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1983 XJ750 Maxim

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by DeanXJ750, Feb 28, 2016.

  1. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    20150806_163026.jpg Starting a rebuild project on my 1983 XJ750. I love this bike so much.
    Appreciate any comments or advice.
    XJ4EVER
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016
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  2. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Stripped! 20150813_211727.jpg
     
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  3. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Pile O' Parts getting bigger and bigger.
    20150813_211702.jpg 20150806_193847.jpg
     
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  4. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    20151128_163019.jpg
    RFY shocks came in, did a quick fit and have to cut some tabs off the frame to make them fit.
    Had to mount them backwards to get a look at them for now.
    Like the look of them so far! Will look better with the reservoir facing the rear.
     
  5. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Winter is coming..... hahaha
    Bike put back in the barn!
    Tight quarters to work in and I apologize for the upclose photos but it's the only place I have to work on it to escape the snow.
    Let's get her ready for the spring! 20160207_111843.jpg
     
  6. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Brakes are in.
    No delamination for me please!!
    20160228_095426.jpg
     
  7. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Gonna use the existing seat pan to maintain the bodylines of the side covers to the seat. I want to keep the foam shape around the side of the seat pan (inside thigh) for comfort while riding. IMG_4637.jpg 20160228_100144.jpg
     
  8. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Started playing with some lines for the fenders. Taped front fender to visualize the look on the bike, the green area is what I'm thinking for my new fender design (minus the center green tape, that was just for symmetry). Rear fender needs to be shortened, and then relocated on the frame.
    One thing at a time though haha..
    20160228_100719.jpg
     
  9. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    a lot of newer bikes came with the front fender short in the back like that. Then look at the after market accessories for those biles and you find fender extensions.
    just something to think about
     
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  10. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    I hear ya, Im still torn on even cutting it at all.
    The 3 options for me are, leave stock fender, cut stock fender, or remove & brace.
    I may just put some kind of brace in and go without a front fender. ( I like the look of the open tire) I've seen many posts on here about bracing if you remove the front fender.? Does anyone now any threads or photos of the "brace" itself? Im curious as to what people have used..
    Then again... I worry about the poor pipes getting shredded without a fender..?
     
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  11. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    1. Then don't cut anything

    2. Then leave the fender off. Just be ready for a LOT of road spray in your if you get into ANY water..... Been there done that--- am there do that.... Look at my 700 pseudo bob in the showcase
     
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  12. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    AHAHAHA thank you sir! I'll join the "fenderless"!! Just need to make up some kind of brace.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016
  13. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Some more info on the Maxim.
    1983 XJ750 Maxim
    21,000 km

    Received this beauty from my father as a gift a few years back. He had purchased it 10 years prior and it sat in a barn ever since..

    I rebuilt it 2 seasons ago, thanks to all the info I got from XJBIKES. Spent countless hours on this site and the bike!! It's been an amazing bike and so much fun to ride. A very comfortable, easy 750. Love my Maxim.

    This time around the rebuild is MOSTLY aesthetic. Going for a (softail) bobber style look. Repaint tank, covers, frame, wheels. New rubber, bars, grips, mirrors, signals, suspension. Address a few issues with the bike; throttle play, clean up a few wiring spots, new rear brake rod needed (got bent during transport). Brake job, oil change, and then hit the road!

    I just want to thank all the active members of xjbikes.com for helping me rebuild my first motorcycle and now help inspire me to push it a little further.

    Thanks XJBIKES.Com

    DeanXJ750
     
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  14. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Sooooo I've been wanting to do Stainless steel lines...:cool:

    I recently saw somewhere/Someone had coloured braided lines and banjo fittings. (Like this option because I can match colour scheme of bike)
    I found one place I can order (http://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/spiegler-yamaha-xj750-seca-82-85-front-brake-line-kit-orig/)
    but they are asking me the type of brake line setup?
    I know there are 3 lines on my Maxim. One from master cylinder to a union/splitter, then to each caliper.
    So I would GUESS its a 3 line setup.?

    But is there something else I am missing.?
    It's asking if it is 2 line alternative, 2 over the fender, 3 lines, type 950...???
    How do I know if I have an anti dive version?
    Are 83 Xj750's brake lines the same as XJ750 Seca??

