1981 XJ650 Midnight Maxim Restore - (Picture Heavy)

Nice work john!!

Tis a shame about the side covers, but keep your eyes open and im sure a set will pop up for a reasonable price im sure.

Looking good!

By the way, what exause pipes are those? I like the look of them!

-Chris

 

Sharp John ... Sharp !

 

Thanks Chris!

I know there is a set on here another member asked me to make an offer on, and I am sure I will be doing that as soon as I figure out if it is in the budget.

The exhaust is the ONLY set you can even find (or so I discovered). It is the MAC 4-into-2 exhaust system for all 650 Maxims.

I do have a few gripes about the kit though. First off, each side is two welded parts, a pair of headers down to a joining member and then the mufflers. This means you can NOT use the OEM exhaust header brackets. Instead they give you these two simple chromed plates to bolt the exhaust on with.. MUCH cheaper looking than Yamaha's OEM brackets.

Secondly there is only ONE bracket built on underneath the left side muffler for a center stand stop, and it does NOT include (or even offer a way to mount) a rubber pad. The kickstand ALWAYS slams into the exhaust when put up unless you guide it up carefully with your foot, and even then it will STILL bounce off the exhaust on a bump or rough terrain.

The center stand stop is only a welded angled section of metal maybe 3/4-inch (2cm) front to back and about 1.25 inch (3cm) across. As I said there is no way to add a rubber stop to it, so like the kickstand you ALWAYS have to baby it up after tipping the bike off the center stand.

Other than that it is a clean fit, nice mount, and quiet exhaust.

 

Looking good man! Nice work all around. I hope to get mine up to that level eventually. Probably be a nice project for next winter.
How she running now that you redid the carbs?

 

Well to answer your question, I have not attempted to start the bike. There is no oil in her and I just finished adjusting my valves and now they are all in spec! Clearances are as follows:

Cyl: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4
In: .127 | .152 | .152 | .127
Out: .178 | .203 | .203 | .203
Shim/in: 265 | 265 | 265 | 260
Shim/Out: 260 | 270 | 250 | Unknown

I don't know the exact measurement of the shim for the cylinder 4 exhaust valve. The shim number is completely worn off the back of the shim, but it is in spec so I decided to leave it alone. I have a few spare shims to compare it to so I can figure out what shim it is.

The first cylinder exhaust valve could probably use a 265 seeing as how it is BARELY a .178 clearance. I can't tell if there is a lip on the edge of my feeler gauge blade or not - the .178mm blade has more resistance than usual but then slides in and moves freely between the shim and cam. The .152mm blade seems to slide in and feels slightly loose.. any input anyone has would be greatly appreciated.

Waiting on a gas cap from Len before I can start tuning the carbs - safety FIRST. Speaking of fuel delivery, I re-coated the interior of the fuel tank, so now I will have a rust-free tank AND a much lower risk of foreign particles from inside the tank making their way into the carbs and mucking them up.

 

An update including today's first ride

So after a couple days delay I have a progress report!

My order from Len came in Friday on time as always and exactly the parts I needed. I also got my side cover from Dave F (hogfiddles).

Over the weekend I had the opportunity to touch up the paint (chips from putting the engine in, painting the new side panel, etc). I also got my new brake lines on and bled, my new gas cap installed and the tank filled, and finished a carb bench sync - float levels, idle adjustments.

Starting led to the discovery that I definitely need a new battery. I did finally get the bike to start, and she sounds like she is running a bit rich. A vacuum sync is still needed - I am trying to find someone local who has a vacuum sync tool and a colortune tool so I can finish tuning her.

Also ran into an issue with starting the bike - she does not want to start on her own. Spark is good (with the assistance of a battery charger/jump assist at 10 amps) and she cranks. Valve clearances are in spec, float levels are in spec (confirmed twice to be sure) but she just doesn't want to fire up. I set a ceramic heater under the engine to try and warm it up some, but the engine still won't start without quick start shot into the vacuum ports.

Once I did get the bike started, the engine wouldn't idle around 1050 rpm. At 2k rpm the engine tends to idle for a second or two then drops down to 1750 rpms and right back up to 2k again. I took her out for a nice ride (the first in four months) and response was sluggish. The exhaust definitely doesn't sound right, yadda yadda. After the bike is warm, she starts back up - but only when the bike is hot (within 10 minutes of stopping after a 20 minute ride).

So tomorrow will result in a new battery and hopefully the acquisition of a vacuum gauge set and colortune spark plug kit. This weekend I should be able to get a better grip on where the bike stands and how she runs.

As always, here are some pictures:


Relocated the control for my heated gloves to the top of the MC:

The new gold tank trim courtesy of Len and XJ4Ever:

Fresh engine side cover paint:

The freshly repainted side panel compliments of Dave F (hogfiddles):

And the original panel that came with the bike for the left side:

Got a bit creative with my camera angles here..

