550 Seca with a 750 Front End?

Hello my friends. Take a look at this:

https://rocket-garage.blogspot.com/2013/08/xj-550-cafe-racer.html

I love this build. I'm curious to what you all might think he did for this set up?

It looks like a 750 front end (dual discs, etc.) on a 550 Seca.

Anyone speak/read Italian?

 

that is a xj550 issued in europe they had dual disc and swirly rims.
the calipers are looking 550 style

not called seca except in north america
I search for xj 550 forks on ebay uk and germany for the setup and the wheels

see this link

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_xj550 81.htm

 

550

xj 750

 

Nico Dragoni offers me his second work a Yamaha XJ 550 of 1984, it is evident that in this bike took more care and passion in fact has pulled out of a cafe racer small and compact but clean lines.
The works have affected the chassis that has undergone a work of cleaning the superfluous and then covered by this beautiful shade of blue, the suspensions have been stiffened and then a series of interventions that the photos show alone.
Important thing is that the driving position, reversible with a more comfortable in the owner felt the need.
The bike is not without its critics but are details or because of the inherent structure of the bike but the result is definitely my appreciation otherwise would not find space here to RocketGarage, because you remember that what you see here is because you don't like it and not because I've seen around the web.

 

Thanks for the comprehensive response. Unfortunate that direct translation is a bit weird... but again, thank you.

For our purposes here in the ol' US, is it possible to take a 750 front end and put it on a 550 seca? If it's not a bolt on swap, what do you think it would take? I like the beefy look of the forks from the larger bike on the smaller frame. His fork tubes tops appear higher in the triple tree, thus lowering the front end. With clip ons, it's an overall mean look!

I posed the above question to Hogfiddles. He suggested to post it and have the forum "Have At It!"

 

I think that the extention above the triple tree has air valves added on..
but you can extend the fork tubes up if you want to lower front end

the seca 550 has the smallest dia fork tubes in the XJ family at 35 mm. to do any kind of swap involves the entire front end of the bike.
All balls racing has a chart for doing this it gives you the taper bearings you need to use.
http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion

here is tube diameters of the xj family
DIA Model
37 Yamaha XJ-650 LK "Seca Turbo" (83)
37 Yamaha XJ-900 RK "Seca" (83)
37 Yamaha XV-920 RH/RJ "Virago" (81-82)
37 Yamaha XJ-1100 J "Maxim" (82)
37 Yamaha XS-1100 E/F/G/H (78-81)
37 Yamaha XS-1100 LG/LH (80-81)
37 Yamaha XS-1100 LG/LH "Midnight Special" (80-81)
37 Yamaha XS-1100 SF (79)
37 Yamaha XS-1100 SF (79)

"36(mm) Yamaha XJ-650 RJ "Seca" (82)"


all of the XJ750 (except the XJ750-X and the XJ750RL) are 36mm, and

the XJ750X and RL models are 37mm.

maxim 550 36 mm

 

Holy Cow. That link is an unbelievable cross reference tool.

Given the purchase of the correct bearings, you think it is doable? (again, '83 750 maxim front end on a 550 frame)

The search engine makes note of incompatible stem lengths... do you think this is an issue?

I ask because I'll be acquiring the said 83 750 Maxim shortly. There's no title, so It's a parts bike. I'm thinking about holding on to the front end (brakes, etc.) and parting out the remainder... with the hopes of a 550 seca crossing my path in the future.

Additionally, if YEAR is an issue to make things mesh, what year 550 would I need to keep on the radar?

 

Year isn't an issue. The stem height will be, but that can be remedied with either a stem swap (move the 550 stem to the 750 lower yoke), or modifying the 750 stem.

 

...but -pulling a stem and putting it on another lower clamp is not something you can do you can do yourself-----unless you're a machine shop---

 

I would't buy the Maxim forks if you're after the look in the pic. Maxim & Seca 750 has the axle mounted in front of the forks, better to go with the XJ650RJ. It sounds like you want clip-ons in which the 86-88 FZ600 has everything you're after. What size wheel do you prefer?

