750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor.

Which is the best work around for wiring the Computer to not show the Warning Light for the Battery Sensor.

I read one Post that said to wire-in a pair of 2.2 Resistors to the White wire with Red Stripe and connect that wire to the switched wire that supplied current to the Tail Light.

Another solution said to just hook-up the White w/ Red wire directly to the + Side of the Battery.

Which hook-up works best and why?

 

I think the resistor method would be a safer bet. that way you're not dumping more current into the computer than it was designed for.

 

dumping more current into any computer chip makes it unstable in the face if heat and it weaken all the connections too and could make it pop out of its solder points. ive put more current to computer chips to over clock then but after a while they get flaky from it. so i would say the resistor method too. i remeber a member on the fourm who was an electircal man and he had all the math to go with it. i think that his posts where about the led turn signals.

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

Correct me, but depending on which cell you put the battery sensor in, you could have up to 12v or so on that sensor wire...

On the Turbo, I tied the sensor wire to the 12v+ battery to dismiss the battery trouble light. No problems for a year or so.

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

Hi All,
I found this diagram while looking for a suitable battery sensor replacement. I cannot do remember where I found it but whoever designed it looks like they knew what they were doing.
HTH,
Kent

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

well...I thought I had attached a jpg, I'll try one more time..
I did not realize I exceeded the image limit sorry.
Kent

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

well...I thought I had attached a jpg, I'll try one more time..
I did not realize I exceeded the image limit sorry.
Kent

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

I just spliced into a 12 volt wire that is hot with the key on.
It eliminated the warning light. My Maxim and my buddy's Seca have suffered no ill effects.
A new sensor placed in the correct cell in the battery would not cancel the warning light on either bike for some reason.

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

Try to think of it this way...

Your original sensor was placed directly in one cell of the battery and therefore ALWAYS had voltage available. It also had a resistor tied in series to limit the current available to the computer. the resistor was simply a safety device. Not entirely necessary but certainly a good idea. Some people feel that it is best to wire the "work around" to a switched source (only on when key is on) as an added safety to prevent battery drainage. Personally, I feel that this is unnecessary due to the face that the factory sensor was always "hot".

So, to recap...

resistor = GOOD IDEA
wiring to switched source = your choice.

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

Based upon some fiddling I did when my battery sensor died, I determined the "chip" that the sensor connects to most likely be some derivative of a basic operational amplifer. And the funny thing with op-amps is they essentially have infinite resistance, meaning no current can flow into their input terminals, which means soldering the resistors in there is like peeing in the ocean, it may make you feel better, but it doesn't change anything. if you tie the sensor wire to the 12v battery terminal, resistors or not the computer "see's" 12v (no current flow means no voltage drop accross the resistors)

Jay

 

I don't know how the Computer works.
If the current from the Battery Sensor Input is supplied from the +-side of the Battery and not a switched source; will that prevent the Computer from doing any "Reset" function it's supposed to do?

The PO who had the Member's bike I just worked on sourced the Battery Sensor wire to the +-side of the Battery.
The Warning Light stays on.
We thought we had found the reason for the Warning Light when we found the Brake Master Cylinder low on Brake Fluid.

After flushing and topping-off the Master Cylinder; I expected the Warning Light to extinguish.
It did not.
So, I'd like to try and satisfy the Computer to have the Warning Light go out.

Or, ... do the Computer's on the Seca have a glitch in them that causes the Warning Light to stay on over time?

 

Rick -

that light should only come on along with one of the other fault indicators on the LCD. if it comes on by itself, something is hosed inside the computer assembly.

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

Its mine Kent. It is in my gallery.

 

i agree, if there are no faults listed on the LDC screen your warning light should not come on. If it does, something is wrong inside your computer. Having the battery work around tied to a constant +12VDC source should not have caused anything of the sort.

 

I'm beginning to think it might be something to do with the Lower of the two front headlamps having been removed.

What's the function of the small toggle switch on the Right Hand Control that's on the control just to the Left of the Start Button on the 750 Seca?

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

Rick,
That toggle should be for the aux. low-beam lamp that mounts under the head light. If the bike had one originally and it's been removed the computer may be registering that as a burned out bulb which would throw a warning light, but the LCD "HEAD" should also be light up.

Jay

 

Re: 750 Seca Computer Work-around Question -- Battery Sensor

read this over it might give ya some ideas
hope this works

 

my bike had the aux light and is now removed. no warning. the aux light should have nothing to do with the warning light.

 

Ok heres what I know about the wiring for the battery sensor. I followed my sensor wire back to the ignition switch which disconects the sensor when the switch is off,hence not a drain on the battery. (don't jump out the switch inside the headlight it will drain your battery) I Have gotten all of my bikes that have the LCD readout to work perfectly by cleaning the contacts in the ignition switch and puting fresh sensors in the proper place in the batteries. If you pull the ignition switch out you will see little phillips screws that hold the contact block onto the switch. Remove them and carefully remove the contacts. Clean and lube them and put the switch back togeather. Now look at the sensor. See that it reads at least 4-6 volts to ground whith a good volt meter. If you have that your sensor should be ok. Hook it all up and check to see if the battery light goes out. If it does not you can check the red wire with the white stripe on it inside the headlight. Clean and lube those connections and that should take care of it. I am thinking that the current and voltage is so low its hard to get good connections back to the computer for it to pick up so the light doesn't come on. I personally like all of the indicators working on my bikes. Hope that helps and works for you.

 

That switch controls the factory fog light.