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82' 750 Resurrection

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Brandon Spencer, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. Mobius Williams

    Mobius Williams Member

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    I found with my '81 Seca I had to give a lot of attention to the stock connectors. If they didn't do with a thorough disassemble and cleaning I replaced them with new, or just soldered the joints with heat shrink. Also replace the stock fuse box without a doubt. I personally used in-line fuse holders that have an LED that lights up when the fuse is blown on that holder. Prior to that I was constantly chasing random electrical problems. Since. Few to none.
     
  2. Mobius Williams

    Mobius Williams Member

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    Looks like I was a little late on this reply. New to the forum.
     
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  3. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Meant to get an update up last week but here we go!

    Forks are done! Won't post all the details but will share pics of which parts get replaced in a basic rebuild kit from Chacal. I decided to block off my Anti-Dive valves and got the plugs to do so.

    20200630_112143.jpg 20200630_112154.jpg 20200630_112209.jpg 20200630_112215.jpg 20200630_112221.jpg 20200630_123340.jpg 20200630_152752.jpg

    Also if you did not know where the Upper Cushion Gasket goes, it is above the air joint, below the triple-tree bracket:
    20200701_165848.jpg

    Onto the tank and fairings!

    Here is some of the solder work I did on the tank:

    20200702_130025.jpg

    Sanded flush and no more pinholes or leaking.

    Removed more rust from the outside of the tank and need to finish it up with some 600 grit before applying bondo.

    Rear headlight housing was sanded, primed and sanded again. It is ready for paint.

    20200630_155736.jpg

    Side covers were also sanded down and then primed. Still need to wet sand before they are paint ready:

    20200702_141352.jpg 20200702_160953.jpg

    Rear fender/license plate holder was taken apart, rust removed from metal parts and then painted. That is ready to go back onto the bike.

    20200702_153532.jpg


    My paint order arrived yesterday along with other supplies. My goal in the next day or so is to fully prep the tank for painting. Still need to finish sanding and then apply bondo and well sand again. Hopefully by the weekend it will be time to spray paint and clear!
     
  4. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Mail call and paint update!!

    Got my new battery in from Len along with some other small items. I will get it installed once it's fully charged.
    20200714_084204.jpg

    Painting is complete! Very happy with how the tank and plastics turned out. First time using body filler and you can't even tell there the dents and dings were.

    Paint was supplied by ColorRite and I used 2K clear.

    20200709_131542.jpg 20200709_171123.jpg 20200709_185357.jpg 20200712_152831.jpg

    Still need to wait about one more day before wet sanding the clear down then onto polishing and wax. I have all the parts for the tank re-build so that will also be done before going back on the bike.

    Here is a semi-first look of the bike with tank and plastics on

    20200712_161554.jpg 20200712_161626.jpg
     
  5. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Looking good so far!
     
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  6. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Like that look.
     
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  7. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Shes ready!!

    Wet sanded, applied compound and polish to tank and plastics!

    20200715_154616.jpg IMG_20200715_191940_802.jpg

    Installed the new petcock kit, and gas cap from Chacal

    IMG_20200715_191947_886.jpg IMG_20200715_192002_398.jpg

    Now I am no professional but really happy how the paint turned out. Could use a little more sanding to get that mirror finish, but will do that another day.

    20200715_185456.jpg 20200715_185506.jpg

    Threw the new battery in, connected the tank, primed and she fired right up! Few minutes to settle the idle (still need to fully tune the carbs) but sounds great!

    I did notice one thing with the gas cap, pretty sure it is suppose to vent the fumes but it's not...major pressure build up. The gas cap pops when you go to open it.

    Any ideas?
     
  8. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Rebuild the cap.... the ball vent and/or air filter are clogged
     
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  9. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    It's brand new from Chacal...should I dig into it?
     
  10. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Contact him..... in the unlikely event you either got a bad one, or accidentally got one for a california model
     
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  11. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Chatted with Chacal and after taking apart the cap and cleaning it very very well, I believe the issue is resolved. Tank no longer keeps pressure in and is venting out the cap.