 

Here are a couple of pictures of a bike with the swap your considering. It's a simple bolt on operation for the most part with all the right parts from a donor.
There are couple minor differences that will change the way your bike will handle.
The differences being;
the length of the fork tubes are a little longer, the spring rate is heavier than the 550s and the axle is a leading edge axle.
These differences definitely will change the way your bike handles and reacts, not so much in a negative way but things will be different, for sure. Be prepared to re-learn your bikes new characterics.
I had a leading edge axle on my bike for a season and it was fine. The way the front end reacts coming out of a hard leaning curve requires more applied effort and feedback to return the steering back to where it should be.
Basically your geometry has changed so your riding habits have to adapt.
Good luck and post your results and pictures.

 

Quite the truck in the background!

 

Well I am a machine shop (sort of)

You actually don't need much to do that job. A grinder, a torch, a freezer, and a press or BFH and drift. The stem is an interferance fit once the welds are cut (if there even are welds. I can't remember).

 

did you use just the forks and triple trees? then bolt the 750 brkake setup to orig. seca rim?
looks good.
I am considering this for my Maxim 550 so it may be possible to keep 550 triple trees.
looks like an oversized tire up front what did you use on the seca front and rear?

 

• I swapped the triples and all the entire front end pieces.
• Those are the Seca rims pictured above.
• There is just enough material on the 550 triples that you could machine off 2mm and get away with it to fit the larger forks.

 

thanks for the info . also the maxim 550 has the same diameter tubes as the 750 so no need to mod the trees.

 

I agree with Simmy post regarding the axle position on the forks. If it's a Seca, stick with original the axle configuration. The leading axle set up takes away from the Seca's great handling characteristics.

 

Okay, a little clarity is needed here........these questions are for Simmy and robawf:

1) roabawf.........you are using XJ750 Seca forks, did you use the 750 Seca upper and lower brackets? If so, what (if any) mods needed to be done to the frame/headpipe, or does the lower bracket fit properly in the 550 Seca headpipe? If not, which upper/lower brackets did you use?

2) roabawf.........if you did use the 750 Seca crown bracket, how well did the headlight mount and gauge mounts fit?

3) roabawf.........I assume that the 550 Seca front rim alrady has the brake rotor mounting holes drilled on both sides?

4) roabawf.........what's the oil cooler off of?

5) simmy.......have you done this conversion using 650RJ front forks? If so, the same questions apply.

BTW........1982 XJ650 Turbo (36mm tubes) also has a straight axle, as does the 1983 XJ650 Turbo (37mm tubes) and the XJ900 models (37mm tubes).......so the "ultimate" 550 Seca conversion would use the 1983 XJ650 Turbo forks or XJ900 forks.

XJ550 Seca fork tubes (inner) are 23" long, while the 650RJ are 23-7/8" and the 650 Turbo are 24-1/4" long. The 900's are only 22-7/8", much closer to the 550 Seca models.

XJ550 Maxim owners: already have a leading front axle and 36mm tubes, so a conversion using either 750 Maxim or 750 Seca front tubes is much more straightforward.......

35mm tubes:
XJ550 Seca (straight axle)

36mm tubes:
XJ550 M (leading axle)
XJ650 M, MM (leading axle)
XJ650 Seca (1982) (straight axle)
XJ650 Turbo (1982) (straight axle)
XJ750 M, MM (leading axle)
XJ750 Seca (leading axle)

37mm tubes:
XJ650 Turbo (1983) (straight axle)
XJ900 (straight axle)
XJ1100 (leading axle) (size per Forks by Frank)

38mm tubes:
XJ700 all (leading axle)
XJ750-X

Is this the procedure you did? The fork you used are 750 Seca correct? If so, why machine off 2mm?

 

Not done this myself Len, never had a 550 Seca but they are the looker of the XJ family IMHO.
I'll defer to robawf here as he's actually done it, you've already provided more info than I had, didn't know about the various lengths, crucial consideration here, perhaps even more useful would be the inner tube bottomed into the slider or the combined length of the fork components.

 

Now look at what I started here... heh...

 

The 750 maxim that is coming could have had the donor forks/tree I'd use, but it seems like it might not be worth the effort. Also, I wasn't thinking about the axel placement at all... so I'm thankful for all the info here.

