1982 XJ750 Seca Starter Clutch Part Numbers

Hi, I'm looking to replace the starter clutch on my 1982 750 Seca. I was looking at the Caltric starter clutch on eBay. It lists 1982-1983 Maxim and 1981 and 1983 Seca but doesn't mention the 1982 Seca. I looked at the Yamaha OEM part numbers and they are different for those years.
1982 Seca OEM Part Number: 31A-15580-00-00
1981 and 1983 Seca OEM Part Number: 4H7-15580-10-00
Would this starter clutch still work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291466910577
Thanks!

 

@Jetfixer got a starter clutch but l don't know if it was Caltric. Did you ask the seller on suitability for your machine?

 

I haven’t yet. I thought 1981-1983 750 Seca/Maxim engine parts were mostly interchangeable.

 

They will be l think.

 

As far as I can tell from looking at the component part numbers, the difference between the two starter clutch assemblies is the springs.

Also, the 31A frame code seems to point to an 83 Euro XJ900, which seems to me would probably have beefier springs(??)

Maybe for some reason they used the 31A assembly in the 82 model?? Testing? Needed to make enough of that part number to achieve economy of scale?? Who knows?

All that being said, if it works for an 81 and 83, then it should work for an 82. In my opinion.

 

The 31A starter clutch hub unit is for XJ700, XJ750-X, and XJ900 models, and will interchange with the XJ650 and all of the air-cooled XJ750 models.....and as Dan mentioned, it has stiffer springs than the garden-variety 650/750 hubs......if you're going to replace the starter clutch, that is the one to use. Make sure to also check (or just go ahead and replace it while you're in there) the primary chain GUIDE, too. And check the condition of the primary CHAIN, which is hard to do visually, but if you remove the primary chain OIL SPRAY NOZZLE (access is from behind the alternator rotor) and observe the tip of it, if it appears to have been "shaved" a bit, then that means the primary chain has stretched enough to start flopping around and is an indication that the chain needs replacement.

Be aware that there are high-quality versions of this starter clutch and some that are not up to OEM quality. .....and you don't really want to do this job more than once!

And be aware that the starter clutch may not even need replacing:

STARTER CLUTCH REBUILD PARTS:

sms6) OEM and aftermarket parts to rebuild your STARTER MOTOR CLUTCH DRIVE. Yamaha used a "centrifugal clutch" type of drive system to engage and disengage the starter motor drive from the engine:



and over time the springs, spring caps, and roller pins that provide the engagement action can fail....which is terrible, as these are a real pain to replace, and always requires the dis-assembly of the upper and lower engine cases:

http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj750-engine-removal-and-split-pictures.38545


However, there are a few alternative methods that might (or might not) save you some incredible effort and allow you to "dodge a bullet" and repair your starter clutch system in an easier manner; but, the success of such methods really depends upon whether the clutch failure is due to mechanical wear or damage to the pins, caps, or springs (in which case, you MUST somehow get in there and replace those items), or, if the caps and pins are merely "seized" in the starter clutch hub due to accumulated varnish and sludge, etc.----and in such a situation, then you might be able to clean out the mess and restore the clutch to an operational condition.

Methods a) and b) below address the problem of "sludge-seized" component pieces. Method c) deals with the problem of damaged parts. Note that if any of the major components are damaged---the clutch hub, or any idle gears or sprockets---then the engine is going to have to come out and taken apart to allow access to such larger pieces.

a) Pull the starter motor.....or, even better, the alternator shaft housing.......and shoot lots of solvent (seafoam, carb or brake cleaner, etc.) directly onto and into the Starter Clutch Assembly. Then, drain all of your engine oil and refill with fresh oil. Run the engine while on the centerstand until it's warmed up, drain the oil again, and fill with fresh oil. If the starter clutch was just sticking, this method may wash away enough of the accumulated gunk and set you on your way.

b) Next, it may be necessary to actually run a solvent in with the engine oil in an attempt to loosen any engine oil sludge that has accumulated over time, and locked the starter clutch roller pins. Of course, such solvent should be run in the engine with the bike on the centerstand, and not any under load!!! Then drain and flush this solvent-and-oil mixture, refill with fresh oil-only, run on the centerstand again, and then drain and refill with fresh oil-only again......now you can ride it again. You want to make DARNED SURE that you get all of the solvent-saturated oil out of the crankcase before you put the engine under load, and risk chewing up engine bearings, etc. with solvent-thinned oil!


AND, be aware that a failing battery and/or a starter motor with a shorted winding or excessive carbon build-up on the commutator, or even burnt contacts in the starter solenoid, can reduce current to the starter motor to a point where it can't produce enough torque upon the starter clutch, and thus mimic starter clutch failure symptoms (that "bag of rocks" sound and an engine that doesn't turn over), so be sure to eliminate those as potential problems before digging into your engine!

www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/a-handy-guide-to-not-rebuilding-your-slipping-starter-clutch.130438


ALSO, TAKE NOTE OF THIS EXPERIENCE FROM ANOTHER XJ-OWNER:

"If there is not enough grip between the plunger and the roller, it can skip, causing the grinding, clacking noises you hear. I have been told by a Yamaha mechanic with over 20 years experience that it is very possible for some synthetics to greatly increase the chances that this will occur......"

So this weekend I drained the synthetic out, put some cheap 20W50 in, and rode it for a little while. Then I drained the cheap oil out and put Castrol GTX 20W50 in and the starter does not malfunction anymore, not even once! I cant believe it! I guess these bikes were not made to run synthetic---I'm sticking with conventional oil from now on."

 

I am actually taking apart the motor mainly to replace the primary chain guide. But since I have been having starter clutch issues, I was going to do that too. I tried the cleaning method where you spray solvent through the starter housing, didn’t seem to help. I suppose the best thing to do is inspect the starter clutch for wear or damage and go from there.

 

The best kit I found is out of the UK , got it off of eBay it has heavy-duty springs, rollers and the cups for the springs are drilled so better oiling I think , sorry can't recall company name .