    I am from Canada so I want to get the order right the first time and not spend a fortune on shipping.
    So if there are any other Canadian XJ'ers out there that have any good links to Canadian parts supplier let me know!;)

    Any help or insight you guys have on this is greatly appreciated. Thanks

    -DeanXJ750
     
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  15. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Got my battery. Last one failed on me...:(
    Now time to fill & charge, fix some electrical wiring and install some turn signals.
    20160302_095328.jpg
    What is the procedure for measuring rectifier output? Similar to measuring alternator output on a car? Check voltage at battery while running?? I just want to confirm my charging system is working properly.
     
  16. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    For all XJ-series models, the maximum available charging output VOLTAGE should be as follows (all values are approximate):

    * approximately 500-2000 rpms: 1.8 volts gradually increasing to 14.2 volts
    * 2000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X)
    * 3000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts (all XJ700-X and XJ750-X)

    all the info you seek is in the information overload link read it.
    The Information Overload Hour


    or for less reading this link
    The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

    there are 2 tests you will want to do 1 is overall voltage out put the other is voltage drop when starting

    free haynes manual should have the out of bike test for regulator
    XJ750 manuals

    good info posted in this link for charging system its quoted from the ultimate relay link
    Electrical drain at battery.
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2016
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  17. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Fu***** EH! You guys rock.
     
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  18. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    we roll too:cool:
     
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  19. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    :DHahaha Thanks for responding. It's a nice community here on XJBIKES.com.
    Still hung up on my stainless steel brake line questions (line confirguration). Wondering if anyone has any input?
     
  20. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Battery is filled and charging...!
    Patience.....
     
  21. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Ordered some signals today. Liked the look of these ones!
    61wGOwA05EL._SL1200_.jpg
     
  22. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    member chacal sells the lines which have the end connectors built in if you look in his catalog you should find the answer or you could start a conversation with him
     
  23. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    1983 XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models:


    HCP8357CLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the master cylinder to the distribution joint, with clear sheathing.FOR USE ONLY WITH THE ORIGINAL XJ750 MAXIM OEM MASTER CYLINDERS AND STOCK HANDLEBARS (which will have the fluid outlet port on the "small" face of the reservoir housing).
    $ 59.95

    HCP9880CLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the master cylinder to the distribution joint, with clear sheathing.FOR USE WITH ANY NON-ORIGINAL OEM OR THE AFTERMARKET HCP1808WO MASTER CYLINDER WITH A FORWARD-FACING FLUID OUTLET PORT (the fluid outlet port on the "large" face of the reservoir housing).
    $ 62.95

    HCP8328CLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the distribution joint to the left brake caliper, with clear sheathing.
    $ 57.95

    HCP8329CLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the distribution joint to the right brake caliper, with clear sheathing.
    $ 57.95

    he has the stainless steel lines in all colors too
    this is for stock MC and handle bars.
    his list of SS lines covers more

    his list has 83 seca 750 listed as different they have anti dive unit
    HCP2835LHCLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the left distribution joint to the left caliper, with clear sheathing.
    $ 57.95

    HCP2835RHCLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the right distribution joint to the right caliper, with clearsheathing.
    $ 57.95

    HCP2834LHCLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the left caliper to the left anti-dive unit, with clear sheathing.
    $ 41.95

    HCP2834RHCLRST Aftermarket DOT-approved braided stainless steel BRAKE LINE ASSEMBLY, from the right caliper to the right anti-dive unit, with clear sheathing.
    $ 41.95
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2016
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  24. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Battery is charged! Time to cut the frame and mount fender/turn signals.
    Ordered an LED Brake/turn assembly that I think will look great on the rear fender.
    s-l300 (1).jpg

    Then I prep for paint! Ugggghhhh paint...
     