It was just a thought for a future project. I do like the 86-88 FZ600 idea... hmmm... If I do get my hands on the bike this weekend, I'll be parting it out... Thanks again to all for the 550/750 info.

 

After rereading this thread some clarity definitely is needed.
The pictures of the bike I posted are from my image collection of modified XJs pilfered from the interweb. Random bike with no actual specs.
I assisted a buddy on a xj750 fork swap to his xj550 Seca. That was 14 years and many bikes ago. It was already disassembled upon my start on the project. A real hodge podge mess of parts done in his carport with plastic stapled on the open sides and one single light bulb. (My work shop standards have came a long way since then.)
I called him to jog my memory:

• He did machine the xj550 triples 3mm to fit the forks. The xj750 triples were not applicable, that was our consensus based on our abilities and funds at that date in time. I was incorrect stating that the xj750 triples were used. My bad.
• On the swap I did on my own xj550 using a leading axle several years ago, the xj550 front wheel was used which did have disc bolt holes on both sides. I used Suzuki GS forks which slid into the factory triples. They are a little long so I shortened them internally to fit the rake to my liking. (It looked cool, most of the parts were free but it didn't handle the way it did before. Not bad, just weird. I changed that for my current set up the following winter. I was so happy with the new-to-me correct fork configuration I did a swing arm rear disc swap the following winter and painted it as well.)
• Don't know about the other things. (head light & oil cooler)
• This is my bike as it sits to date:

I apologize for the vague open ended posts. Upon rereading what I posted and what I intended on conveying at that time, I was like... WTF?

 

robawf........you're bike is very cool.

Still have a need for clarity though:

a) what front forks are you currently using, which upper/lower fork brackets, etc. etc.

b) what rear swingarm, discs, wheel, etc. was used?

What we need is a shopping list!

 

Shopping List Deluxe:

-Rear sets and handle bars fabricated.
-Fuse box upgrade.
-Factory seat reshaped, width thinned almost 3", and reupholstered.
-Lowered fuel tank in front 1 1/2".
-Swingarm swap off of a 1993 Xj600 II, width tightened 1 1/2" to match correct width of upper shock mounts. Fabricated lower shock mounts installed to match rake angle of front forks. Pivot needle bearings installed in width correct pivot tube. Spools installed for paddock stand.
-Steering damper with fabricated mount.
-House of Kolor red paint.
-145 MPH speedometer in lowered factory cluster.
-XJ700 engine side covers.
-Euro wiring harness replicated.
-XJR400 SS header pipes, NOS collector, reverse cones w/ SS wool packing.
-HYPERPAK FlameThrower TCI unit.
-AGM 14AMP battery.
-2003 CB750 coils
-8mm plug wires. (My latest purchase from Chacal)
-RFY rear shocks. (modified)
Front set up:
-Lowered 1983 GSX650 air forks, brake calipers & 19" front wheel.
-Factory master cylinder with microswitch® brake light switch.
-Progressive springs.
-1982 KZ750 drilled dual front discs.
-1983 GSX650 front fender.
Rear disc brake set up:
-2002 R6 master cylinder & reservoir.
-1998 Bandit GSF600 caliper.
-1983 GSX750 18" rear wheel.
-1982 KZ750 drilled disc.
-Fabricated brackets,caliper stay & brake control bell crank.

 

Troublemaker....

 

* the forks from the GSX650 are 35mm so the factory upper and lower triples are used in the stock configuration.

 

I now return this thread and it's topic back to its original poster.....

 

And this is how low the front tire is as it sits to date..... lol

 

Take a closer look, there is a ripple in the tarp that it's parked on. It does look kind of flat to the untrained eye IMO.

 

Robawf, I've only 2 years of experience now tinkering with my XJ. I know that I know very little, and have many years of reading and doing to even have half the skill set as many here.

Looking at what you've done makes me realize how VERY little I know and how LACKING my skill set is. Heh...

What you've done there is so damn impressive. What a final product... Bravo!

Now, on to what brought this string up in the first place. As initially posted, I was under the assumption that I was going to acquire a 750 Maxim parts bike. The owner was asking $200.00 and I did not think that was unreasonable. I had several texts with him a phone call, there were two pictures (more on that) and ultimately a plan to go get it.

