1982 XJ650 Maxim Build

I don't use the YICS tool......I have one----somewhere. I don't know where it is----don't really care other than that its brand new and still In the package.

 

Equal on all gauges. You can't compare to a guide that's written for automobiles (heat riser was the giveaway). The lower vaccum numbers are because of the YICS ports. You effectively have three small vacuum leaks at each carb, but that's on purpose.

Can't remember; you did check valve clearances?

 

Yep did the valves they were all out before. So as long as they are equal doesn't matter the number.

 

Correct.

 

I have another question while I'm thinking about it. It it normal for the XJ to have "indexed steering"? I have noticed that the steering kind of snaps to center. Never had a bike that did this before.

 

Not good. Your steering stem bearings need to be serviced/replaced.

The 'notch' is due to 1 of 2 things:''

1. The balls have sat in one position for so longs that they have created 'dimples' in the races

2.. The balls haven't created 'dimples', but the great has hardened and there are dimples and ripples in the caked up grease.

If you're lucky, you can clean the races and the balls, and re-use. But the reality is, that if you're in there, then the best thing would be to pull the races and install tapered bearings. You'll never need to replace those again......

 

Put the bike on the center stand. Put about 50 pounds of weight on the seat so the front wheel is off the ground. Center the bars; they should stay in place. Lightly press the end of one bar with your index finger: they should flop to the opposite side quickly. There should be no "notchiness" when you move the bars.
I strongly suspect that you are in dire need of new headstock bearings. Chacal has the correct set of roller bearings in stock. You could also replace with the OEM set if you like (but the rollers are better).

 

I did this test and the bars flopped over with no problems or notchiness. I guess I'm just not used to a bike having the bars stay in place in the center. When ever you lifted the wheel on my Harley off the ground the bars would automatically flop to the left. I'm going to ride it a while and see how they feel and maybe look into replacing the head bearings down the road.

 

So I re-visited the carb synch today. Got them all even at around 8.5 inches whatever that means.

IMG_1549 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr



Also got my new clutch lever in from chacal and got that installed. I may have an issue with the clutch though. I tried pulling the clutch and popping it in gear and it pops right into gear but the tire immediately starts spinning, I have the adjuster almost all the way out for the most pull on the lever and it seems like it's not disengaging the clutch.

 

The rear wheel will spin with the engine running and the clutch pulled in. The oil spins the plates just like in a torque converter.

She's sounding sweet now.

When you say that the bike snaps back to center, is this you steering quickly (it is a sportier bike than even a Sportster), or does it take a bit of effort to turn just a bit (like a lane change) and then want to snap back?

 

No it doesn't snap back, it will stay to which side you turn it. I can push it over with one finger to move it off center, just never had a bike that held center before. Hell I might as well go ahead and change over to the tapered bearings while it's still winter and never have to worry about them again. Just sucks I already put the front end back together and now I have to take it back apart. Probably go ahead and order clutch plates too since I don't know what kind of oil the po used and they have been sitting half dry for years.

 

21.59 cm

 

0.042929293 rod

 

I meant when you're riding.

Mine held center easily while riding (not a good thing) instead of self-centering by gyroscopic action (it feels different). I found very lightly notched bearing races when I tore the front end down.

 

I think they were bad. I went ahead and tore them apart to do a visual.

IMG_1551 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1552 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1556 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

You can defiantly see little groves where the balls were sitting in the races. New All Balls tapered bearings are on order, along with new friction plates and springs for the clutch.

 

Yep. notched and knackered. Not being re-greased for 30 years is what causes most of that. Nobody bothered to do the required maintainance.

 

So I got my bearings in today and put the new All Balls tapered bearings in. Put everything back together and wow is it a lot smoother than before. There is not notch at center and the bars move effortlessly.

IMG_1566 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1567 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

You can see the frost on the stem as I put it in the freezer this morning for easy install.
IMG_1565 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1569 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

Also put the rear fender back on after paint.
IMG_1573 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

And wired up my new gauges.

Heres the diode splice for the turn signals.
IMG_1561 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr
IMG_1562 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

Soldered the wires onto the factory connectors
IMG_1563 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

End result
IMG_1572 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

Looks nice! Personally I would ditch the goofy (IMHO) switch cover and get a nice chrome bolt for the stem.

 

Got my front fender, tank, and covers put on. Decided to ride down the street since it's so nice today. She runs good, I do notice a hesitation down between 2-3k but after that she wakes up and pulls nicely. Do these bikes have a Rev limiter and if not what's the redline?

 

There is a mechanical rev-limiter; a valve dropping into the cylinder, or a connecting rod letting loose.

The rev limit is 9,500 RPM (see the pics of your original tach).

There should not be any hesitation at any RPM. You should have a smooth and docile engine below 5,000 RPM, and a hard-pulling monster above that.
What air filter are you using?
Is the intake snorkel in the airbox lid?