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1981 Maxim XJ 650 restore project

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Glen F., May 13, 2019.

  1. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Well that was helpful. Lol
     
  2. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Well, I used some heat on the shaft. A few light taps with a hammer and out it came. I don't think it has ever been removed before. I applied a thin layer of white grease to the shaft after cleaning it up. Waiting to get a new front tire to replace the original. One day at a time.
     
  3. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Tried getting the rear wheel off tonight. I got the axel out, but the wheel won't budge. Any help would be appreciated!
     
  4. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Rubber mallet. Tap around the side of the wheel as you turn it. Not too hard.
    Drop the air pressure to help the tire clear the fender when you roll it out.

    Also, use moly grease on the splines after you clean them (and on both axles).
     
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  5. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Tomorrow is another day. I will give it a go.
     
  6. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Seeing as my bike is a shaft drive, should I be pulling the tire straight back?
     
  7. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    With the axle removed you need to move it away from the final drive unit.
    The wheel and final drive have mating splines which need to be separated, this is what K-moe suggested with the rubber mallet.
     
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  8. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    So if I understand you correctly, I am not pulling the wheel straight back, but trying to move it away from the final drive on the rear brake side.
     
  9. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    correct, move it away from the final drive, your brake plate (entire wheel) will be touching the RH side of the swingarm at that point and will drop right out.
     
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  10. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Seeing as has probably never been taken off before, would it be ok to hit it up with some PB blaster and let it sit for a while?
     
  11. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Only in the axle bore. The penetrant can't get to the splines from the outside at all, but it can help free-up the spacer. You don't want it anywhere near the brake drum (right side of the wheel).
     
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  12. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    i take the right shock off, just for some extra wiggle room
     
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  13. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Just a few dozen taps on the tire with a rubber mallet and off it came. Brakes aren't rusty at all, but going to change them up anyways. Thanks for all the help everyone! Much appreciated!!!
     
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  14. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    So after spending more than a hour in +30c heat, I can't seem to get the hub to go back in all the way. Is it possible when I was tapping out the axel, I might have pushed something into where the bearing is?
     
  15. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Tried again this morning to get the wheel back on with no luck. Any help would be fantastic.
     
  16. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    there should be a spacer coming out of the hub see if yours is out to far pull it out clean the hole lube and reinstall it is about 3 inches long
    it rests against the wheel bearing
     
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  17. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    I'll check again, but the spacer doesn't seem to go in any farther. I'll try lightly tapping it to see if it will go in any more.
     
  18. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The spacer should not need any tapping, and should not be tapped or it can deform.
    Pull it out and clean the bore with solvent.

    Getting the drive splines to line up can be a bit tricky, and that may be what's keeping the wheel from sliding into place. Wiggle it...just a little bit...
     
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  19. Glen F.

    Glen F. Active Member

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    Wiggled it...just a lot, but it went back in. Thanks for the help!!!
     
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