83 xj750 maxxim stator

having a problem with the bike keeping power right now. i put in a cutoff switch today. ran the bike a bit after a jump. shut it down and tried to start it, but all i got was the solenoid clicking. any suggestions where to start? new stator?

 

just read up and saw it doesn't charge when at idle. ill check it with a multimeter and repost

 

How did you "jump" it? Jump starting can cause damage to TCI if not done right. You can jump from car battery if the car isn't running. Not a got idea to use a start/boost circuit on a battery charger either.
Is it a possibility that you hooked up something wrong while installing the shutoff?

 

I know this is basic stuff, but worth confirming before we condemn any brushes/stators/reg-recs...

First, are your battery electrolyte levels correct?

have you given the battery a FULL charge off the bike? (12.60V 30mins after taking off charge)

Does the battery hold charge for at least a few days off the bike (at least 12.4-12.5V after couple of days taken off charge & not connected).

Also, I'm assuming as you fitted a cut-off you mean not keeping charge when the bike's stood & not started (I.E. you can't be draining the battery starting/stopping/short trips)

Assuming all the basics are right, with the ignition off disconnect your battery ground cable & measure amperage between ground cable & battery ground (don't turn anything on when you do it, could damage meter) Should be only a couple of milliamps, ideally nothing if not running clock/alarm

Provided that test is OK it can only really be the battery that's dead (and would show up when disconnected too)

 

i jumped it with my van. van is not running. i bought a brand new sealed replacement battery. the bike drained it. i need to find out whats draining it when its off. it kills a battery in 3 days if sitting. thats why i put in a cutoff switch. i need to pull the battery and charge it now. but the cutoff is in place till i can find out what is causing the drain.

 

Last check still applies just to 110% prove battery good, and when you (as I guess you expect to) see an excessive amperage between the batt - terminal and ground lead, you then need to work out what's causing the drain.

My closest guess for that, if your wiring is in good shape, would be a failed diode in the rectifier/regulator but I'm not 100% sure how to check these combined reg/rec units, I'm sure somebody who is will chime in though

I guess you could unplug the reg/rec & then re-test the drain, but do reconnect it before starting the bike.

 

Biggy, one of the best ways to shorten the life of a battery is to let it set discharged, so charge it as soon as you can.
you can pull the fuses out and check across the holders with a amp meter and narrow it down a little

 

The stator won't drain the battery. That is one of the few things you can completely rule out.

 

its charging now. if the weather is ok and i have time im going to take my multimeter to all the wiring to figure it out. i also have been reading about the fuse box. mine still have the original. im looking at a few different boxes to use.just trying to find one i can still fit under the seat without taking too much out of pocket. thanks for the help ill keep you posted on the progress over the next week.

 

ok i charged the battery. i put it in a couple hours ago. fired right up. the signals started flashing too so my wiring is ok. after i warmed it up. i wanted to see if the stator would run the bike. so i turned my cutoff switch to off. it kept running till i messed with all the other electrical switches. just need to figure out what is wrong with the tach. ,ight take the advise ive seen on here and just convert it to make it more custom looking. of course i still need to see if i have a short to the tach.

 

Glad to hear it seems to be charging. You switched the cut off with the engine running though?

I know people do this kind of "load dump" on older cars and that's fine as they run points ignition etc, but I'd be careful doing it on these bikes as they have TCI ignition that could be damaged. Glad it proved your stator was working but I'd just advise not to do it again as it's hard on electronics. I'm wonedering if maybe the tach not working could be a symptom of damage already? :?

EDIT-: link here that explains the reasons behind the load dump being an issue http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_dump

 

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/f ... iagram.pdf

 

The key isnt being turned to "p" is it? I know tht would probably kill the batt sooner then 3 days and you would probably see the tail light on but hey I will admit I have done it.Come on guys you have too :? 8)

 

was less than a minute dump. ik it can hurt it but i wanted to make sure. i wasnt getting into a stator replacement or repair.i dont know whats going on with the tach havnt had time to check all the wiring hoping i can get it done sunday. it didnt work when i got the bike.

 

You really need a multimeter. Chance can be expensive.

 

+1, it's not the time of the dump it's the act itself
, if you read the wiki it explains why. Multimeters (even a nice fluke) are cheaper than TCI's

Anyway with luck you got away with it this time but it's worth understanding why it's a bad thing.
And on the key going to "P", yes it's very easily done especially when you're used to Hondas that go "run/off/P/lock" & your front pilot light has a loose connection (No need to ask how I know that!)