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82' xj750 maxim repairs.

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Bix, Jul 11, 2019.

  1. Bix

    Bix Member

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    I did pick up a new oil filter, gasket and washers today. Painted up the oil cover a golden yellow. I think I'll go black bike with the golden accessories , calipers and some other items. I had an anniversary edition Yamaha dirt bike ( an 06' 450 yzf ) and I loved the old black and yellow scheme. I'm currently hunting down a seca tank which will be all black with a yellow Yamaha decal of some sort.

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    Took the calipers apart today. Pads were good and all rubber seals seem good aswell. One kinda rusty bleeder valve so I cleaned up the hole and I'll get two new bleeders. Gave them a coat of paint and just waiting for them to dry before install.


    Noticed the tci unit has been swapped with one from 83.. Hmm wonder what that's about.


    IMG_20191011_194641.jpg


    I also have a box of parts and a maxim tank for sale if anyones interested in them. Just random odds and ends that will sit in a box for ever collecting dust if I don't pass them on to someone who'd use them.


    Stock cluster. It all works. Some clips cut off on the back

    750 maxim tank

    Highway leg bar/engine protectors

    Rear tail lamp plastic

    Foot pegs

    Stock bars.

    And other odds and ends I'll look into more.

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    ( These sideways photos are killing my ocd..) I don't know why they upload like that...
     

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    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
  2. Bix

    Bix Member

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    Also got these trim pieces laying around.

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  3. Bix

    Bix Member

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  4. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I assume you mean 83 and not 93 tci. the tci from any of the 81 to 83 650 and 750 will work properly in your bike. even the black box tci will work but has no connection for the sidestand safety circuit.
     
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  5. Bix

    Bix Member

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    Went back and fixed that. Thank you
     
  6. Bix

    Bix Member

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    After receiving some parts from xj4ever, I took a couple hours and got the throttle shafts and butterfly's back in. Thankful I attended church more than usual lately, and took photos.

    IMG_20191016_191209.jpg IMG_20191016_192908.jpg


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    Carb #1 is showing some tiny bit of light through the one side so I'm going to have to adjust that butterfly a tad when I get some more time in the next few days.

    Will be pulling the last two exhaust shims needed for measurements,and placing an order for those shortly.
     

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    Last edited: Oct 17, 2019
  7. Bix

    Bix Member

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    IMG_20191016_190706.jpg

    Nice n fresh shaft seals.
     
  8. Bix

    Bix Member

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    Had some more time tonight as the gf is working night shifts at the hospital. Took another few hours and got the carbs racked back together. I still need to locktite all the main rack screws one by one now that it's all back together and looking square. I aligned them on my glass drafting table Im working on, and then slowly tightened the 16 screws in an alternating pattern, as you would a head or wheel lug.

    Next up on the list in bench synch, and then double triple check everything is good up to this point then continue with needle valves, floats, bowls, diaphragms ect.. I have replacement needles for the diaphragms so those might aswell go on in reassembly also.

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  9. Bix

    Bix Member

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    Also I can't say how much the church of clean has helped me with the advice it gives. Im mechanically inclined and usually take a few photos, and thought ahh I probably won't need this many, but I've looked back at them alot during this and some of the ones I didn't think would help were the ones that helped the most! So take lots and go to church people. I've avoided some timely mistakes plenty .

    And might even have made some I don't see yet until I check it all over again... And again haha.
     
  10. Bix

    Bix Member

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    Today I bench synched the carbs with the method of setting the first one with the idle adjustment to the back of the hole, snapped the throttle a few time and then set the rest to the back of the hole. Went back and adjusted the idle screw to the middle of the hole and then set the others to match.

    After that I went into trying to set the dry float levels. My reasoning for this is that Id much rather do it this way and double check after by a wet float level check to be sure, than to be filling and draining bowls of fuel indoors in my basement, and the carbs won't be back on the bike in a running manner for some time as I have way more on the list. I've been reading thread after thread, and many people are very confused by this method as I was for many hours, and the more I read the more I thought I got it, untiiill I realized I didn't haha.


    What I came out with is when the tang is just about to pull up the needle valve ( simulating when the fuel would stop coming in, that the measurement from the gasket mounting surface to the "bottom" of the float should be 17.5 mm.