I rented the trailer. I drove a distance there and then... got cold feet.

The listing had very little info, there was a description that it would start with some coaxing and some power. The pics unfortunately were not telling enough.

Keep in mind I do understand this is a $200 bike.

The coaxing and start was not a recent event. In fact it looked like the bike had been sitting in the snow, rain and ice and mud for that matter for quite some time. The posted picture hid the large dent in the tank quite well. The seat was BAKED with pinholes through to the foam. I rubbed it a bit and saw that "seat" was coming off onto my hand. You could also not see that the gauge cluster was already pilfered (glass gone, needles snapped).

No key.... for the ignition, and of course then could not get into the tank (to see condition) or seat! He said he didn't know where the key was or when it disappeared... How many years ago exactly did it start with some coaxing?

I pulled out a box wrench and my trusty JIS screwdriver and went to pull the lower cover to turn the crank.... Stripped screws!

I felt bad. I started sweating! As I stood there in the mud with snow and rain coming down, I couldn't help but hear ALL the other bikes (Hondas, Kawais, etc.. no other XJ's mind you) he had scattered about the yard all calling to me.... HELP US! Some laying on their sides... Most out with no shelter of any kind. It was kind of creepy.

I envisioned myself handing over the money and rolling the Ol' helpless girl into my last shred of space in my garage... I thought... Who the hell do I think I am? Dave? Heh...

She was just sooooo corroded. Beyond my willingness to give her a home while taking that open ended amount of time to part her out 5 bucks at a time (remember no title... and yes I thought about the Vermont loophole)... Though, the carbs were probably intact.

Again, I understand this is a $200.00 bike. What did I expect?

I freaked... I left with my empty rented trailer.

Regardless of her condition If I had more space, I probably would have taken her home after all the time and effort. I just can't see doing that and continuing to leave her outside as a lawn ornament... If she was a 700n, I definitely would justify the garage spot and have taken her for my own spare.

I don't blame the seller. I think he could have been a bit more detailed in the description, but I also blame myself for not asking more/better questions before heading out. The NO KEY issue was a big thing for me. Wouldn't he have needed it to at least get her kicked over with starter fluid? Perhaps not.

As I waned, it was clear he was losing the sale. He told me that the engine alone would sell for more than he's asking for the whole bike... indeed... but I couldn't verify on the spot if I could move the pistons... let alone check compression.

He was NOT a jerk when I told him I was not taking it. He looked disappointed as he had traveled a distance to meet me as well.

I decided to leave the efforts of parting out to the professionals... or at least to those who have the real estate and hiding spaces to hold all that gold!

Lesson learned... and thanks for "listening."

 

I was looking at the shadow/surface reflection that looks like a flat bulge on the tire itself

 

all those fancy mods and what might be the cheapest tires there are........the same ones i have

 

First off, this thread isn't mine. If you want to comment on my efforts or my attempts to be part of this forum, I'm all ears. The correct way to make sure I get your juvenile comments is to start a new thread or Pm me.
Just a little forum edicate for in the future when you decide to spew out remarks or comments.

 

And further more....
Go f*** yourself

 

?

 

you hurt my feelings, i'm going to cry now you big meenie

 

Either this is an inside joke, or someone is on an XJ death run between Seattle, WA and Bever Falls, PA to settle the score...

 

So Nuch--

How are things !

 

Good I guess, I'm sick right now... Fever and all...
Boooo...

 

Uh-oh

 

Vermont loop hole still requires a vin check not much of a loop hole

 

It's just a check to see if a bike is stolen, and if it's stolen it won't matter if you have a title in hand or not; instant impound. Given the low cost of going though Vermont, and the 50 state transferability of the registration, it's a wonderful method for titling a bike with no title.

 

NH does the same thing and a non resident can register a motor vehicle. our vin check is to make sure there is a correct vin. no records checked , no insurance needed for reg.
you can reg with just an old registration and no vin check , then you only need a vin check for getting a title issued

vin check 20$ reg 25$ title is 35$ annual renewal 25$

 

If it helps I think you made the right decision..