82 MAXIM XJ650 CAFE RACER

HI All, I am new to this forum. I just purchased a 1982 Yamaha XJ650 running. I want to turn it into a café racer. I found a tank off a 1983 seca that already has the knee bends. will this tank match up with my existing tank? also, what do you guys use for a tail section? looks like some people use their old tank and cut it to create a tail section? also, what other mods do you guys use to create a café racer?

 

Welcome to the forum

You'll find good tank swapping info if you use the site's search bar, type in tank swap and under the "posted by member" bar put in hogfiddles, there's a bunch of posts he has made on the topic.

 

Totally my opinion, but using a tank as a hump would make for some really odd proportions, as it would be pretty darn wide and tall (as shown in the above picture).

 

yeah. I agree. I just seen that and thought of a pretty good idea of using old tank if you swapped for the seca tank. trying to use everything without sourcing.. if you know what I mean.... I am thinking of making one out of fiberglass right now. have any of you guys used aftermarket controls for your bike (ebay)? All of my controls are either broken or the bottons are missing. also, I have been talking with Sparck moto for a new harness. mine has been boogered and want to make this thing bulletproof with electrical. I am trying to do the minimum with the wiring, gauges, and controls. want it to look clean. looking at an aftermarket gauge as well on ebay. what do you guys think?

 

You could probably manage to make a seca tailpiece fit the Maxim frame. It won't bolt right up though.

 

I have been introduced to dime city cycles. whats your guys opinions on this company?. looks like they have tons of stuff. but I feel some of the stuff I have found on ebay for way cheaper. looks pretty comparable as well. I am talking controls, gauges, etc...

 

The things that they make themselves are of a high quality. The things they re-sell (gauges and such) are also of a fine quality, but they are not the only place selling them. Ebay resellers are often a good source, but you have to be very careful that you are not buying a Chinese made knockoff of a better quality product.

 

HI All, just got the whole bike stripped. that motor removal was easy!! a lot easier than I thought.... going to start to strip paint off the frame and get ready for paint. looking to go gold frame, black motor with some gold pieces on it (head, and some side covers), black wheels, with a black tank with the seca knee indents gold. has anyone done a frame and components in rattle can before? I am going down to my local Napa auto paint store to get the paint. I am hoping that they can make a tougher paint. I AM going to do the engine in a high temp black, but worry about the frame and components chipping or getting oil on them and bubbling off. any thoughts or suggestions?

 

Google 'xjbikes paint frame' and you will find some threads.
depending on how much the paint is, you might get better and longer lasting results with powder coating by just spending a little more...

 

my problem is that i want the gold to be the same color all around the bike... so if I powder coat the frame gold, and paint the tank with black and gold, I don't want the golds to look different.. Yes.. I am weird like that... LOL. I AM thinking of having the wheels powder coated black though.. I think if i get a good automotive grade paint that resists fuel and oil I shall be fine. and as EVERYONE knows... its really all about prep work!!

 

Do it up in a photo editing program first. You may find that having the tins and the frame the same color doesn't "pop" as much as having some contrast.

 

I always thought if I wanted new control buttons, I'd look into those little Chinese scooter controls. Their really cheap and small. They would fit 7/8 bars, don't know about durability though.
Lookup posts by wizard, he just did a tail section that's a work of art.

 

Eastwoods engine paint is about as tough as it gets for the block or frame or wheels or tank. Then it would all match.
Black and gold, is this going to be a Steelers bike?

 

no... I just like black and gold combo for a café for some reason... I am a New Orleans saints fan though.. so maybe it is in the back of my mind... HE HE. and you are right.. it might make it POP a lot more with two different varieties of golds on there... good call!

 

My helmet

 

NICE!!!

 

Hi All, I want to show some progress pics. I tore this bad boy all down. went and bought some aircraft remover... boy does that crap work!! used my buddies 3200psi pressure washer and got the frame AND the engine. taking the tank today to get painted. I am doing frame gold and engine black. should be back together soon!!

 

Looks good, but why didn't you pull the rear drive and shaft? The rear swing arm comes off easily and I can guarantee you that the bearings for the swing arm have water in them if you hit that area with a power washer, are you planning to replace after paint? Same with the head bearings. An 82 will have ball bearings, the tapered roller bearing kit is a good upgrade.

 

I didn't even think of that.. damn it... ok.. so I need to get new swing arm bearings, and what other bearings? Head bearings?

 

where do you guys find all of your bearings? Ebay? or ?

 

There are kits by All Balls on eBay, and there's always Chacal on here. I do recall a couple threads on here with users that had issues with the All Balls head bearing kit not fitting correctly but Chacal's did. You can PM him on here. I just started reassembly on my 82 XJ650 frame so I cannot speak on the bearing kits just yet, but I did my entire Kaw with the All Balls without any issues.