    Seems the aftermarket cap had a different design with 2 ball bearings vs 1 with the OEM cap.

    Below this "seat" there is a smaller bearing which I guess had some debris in there which was stopping the air flow.

    20200717_115551.jpg

    Still going to keep an eye on it.

    I will get some better pics of the bike outside to really show off the paint
     
  12. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Took her out for a spin today! Still need to tune the carbs for smoother throttle. Love the way she sounds!

    20200726_182558.jpg 20200726_182609.jpg

    Good thing I was not far from home as I realized the battery was dying (tried to start up after taking pics)...running some tests indicated that my headlight draws some serious power when the bike is off. About 0.01 v per second with the bike off....possible lemon battery? (hope not)

    Charged the battery back up and ran the bike. Sitting idle I read about 14.5v at the battery, which I believe is about where it should be. Revving up to about 2k and its pushing about 14.8.

    Bike off and I let the battery sit for an hour or so and its reading 12.55v. Going to see what it's at in the morning but considering it has sat in the garage and fired right up I don't think there is a voltage drain.

    As for the headlight, I will probably go the route of getting a handlebar switch to turn the main low beam on/off. This would save power and only use the headlight when needed.
     
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  13. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    It would be best to keep it stock with the headlight relay that is already installed. The headlight will illuminate when the bike is started. The relay does latch, so if you shutdown with the kill switch of side stand while in gear the headlight will remain on until the key is turned off. Installing a switch is creating a hazard as the headlight needs to be on for daytime driving for your safety and the switch introduces the opportunity to forget.
     
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  14. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    My headlight has a set of LED DRL's which I will keep on all the time, BUT if I find the battery is just bad a switch may not be needed.

    Voltage on the battery showed 12.44v this morning, so that is a drop of .10v overnight. I am going to perform a draw test to see if any current is being pulled with the bike off. Otherwise I may need to reach out to Chacal about the battery.
     
  15. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Confirmed that battery is old/bad and working that out with Chacal.

    Gave vacuum syncing a shot today and really couldn't get it dialed in.

    20200729_174525.jpg

    I take it the main concept is to get all the cylinders about even with vacuum. Is there a certain number to aim for when at idle?

    All my fuel screws are set for ~2.5 turns out, which I did not mess with. I have a colortune on the way and figured that needs to be done first before trying this sync again.

    Bike idles ok-ish. Sounds like one cylinder decides to come to life every few seconds or so. This causes major bogging when riding until you open the throttle up a good bit.
     
  16. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Doesn’t matter what number they’re at.....you want them to be even with each other.

    you may have issues with colortuning or syncing......I wiener back through your posts, and I’m not seeing where you took the carbs the rest of the way down to do the throttle-shafts seals.... they’re old—very good source of potential vacuum leak
     
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  17. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    That will get you a ticket. All motorcycles in the U.S. post-1978 are required to have the headlight on whenever the engine is running, DRL's /Angel Eyes or not.
     
  18. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Yup did that (page 5), as it was a early suspicion of mine that they needed to be replaced. I'll check for a leak though with some carb spray.
     
  19. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Noted. Not going that route now since full headlight functionality will be good with a fresh battery
     
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  20. Brandon Spencer

    Brandon Spencer Member

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    Spent some major time on the bike today.

    No signs of a vacuum leak. Used start fluid around the boots, carbs, etc. and no change in RPM's.

    I was able to track down that no. 3 was the one that kept dying and coming back to life. Given this I decided to pull the rack and thoroughly clean no. 3, ultrasonic and all.

    Performed another bench sync (twice actually) to try to get them in the ballpark.

    Cleaning seemed to solve no. 3 from being finicky. First start jumped to 2K and I dialed it back down to just above 1k. Lowering it more causes some "chugging" where doing a colortune sync then vacuum should solve that.

    Happy with how the idle is now and my (cheap) gauges needed to be tuned themselves during my check. So all are pulling around the same vacuum, nice sewing machine sound.
     
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