82 Seca 750 - Help

Alrighty, just dug the Seca out of the shed and wanted to fix the problems and get a good starter bike for my buddy. Heres my situation:

42k. Got the bike last year, needed starter clutch, split the cases, went through the tranny and engine, no problems. Good compression, no worn gears (too bad anyway), now the starter doesnt free spin, its lookin good! Cleaned the carbs, new plugs, sealed the tank, new gas, new tires, oil change in powertrain and dif. Fires up, took it down the road.

Heres the problems:

All the warning lights are on, no headlight, aux light, or turn signals, but tail/brake light works fine. Cant find any break in the wires, and cleaned all connections I could find, and checked all fuses.

Hesitation after warm, and revvs stay high when I flick it. Mix screws are 2.5 turns out, carbs synch'd, jets cleaned. Cant find a vac leak using the WD40 method. Ideas?

The Anti-Dive bleeder broke off inside the unit when I was trying to loosen it. Any ideas on getting that out? I was just going to bypass it for the time being so that I can get my front brakes back, but rather have it working right. Already tried an easy out, and I want to stay away from drilling so I dont touch the taper of the bleeder.

There you have it. If you need more info, I'll be happy to give.

Thanks!

 

Nobody? Did I post in the wrong section or something?

 

The only thing I can tell you for sure is that your carbs are lean at idle. Try turning the mixture screws out another half to full turn and see if that helps the hanging idle.

 

For the cluster, with that many different problems, I'd first suggest you double-check that all the plugs in the headlight bucket are connected and connected properly.

There are probably eight or nine plugs in the bucket. Six of them (three 3-pos, one 4-pos, a 6-pos, and a 9-pos) go to the cluster. The six and nine pin ones are for the warning center, and it's the 9-pos that carries headlight power, among other things.

On the other hand, though, the power for the Aux light and turn signals does not go through the clusters, and the power for the two of those is separate. If a couple of plugs got swapped, that one change might lead to all of your problems...

On an XJ, though, an original fuse box will always be suspect in electrical problems. If you still have an original fuse box, your first step should probably be to replace it with a modern ATO one.

 

Thank you sir. I will try that.

 

i recently traded a toyota 4x4 for an 82 seca. first thing i did was cut out that god awful instrument panel and put in a speedo that would actually tell me how fast this thing is. i dropped the forks thru the three tree bout an inch and a half anf put flat bars on, corners with the best of them now but my carbs have issues. gas flows all over the block if i leave the fuel cock on and it winds down in slow motion. runs like its barely gettin gas but all jets are clean and floats aren't stickin. ideas? check out the pick on facebook-troy eastridge. also looking for a belly pan

 

Thank you for the advice. I do have a couple new fuse holders in the box, but I suppose I could replace the rest. I checked all of the connections in the headlight bucket, and took off all the lights and checked them directly to the battery to see if the bulbs were good, which they were. I figured with everything not working, there must be a grounding issue or something that oversees all of them as opposed to everything breaking individually.

There was something in the headlight bucket that looked like a a relay or something that just dead ended 4 or 5 wires. It was a bit concave looking. I will check to see if the connectors were switched. I didnt even think of that before, but there has been more hands on this bike than just mine.

 

Im trying to keep it as stock as possible, and my speedo is real close until 60, then its off about 3% which seems normal. My fuel valve (or petcock) leaks too, but only when its off the bike. Otherwise the gas just goes into the bowls. You got a leak somewhere, or your bowl drains are bad. Maybe the micro screens inside the tank are clogged, or your vacuum actuator isnt pulling the valve open to let enough through.

Someone more knowledgeable about the specifics about this bike might be better suited to help you.

 

Did you re-finish the Diaphragm Bores.

A sitting bike makes an easy target for Aluma-Oxidation.
Machined surfaces get a "Dust-like" coating on them.

The Carb Bores get Oxidized and cause the Diaphragm's to: Hang-up, respond to slowly, not descend or rise, ... makes the Engine run like it has a mind of its own.

Get rid of the stock Fuse Block.

