my left wrist hurts

and its not from what you think.


my clutch is super hard to pull. so, in looking at the cable its fine. turns out most of the tension was coming from the clutch itself. its incredibly hard to move. is there a place where tension can be released on this movement?

 

There is a barrell adjuster on a bracket near the oil filler cap...toward the rear of the motor,and slightly inboard. Maybe this needs to be adjusted?

 

Honestly...with your avatar picture as it stands...I might have thought something..but that is far as I will go in the interest of not getting kicked off of the board...

You should be able to adjust the pull of your clutch with the small nut on the left hand control...just adjust it to where it catches in a comfortable spot and that's that..


Later,

Jon

 

get someone else to try it. second opinion. :?:

 

A bit OT,but did you ever find the grabrail and transmission cover/mechanism parts you needed?

 

thanks danno,actually, i pmd you about it about 5 hours ago to see if you still had the grabrail lying around. but i actually found someone parting out a 650 and they also have the ignition and fuel cap to all go with one key so im probably going to pick that up tonight. as far as the transmission goes. i think i might just stick to shifting backwards. im sort of used to it now.

 

hey man, thats captian funk. his outfit might be out there but sometimes you have to look as funky as you sound.

and judging by your avatar, well nevermind. i dont judge by avatars. espiceally at 23 posts. but thanks for the insight on my question, it was helpful. thats not the side of the cable that the problem is on though.

 

Agreed...he is definitely not fakin' the funk...

Later,

Jon

 

well, the thing is it seems that the tension is not in the cable. its at the arm that actually engages the clutch. it takes ALOT of force to move it. it moves about an 1/8 of an inch freely and then at the point in which the clutch is engaged the force required to move the arm gets ridiculous.

sorry if i wasnt clear in my first post.

 

This is kind of hard to explain but bear with me...

The arm that your clutch cable goes to is connected to a rod that goes into the case...if you pulled the right cover of the case off, you would see that the rod continues down to the center of the clutch mechanism...on the end of the rod is a little gear that activates the clutch itself when you apply pressure to the clutch cable/arm/rod . If these teeth had anything in them, then perhaps that would be giving you a hard time...maybe the last few teeth are boogered up or something. You would have to pull the right side cover to see.

I am sorry for the brutal explanation, hopefully someone can do a more polished job than what I have done...

Hope it helps in any case...

Jon

 

Cool. I kind of thought the reverse shifting would be a novelty AND a theft deterent.

 

thanks!

that would make sense. i guess i may have to pull off the cover tomorrow. do i have to drain the oil to pull the cover off?

 

Lube the Clutch Cable.
Put a pile of Kleenex down on the Engine end.
Take the Lever off.
One bolt. Don't lose it.
Release the Lever from the Cable.
Push the Cable-end Lead Bullet out of the Lever through the slot.
Unscrew the Cable Slack Adjuster and pull the Cable out of the Perch.

Hold the Cable and the Sheath pointing UP.
Brush some light Oil on to the Cable.
Let it run down the Cable and into the opening of the Sheath.
Keep brushing on oil until there's Oil getting on to the Kleenex.

Nice work.
Put everything together just like it came apart.
That ought to make it a bit easier to work the Clutch.
Best I can do for you.
Give it Hell!

 

Or someone might have put stiffer (IE wrong) clutch springs in the clutch basket. I've seen it done as a "cure" for clutch slip after using friction modified oils 8O

 

Re; Draining the oil--I had the same question re: my 550 Seca and someone suggested that if it's on the sidestand, it will lose very little or no oil. However, if during the course of repairs I have need to turn the rear wheel, I guess I'll find out...

 

Drain the Oil.
Don't work on the Bike with the Bike on its side stand.

People who work on Bikes with the Bike on the side stand can wind-up with a Bike on top of them real easily.

If you are on the wrong side of the Bike and the Bike moves ... its going over.

 

Check that your actuating arm is oriented correctly. There's a notch (more of a nick really...) on the arm that should line up with the spline on the housing when there's no slack. I think it puts it at roughly 8 o'clock. If that's not lined up right it could be that you don't have the mechanical advantage to pull it easily and smoothly.