPROCKET GEAR, 46-tooth version is correct for the 1981 XJ550 Seca models. Low-gloss black finish.
$ 84.95



HCP9568 Aftermarket chain drive standard-quality REAR WHEEL SPROCKET GEAR, 45-tooth version is correct for all XJ550 Maxim and 1982-83 XJ550 Seca models, made from an alloy steel material which is both heat treated and then zinc-plated for corrosion resistance.
$ 41.95

HCP9567 Aftermarket chain drive premium-quality REAR WHEEL SPROCKET GEAR, 45-tooth version is correct for all XJ550 Maxim and 1982-83 XJ550 Seca models, made from 1045 high-carbon steel which is both heat treated and then zinc-plated for corrosion resistance.
$ 49.95





HCP9569 Aftermarket chain drive standard-quality REAR WHEEL SPROCKET GEAR, 46-tooth version is correct for all 1981 XJ550 Seca models, made from a high-carbon alloy steel material which is both heat treated and then zinc-plated for corrosion resistance.
$ 44.95




HCP1760 OEM rear wheel sprocket gear-to-clutch hub THREADED STUD, retains the gear to the hub. Use 6 per gear, for all XJ550 models. Each:
$ 3.95

HCP1760SET6 OEM rear wheel sprocket gear-to-clutch hub THREADED STUDS, set of 6:
$ 19.95




HCP1764 OEM rear wheel sprocket gear-to-clutch hub threaded stud NUT, retains the gear to the stud. Use 6 per gear, for all XJ550 models. Each:
$ 1.25

HCP1764SET6 OEM rear wheel sprocket gear-to-clutch hub NUTS, set of 6:
$ 6.95




Chain Lubricants and Tools:

As mentioned previously, the best way to maximize the life of your drive chain is via proper and frequent lubrication. PJ1 CHAIN LUBES are generally regarded as one of the finest brand to use, what with their special formulations that are designed specifically for standard versus O- or X-ring type chains, both providing protection against moisture and rust while also providing superior lubrication.

The factory recommends a complete chain inspection, removal, cleaning, and lubrication procedure be performed every 2,000 miles.
Please refer to a factory service or aftermarket workshop manual for complete chain inspection, removal, lubrication, and chain drive system maintenance procedures and techniques.


HCP9572 Aftermarket PJ1 BLACK LABEL Chain Lube is what you'll want to use on standard (non-o-ring or x-ring) chains. Formulated for deep penetration between the side plates and the rollers and pins, it helps prevent chain stretch and the need for frequent adjustments. 6 fluid ounce size. Cannot be shipped via any air transport service nor out of the USA.
$ 6.50

HCP9573 Aftermarket PJ1 BLACK LABEL Chain Lube is what you'll want to use on standard (non-o-ring or x-ring) chains. Large family-sized 17 fluid ounce aerosol can. Cannot be shipped via any air transport service nor out of the USA.
$ 10.95



HCP9570 Aftermarket PJ1 BLUE LABEL Chain Lube is specifically designed to be safe for use on o-ring or x-ring chains. Formulated for deep penetration between the side plates and the rollers and pins, it helps prevent chain stretch and the need for frequent adjustments. 8 fluid ounce size. Cannot be shipped via any air transport service nor out of the USA.
$ 6.50

HCP9571 Aftermarket PJ1 BLUE LABEL Chain Lube is what you'll want to use on standard (non-o-ring or x-ring) chains. Large family-sized 18 fluid ounce aerosol can. Cannot be shipped via any air transport service nor out of the USA.
$ 10.95




dd2) Aftermarket drive CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOLS, needed to properly break and rivet a master link onto the replacement chains. NOTE: these tools are quite expensive to purchase for one-time use (especially the riveter tools). You may be able to find a local shop that rents the proper tools for a much more affordable price than purchasing one.


HCP9203 Aftermarket camshaft or drive CHAIN BREAKER AND RIVETER TOOL SET, comes with a complete set of 3 different size tips, press plates, all contained within a durable plastic case. A professional quality tool designed for shop use.
$ 99.95

HCP9204 Replacement 2mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 7.95

HCP9205 Replacement 3mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 7.95

HCP9206 Replacement 4mm TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 7.95

HCP9207 Replacement WEDGE RIVETING TIP for HCP9203 tool kit.
$ 7.95




HCP9201 Aftermarket drive chain GRUNGE BRUSH. This unique design brush cleans all three sides of the drive chain on one pass. Fits all chain-drive bikes (and chain sizes) via an adjustable feature. Use with your favorite solvent.
$ 14.95

HCP9201 Aftermarket drive chain Grunge Brush REPLACEMENT PADS SET, for the HCP9201 brush listed above. Set of three replacement pads.
$ 5.95

 

I see about 6000 rpm at 110 km/h but, for this type of engine, it's normal. According to the power chart, the second half of the engine power becomes available after 6000 rpm Also, you get a nice boost of torque after 7000.

 

Chacal. You are back-asswards on your sprocket info. Increasing the size of a rear sprocket will result in greater acceleration and lower top speed(higher revs at a given speed). Increasing the size of the front sprocket will result in less acceleration and higher top speeds(lower revs at a given speed). Attached link to help.

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcy ... tmath.html

 

Hey Ranger, thanks for the input........you know, I actually had it correct when I first posted it, then drank a fe beers, thought about it for a while, and went and changed it and made it backwards. I'll correct it again!

 

I see where you went wrong. You only had a few beers. I only get real smart after I've drank a whole bunch of beer!

 

Good point!

 

I know the engine can handle the high RPM's but it gets a little hard on gas.
Does any one know where I can get a smaller rear Sprocket ???
will one form another bike fit?...