    It was very hard to get the carbs on an angle that simulated this, and they kinda just hung down low from the tang on the needle valve, so I raised the float until the tang on the float and the tang on the needle valve made contact because that's the moment when the valve is closed and fuel should stop coming in, correct?

    I couldn't get a photo of this exact process because I only have 2 hands but this is sorta what I was doing. I didn't adjust any float levels yet as I'm still not sure I'm correct in this method and Im not sure they are out of spec even.

    Here's a photo to show what I mean.

    IMG_20191020_133242.jpg

    I would set the calipers to 17.5mm. place on this surface and then raise the float until it juuuust touches the tang on the needle valve. I am getting very close readings to 17.5mm with this method so I'm hoping I'm on the right track.

    When the carbs are on an angle I still have quite a gap between the two tangs. This is what I mean, and floats stay in the same position until they are almost now pulling on the needle valves which is not how I can measure them.

    IMG_20191020_132414.jpg
     

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  11. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    gravity sets the float level flip carbs on hats. the float should be springy measure and adjust , then wet set.
    when you get your first float wet set you can use that height as the next starting point on the next float.
     
  12. Bix

    Bix Member

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    The carbs are on their hats in these photos. Having the carbs on a 30° angle or flat on the hats didn't make any difference in how the floats sat so I measured with them flat on their hats.

    By springy you mean that the tang on the float should be touching the springy dowel on the needle valve when I measure the height?
     
  13. Bix

    Bix Member

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    From what I've read and watched my floats seem to sit low when they are touching the springy dowel.. I'm at a bit of a loss for what it's purpose is since there's a gap between making contact with the open tang that wraps around the float, and making contact with the springy dowel. I'll put the original needle valve back in and see if maybe it's an issue with the aftermarket ones I got with the kit?
     
  14. Bix

    Bix Member

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    After more research I know exactly what I have to do/ what you mean, as there are multiple types of needle valves which all have slightly different dimensions so who knows what height the floats should be for my aftermarket needle valves.

    I'll find The height for one like you said, and then set the rest accordingly, since they are all the same. Now to find some tubing.

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2019
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  15. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    yes if its not touching it its not holding it in place.
     
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  16. Bix

    Bix Member

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    Well the carbs are back together for now. Dry heights set and I'm currently in the process of waiting to buy some stuff for the leveling jig, aka PVC pipe or whatever else seems best to set wet fuel levels. Since that's been done my next task is fork dust/oil seals which I have, and fork oil which I have. What I don't have are the air seals at the top so an order from chacal will most likely be happening again soon! For now the disassembly begins.

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    Wheel bearings seem very okay which is good. Both forks have dark grey hunky crap coming out of them, one even ditched some water first... Glad to be draining them and going over them. I purchased 10w fork oil which I'm almost positive I read somewhere here that, that is what I needed.

    The springs seem to very responsive still, and I don't think I'll upgrade/replace them since a fork swap may very well be in the future down the road, so oil, and seals will be good for now. Head tube bearings seem shot.. very stiff and not smooth. In a video I watched off this site he said the triple tree should be easy to move with a single finger. I don't have the wrench yet to loosen the two nuts holding the stem in yet but I doubt that it's just " too tight " . I'll be upgrading the bearings to the tapered ones if replacing is needed.

    I'll be grabbing some parts tomorrow such as new bolt rubbers for the valve cover , valve cover gasket, and shims at the Yamaha shop tomorrow so I'll also grab a wrench and continue the tear down of the stem.


    P.s the palm bay was free!
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2019
  17. Bix

    Bix Member

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    Check you steering them bearings people! Even if you don't think you need to. IMG_20191102_180038.jpg
     
  18. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    you don't have to worry about loosing any of those bb's :)
     
  19. Bix

    Bix Member

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    Haha that's for sure. Into the trash they went and tapered roller bearing kit was ordered.

    Got my new oil seals in the forks. Gonna paint them and then re install dust seals / new oil.
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    Mocked up the new to me tank I found and cleaned up some other parts as well.

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  20. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    put the lower triple tree in the freezer it will make installing the lower bearing easier
     
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