82 XJ650 Repairs

My recently purchased XJ650 Maxim was inspected only to fail majorly, I cannot afford the repairs a shop prices and will be forced to DIY the heck out of what I can. Currently I am looking at solving these issues

-Front Brake: My front brakes are failing from Mastery Cylinder to Pads. I was told the Master Cylinder window is cracked and failing (I need to inquire further on how) and my brake line is bulging when used and my brakes are dragging. My solution is to buy a Master cylinder rebuild kit if it is going to solve the problem and replace the line with a braided steel line and to replace the pads- Any tips or anything I should know please comment.

-Carbs: My carbs are leaking fuel, My plan was to buy a rebuild kit, most don't include jets, but I am not sure if a re-jetting is needed, I do want to take the current 2 in 2 exhaust and goto a 4 in 1 with a straight and I assume a re-jet so would it be best to buy the full kit? (PS this will be my first re-jet, I have taken carbs apart before for cleaning)

So far those DIY Repairs save me $520-300(leaving wiggle room for OEM Master) on the brakes alone and another $380-320 for the carbs.

This is my first time doing all this work on a bike, But I have semi-professional help. Thanks

 

Congrats and welcome! Doing it yourself is what this place is all about.
Here is everything you need to get started:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-information-overload-hour.27544/#post-233801
It has stuff on the brakes, carbs, jetting for exhausts, everything!
There's a link on the top right corner that is THE source. They know the bikes, and will help you with what is needed.

 

Thanks for the link. I will be sure to post the progress as it comes along. I have mixed feelings about the project but for a $1000 bike I don't feel comfortable spending $2000 for a passed inspection.

 

I have read over the link in the carb and the brakes section, I do have a question, I was told the Master is failing and the window is cracked, do I need to buy the full master or can I fix the issue with a rebuild. I am hoping to start my rebuild soon, I can call the mechanic to clarify what the inspector meant.

 

There are two types of master cylinders . One has a fixed window the other has a window with a clip and an o-ring. Take your cover off and see if the one you have is held in with a clip.

 

Comments:

1. YOU can do it yourself
2. you CAN DO IT yourself
3. you can do it YOURSELF

You're going to spend the money at sometime or another if things need repair. But you can save a lot doing it yourself, and the sense of pride and accomplishment exceeds everything.

As long as you're willing to jump in, we're here to help in case you "get into trouble"

 

Chacal sells replaement sight glasses for the master cylinder.

 

The repairs on the master cylinder are not all that bad. However there are plenty of good used ones on eBay if you think yours is too far gone.

 

Thanks all for the replies. I will be going underway with the repairs soon. My first challenge is the front brakes and I will post picks of my MC (The window is so dirty) I do have a question. Does anyone have a suggestion for a budget front rotor for better stopping power?

 

Logan,
Welcome aboard. The advice given is from active members who know their stuff. If starting with the brakes is a comfortable place for you that is fine because they are definitely a high priority item. The single caliper front brake is unique to the 650 maxim. Imo rebuilding the entire system (brake handle and switch, m/c, ss brake lines, banjo washers, caliper and pads) will give your bike enough front braking. Some members have done a 750 swap which includes two front calipers/rotors. Fwiw many of us suggest starting with the engine, carbs and tank to insure a viable stock configuration before moving to mods. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

 

^Gary speaks true.

My rotor on my 81 XJ650 Maxim doesn't look pretty, but it miced up within spec and after doing what Gary mentions above they grab like a drowning man to a life vest.

 

Upgrading to stainless lines and a master cylinder rebuild will make a bigger difference than switching out the disk, unless your disk is FUBAR. If that ain't enuff, maybe some performance pads are available.

 

+3 on the rebuild. The three things that most motorcycle owners never do is valve clearance adjustments, brake maintainance (just changing pads is not maintenance), and ride enough.

 

Thanks again yall. I pulled her up today in the garage to take some pics of the MC and here is what I got. I'm a go with what yall say and keep my rotor and go for better pads. I have a stainless line picked out and I have chosen some keystone bars to switch to.

 

Hold off on the rebuild. That m/c won't work with the new bars (it's angled to accommodate the buck horn bars). You'll have to source a new m/c. You might also need a shorter brake line from the m/c to the junction.

Gary H.