And another creative shot. This side of the tank is where the huge dent was that I had to fill with Bondo. The tank is pretty dirty here from leaning on it, but if you look closely you can see a few spots I didn't sand down enough:

And as always you can all view the full album on Picasa here.

 

Hey John,

Bike is looking REALLY good. I finally got some paint and clear coat for my parts and almost have them all done. After that I can start my reassembly. I have one order coming in from Len right now and one more to make. I need some filters and spark plugs and maybe a new battery. I might try to get those here in Canada for shipping quickness though. Are you planning on trying to get it back to stock with original pipes and such?

 

Bobby,

I considered going back to stock pipes, but for now these ones are staying on the bike. It really hurt having to spend $400 on this set, and I searched for two months straight to find aftermarket ones. I would LOVE to go back to the OEM look of the stock ones, but I am concerned about the reliability and longevity of replacing with a set of used pipes. The alternative is far too pricey for me - I wouldn't know where to find OEM NEW ones and even if I did the pipes would probably cost WAY more than the bike is worth, and they would be way out of budget for me. That being said, if I found a set of exhaust pipes in good shape for cheap, I would absolutely consider jumping on them.

In relation to the pipes, the ones on the bike now are FAR from ideal. The plates that connect the headers to the head are cheap looking and wimpy compared to the stock header clamps. I have been trying to figure out a workaround to mount my stock clamps onto the aftermarket pipes, but that is difficult since the 1+2 and 3+4 headers are welded at their bases.

On a side note, you should start a thread on here for your bike - post up pictures, progress, etc. for your bike and keep it updated. Share with us what you are doing and get feedback on your exact project. Len is great for parts, but a thread opens you up for feedback you didn't expect. I wouldn't have gotten my hands on my replacement side panel after I accidentally baked mine out of shape without this thread, after all!

 

Hey, that cover came out really nice. Can't wait to see it on the bike.

Dave F

 

Hey John,

I do have a thread going for my bike. Its just that progress has been that slow that I havn't had the chance to post anything new in it.

Check it out

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... rt=15.html

 

Oh and for your pipes all you would have to do is find a set of XJ pipes and paint them black. Post something in the sell, swap, trade section. Im sure some one has something they can get rid of. Seeing that I have 2 XJ650s I will have to mix and match the exhaust systems from the 2 to make a complete one. Im not to concerned about them last or not. As long as the parts I use are in good shape. Even if you had to "build" your own that wouldn't be too bad.

 

Ask and here it is:



So today I picked up a new properly sized battery and two sets of spark plugs. I also decided to pull the ones that have been in the bike for a year and examine them. Here is the evidence of the past year's riding, including a run from over the weekend totaling about 45 minutes to an hour on the road:

Order: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4


And label dots below each plug in the following pictures:




The 1 and 2 plugs are roughly the same color, but 3 looks to be running a bit rich and 4 is way lean. Please let me know what your input is on plug color and which seem closest to a proper fuel mixture (if any).

I have TWO new sets (both with gaps properly set) and a new battery installed, so I plan on doing a vacuum sync and heating the engine up with one set. I think I can pull the plugs and get a general idea where the fuel mixtures stand and how the engine performs, then use the second set to do my plug chop. In the end I will have a new set of plugs for use this year AND a backup set / new set for next year. Any input on how effective this method will be?

 

John,

I'll share what I've learned recently... First (and I can rightly hear Fitz now), I assume you've gapped those shims.

Second, I am not sure you can tell what's going on by pulling old plugs -- the colors reflect the last few minutes of their use -- so if you were idleing for an extended period they can be darker or black. Not much use... you want to pull 'em under controlled circumstances.

Therefore, I would leave those old plugs in and go for a 30 minute ride some of it hard... Come home, and while NOT letting it cool, THEN put on the Vac guages of your choice, but heck for like $60 bucks you can get a 4-guage dial set -- Synch all... Then -- Leave the guages on, and mixture tune so they are all in the same relative spot -- I can't coach you on tuning w/out a color tune -- there are other posts about listening carefully and screwing them in then out, etc. listening to the motor change, but I was unable to do the Vulcan Mind Meld with my bike to get inside her head for this method to have worked for me -- I just didn't trust the sounds I was hearing... So, I just bought one color tune... Using Color Tune, find yellow then turn in to find white and set the screw "between" these two points (generally yellow to white occurs within 1 revolution).

Then since you've left the synch guages on - double check -- they may have moved a whisker.

Now, leave those old junk plugs in and put into your pocket your 8 new plugs (2 sets) and your socket wrench and go for another 20 minute or so ride, some of it hard...

