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Add a generic oil cooler?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by SQLGuy, Dec 27, 2019.

  1. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    I don't know... maybe 40PSI. Certainly a lot less than I would expect to be of any concern for either of these radiators... though the small one looks like it could handle a huge amount of pressure.
     
  2. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    ? would you prime it somehow?
     
  3. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    I don't think it needs to be primed, it will drain each time anyway as here is no check valve in the system. Just enough oil runs though there to help it cool. I guess there is no issues with the oil site window as well. So looks, performance, stop and go traffic, what ever the need it should work just fine.
     
  4. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Went to the local hydraulic shop, where I've had some power steering hoses and such repaired before. They wanted too much (IMO) for the oil lines. So I ordered some fittings and hose from Amazon, and we'll see how that goes. Should be here tomorrow or Saturday, so I'll try to get this part of the project done over the weekend.
     
  5. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    If you have a LP station by you Allies or something of the same, they will make them for you as well.
     
  6. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Oh, Whisler would make them, but they wanted about $85 a piece for 15" hoses. The whole kit from Amazon with a bunch of connectors and 12 feet of hose was $35.
     
  7. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Here's what the parts look like so far, an including the adapter ring I made to fit the diverter to the crankcase.
     

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  8. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Almost there... I hope. Got the M12x1.25 to AN6 adapters for the radiator, and the line kit. Also picked up a Subaru oil filter, for their 2.5L engines, that looks like a great fit.

    However, I'm blocked because the AN10 fittings of the diverter, to the AN10-AN6 adapters, will not quite fit where the fins come off the front edge of the crankcase above where the stock filter cover goes.

    I am going to try replacing the AN10 connectors of the diverter with AN6 ones. The hose kit is all AN6 anyway. I think those will clear. Local parts store should have the fittings tomorrow.
     
  9. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Ordered the wrong fittings from the parts store. I thought they were 5/8 x 18, but they're actually M16 x 1.5. Parts store guy was very helpful, but this is not a part they can easily get. Ordered a couple from eBay... should have them mid-week or so.
     
  10. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Latest progress
     

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  11. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    I think it's done. Need to add some oil and crank a bit to see about leaks.
     

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  12. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Real test will be with it running, but, cranking a bit to move the new oil around I'm not seeing any leaks.
     
  13. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Go for it it won't leak.
     
  14. SQLGuy

    SQLGuy Well-Known Member

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    Still a lot of other work to do before it's running again. Need to finish the spacer plate for the cam position sensor, and add the sensor and two more injector channels to the wiring harness, and make new intake manifold gaskets, and repaint the injectors, and maybe open up the intake ports a bit, and reinstall the exhaust and intake manifolds... Goal is to have it running again by not too far into Spring.
     

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