1982 XJ550 Maxim rebuild

Keep it up! Brings back memories, I went through all the same stuff. Took me two years to rebuild everything but I ended up with a solid reliable bike. And I will again.

 

Electrical continues. Headlight buffed up great. Replaced the missing orange insert for stop/run toggle. Flashers on LH circuit work, not on right. Horn works, tail and plate lights are fine. Paint on the signal control assembly did not cure to my liking. Going to disassemble it all again, strip and recoat. Once the paint cures new stickers for all OE modules will be ordered from chacal. The starter button may have to be replaced. I plastic welded a set of retaining nubs where the "brim" broke off. Works for final engine testing at this point. I still have a rear shock to disassemble and buff and balance the rear wheel assembly.

 

Electrical is coming together. Battery that was sold to me is about 1" too tall to fit in the box, gotta buy yet another battery. All signals work with the cluster indicator. Starting circuit lights up the oil light but still can't get the solenoid to click. The engine ignition relay works fine. Had to replace leads on one of the bulb holders and re-solder another due to corrosion. Just need some lens gaskets and a lens screw to finish the signals. Two of the fuse clips broke and one is not springy enough to keep good contact causing heating. Looks like I may be pulling and rebuilding the fuse block now.

 

for safety sake, replace that big battery with a 2A charger

 

That's only connected sometimes for voltage levels since I have stuff left on for a while in the garage while I'm testing. The small battery gets charged off the bike.

 

Can someone verify which harness segment the oil switch is on for the 550 maxim? I have hooked up everything except the coils and oil switch. I do not see another female bullet connector with a brown wire anywhere. I get the oil light on the cluster when the start button is pressed but still can not activate the starter solenoid. I thought it was wired directly into the brown on the power regulator but it does not exit as a bullet connector. I have 3 unconnected housings and no additional parts for them.

 

oil switch wire is a ground wire .it hooks to the oil level switch and when your low on oil the switch closes making the oil light come on. it should not prevent you from starting bike.
it does run from under bike and up rear of motor.
I will go look for where it connects into harness

 

oil switch looks like a white wire sheathed in a black tube by its self runs up back of motor to behind tool tray. it connects to a black/red wire single connector . it is located on the branch of the wire harness that goes to battery( large red insulation). near a white connector with 2 wires one of the wires is green in the 2 position connector. you should see a black/red wire or 2 in the diode block connector

 

I got it sorted out. Oil light still won't go out, though, even if I use a ground. Switch tests fine. I'm missing the starter interrupt relay under the tank. I also am not exactly sure where the mounting tab is for it since the headlight relay and cancellor are already mounted and there are no free tabs. Anyway, if I jump R/W across it the solenoid clicks. Neutral and brake circuits all work so I just gotta fix the last relay and get the engine done.

 

look at the diode block

oil switch should read open when tested and closed when you drain oil
.
diode and resistor are in diode block. circled diode connects to L/W wire of the solenoid and makes ground when starter button is pushed
R/W wire above oil light connects to run/kill switch

when oil goes low oil level switch closes making ground turning on light B/R wire connects the switch to diode block.

is light on when oil switch is disconnected from connector at harness?

Starter/Ignition cut-off relay (no color): front of coil rear mounting bracket.

 

wiring diagram

 

Caliper is done. Ordered an OE pad kit for it. One of the pads has cracked and eroded material. I'll juice it up this weekend and see what leaks.
The pressure seal was super tight but after some encouragement it slid right in. The dust seal was a major PITA to install with it rolling or pinching the wiper ribs. Overall, that piston rebuild kit from eBay sold by Power House is very nice and complete. Good quality parts and shipping was faster than expected, even via mail.

 

Ya good call on the old pucks, they looked in bad shape. Looks good with new parts hope nothing leaks and you are good to go.

 

One is OK but the other is trashed. I am going to check the spare disc I have and get it turned if there is enough metal. The one on there now is OK but has a few ridges I can feel. Best to turn one of them down when the new pads come in so it wears in evenly.

 

That is one of way of doing it, looks good for what you used.

 

I looked for a low-profile ATM spade to spade pad but couldn't find one. ATM may have worked but most were 12V+ post to single fuse spade terminal. The harness needs to be set up as individual fuse circuits so I just grabbed a bulk bag of these inline ATM holders and had all of about $5 in the setup. Easy to move around if needed for fuse replacement, will lay flat. Extra moisture resistance with the caps.

Front brake is juiced up and holds solid now with the piston rebuild done. Checked the rotor again and the disc surface feels fine so I'm going with it as-is. Used a Mighty-Vac bleeder but still ended up making a huge mess. . Eventually I'll swap stainless lines, but the rubber lines feel solid for now. Still gotta buy 4 ring packs and potentially another head gasket so, the lines can wait.

 

I normally go with these as they are cheap and normally you can hide them away in the same place.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI-IHauc6l4wIVwlcNCh2ShASQEAQYASABEgKRWPD_BwE

 

I've used those on other projects, they're OK if your push terminals a good quality. I also have used ones that have built-in open circuit LEDs for each fuse. The in-line holders gave me more freedom to use the existing wiring without damaging it. If I decide to restore the OEM fuse box I still can. I may do that later with LP-ATM or ATM sockets, keeping the OEM labels and fuse cover.

 

Seat cover pulled off, foam and pan is in great condition. Cover is split at the passenger riser panel. Double-stitch sewn back together as best as I could(my fingers gave up end of the second run). Reinforced with some new vinyl and some 3M yellow contact glue to take stretch tension off the stitches.