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A little popping in the exhuast.

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by alaskazzr, Feb 21, 2011.

  1. alaskazzr

    alaskazzr Member

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    Hey all, so I'm having some running issues. I searched around and couldn't find anything exactly like what I am experiencing.

    My bike, a 1982 Seca 750 with 8500 miles, has been running well. Recently I went to start it, and as usual it fired off nearly instantly on choke. This time though, instead of gaining RPM's as the engine warmed up, it would sort of surge between 2000-5000 RPM. If I took it off choke, it would run down to idle fine, but if I gave it some gas, it would pop and backfire a bit, and then it would die.

    I took the carbs out and gave them a good cleaning. They weren't terribly dirty as I store the bike for the winter without gas in them and gas tank off the bike. But I cleaned all the passages just the same. Float height is set correctly, and there is no evidence of damage within them.

    Thinking the bike was incurring a lean condition causing the popping/backfiring I took off all 4 carb-to-engine boots, resealed them and checked for cracks. I also put a new #3 vacuum to petcock line on, and replaced all the carb sync caps.

    Then, not knowing when/if the last valve clearance adjustment was done, I accomplished that as well. The valves were all within tolerance except for #4 intake which was at .07mm. I have a new shim coming along with new valve cover gasket and donuts. Also, I don't think that this valve is being held open out of cycle since it's not at zero clearance.

    Finally, I pulled the spark plug wires and cranked with them pulled and they had decent spark coming out of them. Then I pulled the spark plugs and they were quite black and sooty.

    Could fouled up plugs be causing the problem? Knowing that this is a wasted spark system, if it's not burning off during the proper stroke could it be burning the remaining on the off stroke causing a backfire?

    Thanks guys!
     
  2. TIMEtoRIDE

    TIMEtoRIDE Active Member

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    Random Q's - why are you running the bike in Feb, and, what is your "winter blend" like ?? Must be a really light gasoline, maybe?
     
  3. alaskazzr

    alaskazzr Member

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    I put the tank back on to run it before I was potentially going to sell it. The gas I put in was new from the pump 87 octane that was going to go in my snowblower. I think there's a proportional amount of B12 intake cleaner in it as well.
     
  4. snowwy66

    snowwy66 Member

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    it might be the b12 cleaner.

    it might be the plugs.

    what you describe sounds like not enough gas. what did you set the floats at???? did you check for wet fuel height. the pilot and main jets are pefectly clean? emulsion tube that the main jet screws into. it pops out throught the inside of the carb.
     
  5. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    My first guess would be you picked up some bad gas.
     
  6. JeffK

    JeffK Well-Known Member

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    Alaska, try this, just for kicks....take a long screwdriver and while the bike is running lay the side of the shaft on the spark plug cap, then slide it down so you almost make contact with the head but do it in a way so you can watch the gap between the screwdriver shaft and the head....you are looking for spark leakage.....check the other cylinders as well. If you find any that are jumping, cut 1/4" from the end of the offending wire then check again.

    Lastly, if your fuel is up to par, and this has come up suddenly chances are that you are running lean somewhere, somehow....check the timing to be sure it's on the money then I would go to your pilot air screws and have a lookie. I've had them get bits of crud in the system and exhibit exactly what you've described.
    good luck,

    jeff
     
  7. snowwy66

    snowwy66 Member

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    he didn't say when he gased up last. might just be old gas.
     
  8. alaskazzr

    alaskazzr Member

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    Ok, well i purged the tank and put 2 gallons of fresh 90 octane in and a dash of HEET in case there was water in there. Not really any change.

    I pulled the spark plug wires and noticed that #1 cylinder isn't really getting that "big fat spark". All 4 plugs look very sooty and fouled like a 2 stroke plug would. I think I am going to buy a set of plugs on the way home and see where that gets me.
     
  9. snowwy66

    snowwy66 Member

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    if the wire isn't getting that BIG FAT SPARK. that's your problem.

    i don't think any of them really get a big fat spark though. :)

    the spark test would be to take a screwdriver and hold it 1/4 inch away from the motor. if you have to hold the screwdriver close to the engine then you got a weak spark. you should have spark up to 1/4 inch from ground.
     
  10. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    All well & good, but if the gas was bad it would have got in the carbs.
     
  11. JeffK

    JeffK Well-Known Member

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    did you do the spark LEAKAGE test yet? This is NOT the same as a spark test, it's to find out how bad your leads and caps are leaking. If, when the engine is running you can hear (and sometimes you can't hear it anyway)any spark ticking, you're leaking....then you need to find out which lead.....that's the whole reason for the test.

    jeff
     
  12. alaskazzr

    alaskazzr Member

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    My spark leads aren't leaking. They are in very good shape actually. Except my number plug cap. It's broken at an angle exposing some inboard. I wrapped it with F4 (silicon) tape and it hasn't caused me any grief.

    I did put 4 new NGK BP7ES plugs in properly gapped. Problem solved, it'll go down to the lowest rev's with no popping or sputtering.

    Thanks for all the inputs guys!
     
  13. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    You should change out the broken cap IMHO
     
  14. alaskazzr

    alaskazzr Member

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    How do you change these caps? Do they pull off and have a pin in them to contact the conductor in the wire?
     
  15. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    They SCREW on and off; the pin you refer to is threaded (self-tapping) and screws into the core of the wire.

    Quite often, removing the cap and lopping about 1/4"-3/8" off the wire and screwing it back on helps immensely.

    The resistors within the caps themselves have been known to work loose as well; if you look in the spark plug hole in the cap you can see two screw slots on either side of where the plug goes. Be sure the resistor core isn't loose in the cap as well.
     
  16. Rickinduncan

    Rickinduncan Member

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    I was out today for a rip. The bike runs fine and has lots of power, but I noticed if I kept the rpms up around 4500, in 3rd gear with the engine not under any load, I was getting some backfiring. If I gave it more throttle I ran fine, but let off on the gas and it started popping again. No missing at idle and no missing when the engine is under strain. I've got a 4-1 exhaust on it. Any thoughts?
     
  17. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    normally indicates a lean condition, what do the plugs look like ?
     
  18. Rickinduncan

    Rickinduncan Member

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    It's in the shop for fork seals. I'll pull them out when I get it back. I was just looking for some suggestions or comments. I've only owned the bike for a month and only filled it once since I've owned it. It might be something as simple as some water in the gas ( which I'm hoping) or the valves being in need of an adjustment.
     
  19. snowwy66

    snowwy66 Member

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    backfiring is an indication that not enough gas is being pulled.
     
  20. Rickinduncan

    Rickinduncan Member

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    Did some searching today on the bike. #4 cylinder wasn't getting hot like the others at idle. Compression in all 4 was around 120, plugs looked good and there was good spark. If I cracked the choke a bit #4 got hot immediately, which leads me to suspect either a dirty jet, or water in the bowl. I filled it full of hi test, added some methyl hydrate and took it for a spin. It didn't seem as bad as before, but I can still get it to backfire some in 2nd gear at 4000 revs if I hold it at that speed for 10 -15 seconds. It won't do it at any thing less than that. If I labour the engine - like 30 kph in 5th gear, I can't feel any missing, which I should do if a cylinder isn't firing. So I'm thinking I'll just try and let it work it's way clean and if that doesn't fix it after a couple of hundred kms, then I'll take it in to the shop and let them figure it out. Any other suggestions or comments? - thanks, Rick
     

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