Then pull over in your selected safe stretch shut her down and put in the new plugs -- Then using same safe stretch, make several runs and chops starting with "top end" if you safely can (wot, 3rd ok, then chop) -- if not, then do 5.5k chops and do several -- to inspect color -- you will likely see a decent off-white with a hint of brown -- that's good... If not, well you'll have to figure out what to do... here's one: http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune ... nes.html#1. Top end (full throttle / 7.5k to redline

good too -- note nothing new here -- these have been posted before: http://www.johnsmotorcycleparts.com/Kei ... g_tips.htm

Then pull those plugs out and put in the second new set and do several 3k chops... see color... do a 4k chop -- see color -- leave that set in -- go home pull in to garage and do not allow extended idel - shut her down and pull plugs -- inspect -- how do they compare to you chops on the road ? This last will give an indication of very lowest end...

Go from there... there more you "chop and look" the more you learn -- I have done maybe 20 chops to date under various conditions...

HINT: my first few were done with my bike insufficienly warmed up and all bikes run lean(er) when cool and rich(er) when "hotter"

Hope this helps

p.s. O h and put some anti-sieze on those rusty things -- and on the new ones -- makes all the chopping and in and out safer -- don't over tighten just snug is OK -- Chopping is a lot of "in and out and up and down..." you should enjoy

 

I think you have that backwards.....They run richer when cooler, and leaner when hotter.

Dave F

 

My esteemed colleauge from the north, I am sorry to respectfully disagree, but (I believe) you are not correct.

From the tuning articles, and confirming what I've learned through chop and "feel" experience:

Example #1: If the engine has a "wet" rhythmic, soggy area at full throttle / 3k-4k rpm, that gets worse as the engine heats up, lower the fuel level (i.e. too rich) by resetting the float height 1mm greater (if the original was 13mm - go to 14mm). This will lower the fuel level, making full throttle / 2k-3k rpm leaner.

Example #2: If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the main jet is too large.

Example #3: Decide if you are rich or lean. Worse hot: Symptom of rich. Worse cold: Symptom of lean.

Please also reference post -- middle of the page here:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... tml#312623

p.s. I believe that the reason engines run leaner cold, richer hot is atomization of the fuel... when cold, larger droplets are at play without complete burn, when hot, the fuel more completely atomizes with a more complete (i.e. richer) burn. Blip the throttle within the first 10 seconds of starting -- you'll often get a sudden lean hesitation or lean a backfire

 

Hey, that cover looks good on there! I'd strongly suggest that you keep looking for a good set of the shiney gold airbox covers, and the the shiney gold swingarm pivot covers. But for now, those will do

Dave F

 

I agree with Dave on the shiny parts. Im going to keep mine original until I can find some NOS or like new ones.

 

Been thinking about that actually haha. I did this gold because it was readily available, but the tank trim makes it look dark and dull. I have to fill in the body panels and final drive / brake cover accents gold too still, so there is a good chance that gold tone will change.

Also interested in clarification on the rich / lean fuel mixture topic. I will be tuning today and this weekend so clarification there would be greatly appreciated.

If anyone has a good resource for a walk-through of how to fine tune fuel mixtures at various RPMs I would be interested in that too.

 

Okay so update on getting her started, and it doesn't look good. First off, valve clearances are all in spec, float levels are dead on, idle adjustment screws 2.5 turns out, carbs bench synced, spark plugs new and properly gapped yet the bike won't fire up.

So I pulled out the multimeter and checked the resistance of the coils. Bingo, we have a problem.

Primary resistances all 7-10 ohms.
Secondary all registering around 23 M ohms.

Double checked and confirmed. Confirms 30 year old coils are in need of replacement.

Here is my question now: What are my options for aftermarket coils? I don't mind building a bracket or harness for them, I am just hoping to get the coils SOON and CHEAP, but I don't want to get bargain/used ones that won't last or will kill my TCI.

 

John, see the decisions and procedures I went through here (middle page):
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... art=0.html

Just as an added precaution -- all plugs into tower loaded up w/Dielectric Greas, boots over plugs, then as an added precaution, I zip-tied (tight cinch) the boots to the cables and to tower to create a tight seal.

And in dealing with the horn, here (bottom page):
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... rt=30.html

And, chopping tuning advice I posted prior page here for you.

Hope these help, all worked for me (by the way, before I put in the new coils, bike would not start after a "hose down" wash -- last Sunday, took the bike to a "power-spray" car wash, and shot the entire motor/wheels, everything... to get all of that new brake dust off the inner-2 cylinder heads, and other places deep in the motor. I thought to myself: "Oh boy I'm gonna be stuck here till this all dries out..." -- however, FIRED right up all wet - no hesitation)