Don't make a Bad Situation, ... worse!
Leave the Dive Unit alone until you have a used one to Rebuild and REPLACE it with.
THEN, ... mess-around with the FUBAR Dive.

Consider a Non-Dive Front Assy off another Bike and swap Forks.

 

If you are referring to the part of the carb body that the needle-holding piston slides through, then no, I did not. The pistons slide through just fine, but it doesnt hurt to double check my work. Once I get the customer's bikes out of the shop, I'll put mine back in there.

I will get rid of the stock fuse block.

I just got shorter hollow caliper line bolts from a parts store that work and give me back my front brakes. The anti dive is capped and not being used. I'd hate to think that a broken bleeder would take out that feature. I'll put it on the bench when I can and try my luck at getting it unstuck. Maybe the torch, Free-all, and a good easy out might do the trick.

 

The Bleeder will come out.
I thought you meant the Adjuster Screw on the Bottom like on the 900.

Get a Mini-Propane Pencil Flame Torch.
Heat it.
Use an extractor.

Don't heat it with the extractor in the Bleeder.

 

Thanks for the advice. I got a good torch setup, I'll just put the smaller tip on it. Didnt know if anyone had other thoughts for getting it out, or if its a common problem and if people had the anti dive unit that I needed. I've only had to remove one other bleeder this way, but I have to extract broken/rusted/destroyed bolts all the time.

 

The relay-looking thing in the headlight bucket is the diode block. It isolates some circuits from others - for instance, providing the one-way signal from the alternator to the headlight relay to turn on the headlight when the engine starts running.

 

Brilliant! Suppose I should have checked the wiring diagram to figure that out, but figured there was something about this bike that was abnormal (like needing the fuse box replaced).

Thanks for the heads up.

 

Along with other questions about the warning lights and other electrical gremlins, I'd like to know, what the BATT warning is actually indicating. My bike is an '82 750 SECA, but has a build date of 7/81. Is the warning indicating a problem with low voltage? low electolite level? If I recall correctly it's supposed to hook into something in or on the battery somehow (?), maybe into one of the cells? My bike just had a single wire in the area of the battery, with no plug, terminal or anything, so I don't know what I SHOULD have. If I recall correctly the wire is white with a red stripe, but I could be wrong. Bike runs fine now, after a fair amount of work and checking things over, but the constant warning light flashing bugs me. When I push the button on the display twice, the warning light goes out, but returns to flashing after a couple minutes.

On a good note....after a few short shake-down rides, I took the bike out Monday for an "almost" 100 mile, relatively gentle 50-60 MPH ride. I was pleased that when I refilled on fuel it got 48+ MPG. I'm thinking that would indicate that I at least have the bike running close to how it should.

Lynn

 

Yes, the original batteries had a sensor that either replaced one of the caps or stuck in its own hole. That sensor verified both the electrolyte-level of the battery and the charge state of the battery. I'm not sure whether the original style Yuasas are still available or not. Most people defeat the electrolyte-level sensing feature with a resistor setup that you should be able to find using the Search feature up at the top of the page.

 

The Battery Indicator is supposes to monitor the level of Fluid in the Battery.

Most newer Batteries do not have a receptacle for the Sensor.
Therefore the Sensor isn't hooked-up.

Delete the Sensor if you have one.

Hook-up a wire from the Tail-light to the Sensor wire.
Add a 2K Ohm Resistor in the line.

When the Power is turned ON, the Computer will get a Signal that it needs to satisfy the computer and the light will go off.


)))>Tail light >_______>( 2K Ohm Resistor)>_______>Sensor Wire to Panel.

 

Will it hurt anything having that wire connected directly to the battery without the resistor? That's how I currently have it, seems to be working fine but i'd hate to melt anything long term.

 

Go to Radio Shack and buy a Resistor.
Short money.

Send the Integrated Circuit the resisted value that it needs, .... or you risk doing damage to the I-C.

A 2K Ohm 1/2 Watt Resistor costs about: $1.25 each.

Go get the resistor and send a HALF Watt to the Panel

 

Thanks for the solution to the glitch. It's probably a lot better than a strip of electrical tape over the flashing light! Consider Radio Shack on my next shopping list.

Lynn