 

Looks like you have the kind of MC that the window can be replaced on.
Can you see a clip holding it in?

 

Source a master from a Seca or a SecaII.

 

I couldn't see to we'll because the light was real dim. And is there no aftermarket MC I can but to fit the keystones

 

So I am going to need Chacal's help or yall, but I have pieced out my front end/brakes rebuild.
I was going to go with the Biltwell Keystones (5" rise and 13` sweep)
As for the brake parts I was going for the HCP20762 Semi's from Chacal or the EBC Pads, I plan to use the HCP3015 MC for the 650 SECA and a matching HCP9857BLKST S/S line all from Chacal.
If I have studied correctly I should have all the right fitting parts, but I have no idea how to order from Chacal.

 

Actually, Ima go without the Keystones and just do simple Drag bars. I assume I need the same MC and S/S line

 

You can actually use any master cylinder so long as the piston diameter is close to 14mm, and it has a 7/8" clamp that places the M/C level. The brake line lenght will be shorter witha drag bar than with something that has pullback.

[Edited for correct master cylinder size]

 

Start a conversation with him with your list, he will get back to you with a price and shipping options. Once you decide it's just a couple of clicks over on pay pal and your parts will show up in a few days. Pretty simple.

 

Sweet. Well since any will work I found a Nissin w/ the light switch, and all I will need from him is the S/S

 

Well they have a 14mm and 15.5mm, But will that work?

 

I did a typo. 14mm is the stock size on a 650 Maxim.

 

I did some reading and found that out. Thanks though. I ordered my EBC Brakes, a fork seal kit, Nissin M/C, I am gonna order the S/S lines Chacal has. I assume they need Banjos, but they are DOT approved. I also ordered my bars. Last of the parts arrive on the 22nd. That is until I order the Brake line and banjos.

 

The lines Chacal sells come ready to install. All you'll need is either new crush washers, or to anneal the ones that you have.

 

Sweet. saves me 25 bucks and an iffy part buy. Ordering soon, This is gonna be good

 

For members that may not know...

To anneal in this case: to heat with a propane torch and make flat again. Slow cooling (don't dip them in water) will make them strong again. Sound about right k-moe?

Gary H.

 

Close. The process of annealing is to soften the metal. Flatness isn't an issue (the washers will be plenty flat from being squished during assembly); making the copper soft again so it can seal is the goal.
The process consists of heating the washers until they glow a cherry red, then quenching them in water (the copper will harden as it cools otherwise). Copper behaves just the opposite from steel and most other metals when it comes to cooling them for annealing.

 

Just as an update. All parts are in except my Fork seals. Once they arrive the front will be ready. Also my handlebars came in, and one end was left unpainted and wrapped in plastic. Why?

 

It's probably the right side "end" of the bar.....that's where the throttle tube fits, needs a smooth surface to rotate upon. Also, the control switch grounds itself thru the handlebars, don't want paint where it clamps onto the bars, either.........

 

Control Switch?
Is that the engine kill switch, grounds out the ignition?
Alan

 

Well I mounted the bar today. Took lots of work to get that 30yo bar off. Looks nice

 

Yes and no. The kill switch interrupts power to the TCI, and some of the XJ models complete the circuit through that switch via the frame (by way of the handlebars and headstock bearings). You are thinking of how a magneto ignition works (grounding the magneto output prior to it reaching the ignition coil).

 

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/82-xj650-rat-build.74157/
The link is to my new thread for the progress. I wanted to keep this thread for technical questions and help information mainly.
Speaking of help, does anyone have tips for replacing the fork seals (both dust and oil) I wanna try and keep the forks mounted and I have a flat lift.

 

Doesn't take much more to pull one for off at a time to do. Probably easier on a bench, too

 

It's much easier to replace the seals on the bench; as in it's a real PITA to try and do them on the bike, even with a split seal driver.

 

Does anyone have a step by step with pictures or maybe a video. I found a step by step on BlogSpot but the pictures don't work so I am going blind.

 

I noticed this today while cleaning. My front brake goes to some cylinder by the front name plate. Meaning the front line is not one unbroken lone but two connected to this cylinder I have some photos

 

That's the distrubution block where the line from the master cylinder gets connected to the line to the caliper. It serves a purpose (cleans up the line run, and adds stiffness to the system), but can be dispensed with if you really want to run a single braided line.