  25. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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  26. Mustang

    Mustang Member

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  27. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    the lines from chacal are 1 piece lines with the connectors built in not screwed on
     
  28. Mustang

    Mustang Member

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    My cash (I ment wife) won't allow me to spend 100 bucks on 1 piece lines
     
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  29. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Last edited: Mar 9, 2016
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  30. Mustang

    Mustang Member

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    Oh I thought it was per line, must have missed reading per pair
     
  31. Mustang

    Mustang Member

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    I have left and right hoses each selling for 50 bucks each not as a unit
     
  32. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    going to clarify many of the xj have a line from mc to a union on fork then from union to caliper

    the items i posted are for max and seca 750
    the maxim has 3 brake lines one from mc to union then 2 more 1 to each caliper 3 lines total

    the seca has 5 lines because of the anti dive units
     
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  33. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    and you need a third hose that goes from mc to union

    what bike and from who?
    this site
    https://www.z1enterprises.com/search?q=brake+hose
    sells hoses with out the required end part it is sold seperatly

    from www.xjforever.com is what I posted above and come with the connector crimped on it
     
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  34. Mustang

    Mustang Member

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    OK I went back and re read your comment lol stupid brain not working, we are saying the same thing I just read wrong 100 for the pair or 50 each
     
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  35. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Got a nice brake light/license mount the other day.
    41OzmtEuY2L._SL720_.jpg
     
  36. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Chopped!
    20160319_171239.jpg 20160319_172600.jpg
    20160319_172318.jpg
     
  37. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Some more progress..
    20160320_170655.jpg
    Trying to play with the rear fender and find a nice position/line. 20160320_180757.jpg
     
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  38. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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  39. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    20160319_231919.jpg
     
  40. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Working on the turn signals tonight.
    20160415_205344.jpg 20160415_214541.jpg 20160415_220914.jpg
     
  41. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    How do I perform these tests?
    Do I meter at the battery while running for overall voltage?
    And metet voltage while starting and document for voltage drop???
     
  42. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Yes. Measure voltage across the battery terminals.
    Running voltage at idle, at 2,000 RPM, and at 4,000 RPM.
    Voltage drop when starting the engine from cold.
     
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  43. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Ok so....
    13.01 at idle
    14.71 at 2000rpm
    14.80 at 4000rpm
    And
    10.87 drop on start.

    Good check up with the voltage doctor??
     
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  44. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I forgot; battery resting voltage for refrence.
    Otherwise everything looks good to me.
     
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  45. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Been a little while, but I'm Still hammering away at it!
    IMG_20160504_225939.jpg
     
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  46. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    My aftermarket turn signals aren't blinking!
    I know... I know... they aren't 27w bulbs.
    They are the "mini" size bulbs in my aftermarket signals compared to the original 1156 size.
    I understand I need the correct wattage to make them blink but can't find a mini bulb rated at 27w.
    Just wondering if you can wire in a resistor at each bulb to make the system work again?? Would that Make it read that my new bulbs are 27w and flasher relay and self canceler would work again?
     
  47. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    You are fully correct. Try to get ceramic load resistors that are encased in aluminum heat-sinks. This suckers get hot, and the heat-sinks mitigate much of that so you don't end up with melted insulation, or a fire. Place the resistors between the signal pigtail and the factory harness, exposed to airflow if possible. You really only need one per side, so wire them into the rear signals and place them on the frame next to the turn signal mounts.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2016
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  48. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Ok I will get ceramic resistors like you stated.
    1)Is there a certain "rated" resistor..? Meaning... do resistors come in wattage increments..??

    2)And would I subtract my current (aftermarket) bulb wattage from 27watts (factory requirement) and purchase that resistor?

    3)Also are you saying put them on the positive lead going to each rear signal.?Just to clarify; One resistor on each of the rear turn signals positive wire in series?
     
  49. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    1. Wattage is a conseuence of work being done (in this case truning electricity into heat). Resistors are rated by (wait for it).. resistance, measured in ohms. Voltage x current (in amps) = wattage. You have a 12 volt system. The original bulbs draw 2.2 amps (wattage divided by voltage). You'll need to use the wattage of your new bulbs to figure their current draw, subtract that from the expected 2.2 amps, then divide 12 (voltage) by the difference to find the resistance neded for each bulb (resistance in Ohms = Voltage divided by current in Amps). Double that to find the resistance needed for each signal circuit, and buy two resistors that each have at least that value.

    2. See #1

    3. Yes. Place each load resistor in series, before the bulb, on the positive lead. You can put them on the negative lead, but that's not the normal practice for a variety of historical and pedantic technical reasons that don't really apply to this circuit.
     
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  50. DeanXJ750

    DeanXJ750 Member

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    Ohms Law.!
    How could I forget my high school electrical class!!!!

    THANK YOU K-MOE.
    You took some time to answer my questions and I appreciate it very much!

    Let's get these blinkers blinking!
     

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