1982 XJ650 Maxim Accel Super Coil conversion pics

To no surprise, my factory coils finally gave me enough headaches. They were cracked real bad and the bike would take forever to start (if at all) and ran like crap. If I tried to start it on a cold damp morning forget about it! So I decided to bite the bullet and buy some new coils. I chose to go with the Accel Super Coil kit over the Dyna coils that I see most people using on these bikes. The kit (part #140403) was around $160 shipped, purchased on Amazon. The kit came with all boots and ample length plug wires that I cut to size. Obviously I couldn't just mount them in place of the original coils, so I got creative. Just figured I'd share some pics with everyone and show how I mounted them without any special adapter brackets or anything. I drilled through the frame and through-bolted them with some M6 bolts & nuts. I cut the turn signal relay bracket off, ground the weld flush and just stuffed the relay up out of the way. To be honest, I have not yet tried fitting the tank on yet as it's currently in the stages of being repainted, nor have I tested them to make sure I have spark (need to buy a battery) but the way everything is set up I am confident that they will work and the tank will slide on no problem.

 

welcome to the forum, that looks like a nice clean mod.

FU

 

I actually joined a few years ago, but hadn't been on in a while so I assume my old account was deleted due to inactivity.

 

Not sure that drilling thru the frame in 2 places is the best idea, but hopefully it doesn't cause any problems!

 

Drilling through the frame and leaving just holes is no bueno. I'd redo that by drilling larger holes and welding in bushings. This will do two very important things; 1. it will retain frame rigidity in that area. 2. it will close the frame tubes to moisture intrusion (the inside of the frame tubing is bare steel and prone to rusting out).

It looks like you have non-resistor wire caps. Be sure to run resistor plugs now, or get some resistor caps from NGK.

Are you sure that the valve cover will clear the nuts for the coil mounts? If it doesn't you can weld in a undersized bushing and tap it so you won't need to use any nuts, or have anything protruding below the frame tubes.

 

The way the frame is designed, I didn't think drilling a few small holes in the given location would really impact the overall rigidity of the frame enough (for me at least) to worry about it. However it is true that it may not be wise to condone such hackery, so DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS!! Also yes the moisture-in-frame thing is an issue that I did overlook, I may end up running with that bushing idea in the near future. As for resistance, I wasn't aware I needed it. I'll pick up a set of resistor plugs for it, could anyone recommend a good plug to run? These are 3 ohm resistance coils.

 

Nice job

 

I not sure if anyone is looking at this post any longer but the two holes drilled and filled with bots and nuts tighten as not to deform the tube will not have any negative affect on the frame. As far as rust is concerned you won't live long enough to worry about it.
I not sure were these guy got there engineering degrees but maybe they should go back for a refresher course.
Cheers
Design and engineering instructor.

 

I plan on passing the bike down to my great-grandchildren; rust is an issue in the frame tubes of the XJ series (particularly the lower left engine cradle tube).
Cheers.
Been wrenching since I was 5, welding since I was 11, am the son of a machinist, the brother of a mechanical/ production engineer. and agree that your method will work; it just isn't best practice.

BTW; throwing insults with your first post will not get you much standing in this particular community.

 

I like the mount location. Curious as to how well they work...anyone have any pics or info on their Dyna Coil set up vs. the Accel?

 

K-moe
So sorry for offending you.
I will refrain myself in the future.
My X did not like it either. I am OK with being her X.
I understand you have your point of view. I have mine. Will try to be more sensitive in the future with my words.
I agree to becarefull of rust having dealt with tube frame cars such as Lotus 7 and now vintage formula cars. I am involved with sanctioning bodies for vintage racing including tube frame cars and helping to create tec testing methods and rules as to do with safe practices . I have heard your side before as it concerns this issue and the "math" does not prove out for it to be a weak point to show a need for concern.
Please remember as you objected to his method in an aggressive manor I was objecting to your opinion in the same way.
I read this "stuff" often and wonder
well I just wonder why.
So remember I am JUST another nobody living no were.
Cheers.

 

Oh
This is why I don't usually say much on these forums. They are so much like what car clubs use to be like in the good old days. Of which I was an involved and respected member of many.
Cheers

 

They will both throw a san

Saying that something is no bueno is hardly being agressive. This is the only thread that I recal ever having addressed drilling holes into the frame.

I do welcome the presence of an engineer, but ya think you could have maybe written a better first post

 

Speaking of drilling through the frame, last night I went to remove the crash bars on my bike and they're held on via long bolts that go through the frame. Is that standard or something the PO would have done?

 

K-moe

I am an engineer not good with human relations. So.
Just keep smiling. Life is to short!
We all have room for improvement.
I have no more to say on this subject.
Peace out
Tobin

 

Bike runs like a champ. Even on a cold dark morning after sitting for 3 weeks it fires right up. Definitely was a wise investment in my case.

 

i think you should get the camera out

 

While it appears to be a clean mod yamaha engineering tabbed everything off the frame for a reason. But I'm no hater, if ThatDude likes it...

Gary H.

 

Awesome! As far as the mounting point, do what you have to do, I'm going to safely assume this isn't a race bike or pulling anything abnormally heavy. If you're keeping the bike awhile (more than 10-20 years) maybe close off the hole drilled by welding the appropriate tubing through said hole you cut... but rustolium to cover the fresh cut should be totally cool. Plus, funny, I'm noticing people banter to banter...all good info in the end, just take what u need, leave the rest.