1981 XJ650H; How can I remove these front pegs?

In the process of removing stripped hex bolts on the left side cover, I couldn't fit my tools past the front peg. After inspecting it, it looks like the only obvious way to remove it is through this perfectly circular bolt and washer..?




I have no idea what tool I'd need/how to loosen that. The only other obvious way to remove it seems to be undoing the entire triangle frame but common sense tells me that cant be it and Im missing something.


Thank you for any help!

 

That is a rivet that holds the peg on. Proper way to remove it is unfortunately removing the triangular aluminum pieces as you suspect

 

Drill dimpled end till end is removed then take a drift and a hammer tap it out , be careful there is a spring in there between peg and bracket. Too replace get a clevis pin from ACE hardware or your nearest hardware store and a cotter pin . The whole bracket can be removed but goes thru frame is a little bit difficult . The advantage of removing rivet and replacing with a clevis pin is you can replace peg if you find one in better shape.

 

Darn, really!? From what I saw both sides of the triangular mount is connected with a huge inbetween rod, so I cant just take one off... I have to take both off, and I believe the exhaust was connected to the triangular mounts too.. jeez.

Thanks anyway, guess Ill have to get to it tomorrow afternoon.

 

The footpeg is attached to the footpeg mount with that rivet.
The bolt that holds the footpeg mount to the frame also holds the rear of the engine to the frame. You will need to support the underside of the engine to get the bolt out, and use a torque wrench for re-installation (set to 50.6 foot pounds). I'd expect some rust to be present, so a good penetrating oil (not WD-40) should be applied, and a brass drift may be needed as well; to break the engine mount bolt free and push it out.
The rear triangular mounts (passenger footpeg mounts) do have to be removed, along with the exhaust system.


Now back to the cover screws. The footpeg does not have to be removed to get the cover off, but I can see how having it out of the way would help since the head of that lower-rear screw is stripped out.
Before going to all the trouble of removing the footpeg, use a Torx wrench (they can be bought as an L shaped single-bit just like Allan keys can). Pick one that's just a tad bigger than the hex socket, and drive it in with a few hammer taps.

 

Just cut the old rubber off and paint mounts and install new rubbers

 

He's trying to remove the shift cover, not the peg rubbers. They do need to be replaced though.

 

Thanks for the idea.. I was planning on using a dremel to turn it into a flathead, thats what I've done with a few other stripped screws, then just replace it with a new hex screw after. I think Ill try your solution first.

On a side note, should I be using some Japanese hex keys or anything for this bike? I've got the JIP screw drivers, but Im just using a standard hex key I already had, I might be using a slightly too small hex key and stripping stuff because of it.

 

No big deal pulling engine bolt to remove pegs.

 

When I was removing my clutch cover for what seemed like a regular basis earlier this year, i loosened the engine mount bolt that the footpeg mounts are attached to and simply rotated it up and out of the way to get to the bolt(s) I needed to get at. Although I will definitely keep the advice you have been given on hand as I could really use some replacement footpegs and now have a good way to go about it.

 

Hex keys are standardized differently. You won't need anything special; just normal metrics.
JIS is actually a set of standards for fasteners. The only JIS fasteners that differ from commonly avaialble tools are the crosshead screws.

 

Make sure you are using metric Allen wrenches . The type with ball end might help for a screw that is slightly wallered out. The other thing to try is valve lapping compound it helps to get a grip on stripped head of fasteners, we used this on the aircraft all the time.

 

+1 supreglue can be of benefit as well. Degrease first.
But by the photo, I thing that cap screw is beyond those options. Worth trying first though, since using a torx wrench will damage the wrench ( I have an old set that I just use for this situation).

 

Nobody laugh too hard, I was using imperial hex wrenches, purchased an extra long metric set with handles to slip by the pegs and it twisted right out.

 

If you aren't making mistakes you aren't working.