Parts: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-k-steering-and-suspension.44635/

There's also the front and rear wheel bearing sets. You can check these by spinning with your finger. If they feel gritty and hang up, you can replace these as well.

 

Oops. Double poster.

 

Start a conversation with Chacal.

About that pressure washer:
Is the engine torn down?
I hope water didn't get past any seals. Might want to check on that before you fire it up. Along with your wheel bearings.
Honestly any bike of this age really should have all the bearings renewed, or at the least cleaned and repacked.

 

I removed the filters off the carbs and duct tape them shut. stuffed rags in exhaust ports, and then duct taped them, and duct tape the various hoses. what seals are you talking about I should check?

 

I already sent him a message. I am going to replace front and rear bearings, and swing arm bearings. I asked him how hard it was to replace the neck bearings.. I have never been down that route.. I was afraid to tear it apart when washing it down...

 

If you can tear the frame down, you can do the head bearings. I'd rather do those any day over wheel bearings.

 

ok. I might as well give it a try. tearing it down is the easy part... its trying to remember were everything goes when putting it back together is the hard part!! LOL

 

That's what we're here for. And the manuals. My frame is as far apart as it comes. As soon as my engine is together and back in frame, I'm sure I'll have a hundred questions on what goes where.

 

3000 PSI of water (or even 1000 PSI) will not be held back by rags and duct tape. It won't even be held back by oil seals. If the inside of that engine is dry then you got lucky.

 

ok.. what do I need to take off to see if there is water in there?

 

I also checked the swing arm bearings and they were dry, as well as head bearings. everything seems tight. no wobbles or looseness. I don't think I need to change them...

 

At the bare minimum you should drain the sump, to check for water intrusion. Turn the engine over by hand before starting to make sure the new oil gets to all of the critical areas.
As for the bearings you should at the minimum clean and repack them. It will need to be done at some point, and you already have the bike nearly all the way apart now.

 

I also wanted to ask you guys.. I took apart the brakes shoes off the rear hub and noticed that a little piece of the outer brake hub had chipped off (I have to take a pic and put on here). do you think that it will affect anything? its chipped off right at the very tip of the hub. not in where the shoe slides.

 

Answer forthcoming as soon as we see a photo.

 

ok. I will take pic tonight. I had some car problems last night and got sidetracked...

 

as promised.. here are the photos. let me know what you think. It seemed to brake fine when I rode it.... but I want to make sure. thanks.

 

Dress the rough edges with a whetstone to put a chamfer on it so the brake lining dosen't catch. Check carefully for cracks that radiate from the missing piece. Run it and inspect the area regularly for cracks. Meanwhile look for a replacement wheel just in case there are tiny cracks that enlarge or spread.

 

ok. thanks!

 

have you guys ever modified your wire harness to make it simpler? I am looking at the Sparck moto harness that he makes for 275, but want to save some money. what is needed for the bike to run? I am going to have a simple setup on this bike. aftermarket gauge, aftermarket headlight with signals in it, aftermarket turn signals, aftermarket brake light/license plate bracket, aftermarket hand controls.

 

There are a bunch of threads on that if you use the search function. Here is the barebones diagram for an XJ:

 

thanks man!! that's exactly what I need. I just save 275 bucks... I can just buy wire and make my own now... awesome. I looked around and couldn't find anything!

 

I definitely follow Your project! Good work!

 

i found this stuff on ebay. might make a clean job
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131530199013?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

let me ask you guys... putting this bike back together... to save you all a million questions, what do you guys suggest for putting it back together for directions? what repair manuals are out there that has breakdowns and all the specific requirements? an owners manual? or?

 

Owners Manual and Clymers repair manual. I believe my repair manual is a Haynes manual but Clymers seems to be what gets recommended here.

 

I prefer the Haynes to the Clymer. FSM is a must. Be mindful of the typos and misprints that are documented on this site. All three manuals have mistakes.

 

Hi All, I went ahead and took it all apart to powder coat... My question of the day is... how do I remove the rear end gear housing from drive line and the u joint? I see there is 4 bolts on the back but it will only let me pull it back a little ways then the ujoint hits. could I just leave that all intact and have it powder coated? or is there a bunch of seals in there that will get fried?

 

The 4 nurs should let you slide the final drive off. The shaft should remain in the rear swingarm. You then pop the u joint off the front and the rest of the shaft will slide out the back.

I'll grab pics in a few min, just power coated my 82 650 maxim.

 

Here is the overall layout:



Drive shaft shot. There is a little clip on the shaft itself to lock the u joint yoke on there. It will pop off with a little effort:



Close up of the clip:

 

WHO DAT, buddy!