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Alternator failure

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by MalcolmBliss, Jul 24, 2008.

  1. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    I got bad news about my little project. If anyone can help me locate an alternator for a reasonable price, I would appreciate it. It looks as if the winding burned up for some reason. That's why I had no spark and only intermittent fire for a short amount of time then, no spark at all. Any help would be appreciated.
    Kindest Regards,
    Malcolm
     

    Attached Files:

  2. treybaxter

    treybaxter Member

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    Dont throw your stator away. Does anyone know of a rewinder for these? I spent a few years rebuilding and rewinding myself but that was mostly in the heavy duty and automotive arena. I would think someone out there is rewinding them, but a lot of those businesses have gone by the wayside as you can often get them new from china cheaper than you can rewind them.

    Ebay is your friend. If you dont find the whole thing, just bid on the stator if your sure its grounded out.
     
  3. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    Yes I will look there, I'm sure it will be a turd to change out. *sigh*
    If anyone can help me out, you guys have been the most help i have found. I appreciate that.
    Regards,
    Malcolm
     
  4. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    ALTERNATOR (GENERATOR) PARTS:


    Alternator Stator:

    gp2) OEM new and aftermarket re-wound Alternator STATORS perfectly replace the originals. Rewound stator coils are sold on a "core charge" basis and you must return to us a usable, same-model stator core in order to receive your core charge refund. Re-wound stators will output at least the same current as an original stator, and comes with the wiring harness lead and connector but without the rubber insulator grommet that fits into the generator cover----so save your original grommet!

    NOTE: for best performance, your Alternator Stator and Rotor should be replaced at the same time.


    HCP462 OEM original, brand new ALTERNATOR STATOR, with lead wire harness and connector, fits all XJ550 models.
    $ 429.00

    HCP4148 Aftermarket rebuilt/re-wound ALTERNATOR STATOR, with lead wire harness and connector, fits all XJ550 models. A $ 35.00 core charge applies to this item, and a re-usable, same-model stator must be returned for the core charge to be refunded. NOTE: "re-usable" means it is complete and that none of the core ring plates are smashed or "separated" or splayed apart from each other.
    $ 139.00 + $ 35.00 core charge


    HCP1679 Aftermarket rebuilt/re-wound 19-Amp ALTERNATOR STATOR, with lead wire harness and connector, fits all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, and XJ900RK models. A $ 35.00 core charge applies to this item, and a re-usable, same-model stator must be returned for the core charge to be refunded. NOTE: "re-usable" means it is complete and that none of the core ring plates are smashed or "separated" or splayed apart from each other.
    $ 139.00 + $ 35.00 core charge


    HCP4149 Aftermarket rebuilt/re-wound 24-Amp ALTERNATOR STATOR, with lead wire harness and connector, fits all XJ700-X models. A $ 35.00 core charge applies to this item, and a re-usable, same-model stator must be returned for the core charge to be refunded. NOTE: "re-usable" means it is complete and that none of the core ring plates are smashed or "separated" or splayed from each other.
    $ 139.00 + $ 35.00 core charge



    HCP4153 Aftermarket rebuilt/re-wound ALTERNATOR STATOR, with lead wire harness and connector, fits all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, and XJ900RK models. A $ 35.00 core charge applies to this item, and a re-usable, same-model stator must be returned for the core charge to be refunded. NOTE: "re-usable" means it is complete and that none of the core ring plates are smashed or "separated" or splayed from each other.
    $ 139.00 + $ 35.00 core charge



    Alternator Rotor:

    gp2) OEM new and aftermarket re-wound Alternator ROTORS, perfectly replace the originals. Rewound rotors are sold on a "core charge" basis and you must return to us a usable, same-model rotor core in order to receive your core charge refund. Re-wound rotors will output at least the same current as an original.

    NOTE: for best performance, your Alternator Stator and Rotor should be replaced at the same time.

    NOTE: Due to the weight of alternator rotors, the free or reduced shipping charges offer does not apply to these items!


    HCP4150 Aftermarket rebuilt/re-wound ALTERNATOR ROTOR, fits all XJ550 models. A $ 35.00 core charge applies to this item, and a re-usable, same-model rotor must be returned for the core charge to be refunded. NOTE: "re-usable" means it is complete and has not been physically damaged in any way, the internal threads are not stripped, and the taper shaft bore is not gouged or distorted.
    $ 139.00 + $ 35.00 core charge



    HCP465 OEM original, brand new 19-Amp ALTERNATOR ROTOR, fits all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, and XJ900RK models models.
    $ 499.00

    HCP4151 Aftermarket rebuilt/re-wound 19-Amp ALTERNATOR ROTOR, fits all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, and XJ900RK models. A $ 35.00 core charge applies to this item, and a re-usable, same-model rotor must be returned for the core charge to be refunded. NOTE: "re-usable" means it is complete and has not been physically damaged in any way, the internal threads are not stripped, and the taper shaft bore is not gouged or distorted.
    $ 139.00 + $ 35.00 core charge



    HCP4152 Aftermarket rebuilt/re-wound 24-Amp ALTERNATOR ROTOR, fits all XJ700-X models. A $ 35.00 core charge applies to this item, and a re-usable, same-model rotor must be returned for the core charge to be refunded. NOTE: "re-usable" means it is complete and has not been physically damaged in any way, the internal threads are not stripped, and the taper shaft bore is not gouged or distorted.
    $ 139.00 + $ 35.00 core charge




    HCP4154 Aftermarket rebuilt/re-wound ALTERNATOR ROTOR, fits all XJ1100 models. A $ 35.00 core charge applies to this item, and a re-usable, same-model rotor must be returned for the core charge to be refunded. NOTE: "re-usable" means it is complete and has not been physically damaged in any way, the internal threads are not stripped, and the taper shaft bore is not gouged or distorted.
    $ 139.00 + $ 35.00 core charge




    HCP2559 OEM alternator rotor flanged RETAINING BOLT, correct high-strength, wide flange hex bolt that holds the rotor onto the alternator shaft. Fits all XJ550, all XJ650, all XJ700, all XJ750, and all XJ900RK models.
    $ 4.50



    Alternator Rotor Removal Tools:


    ap7) Aftermarket alternator ROTOR REMOVAL TOOLS, correct copy of the factory Yamaha tool needed to remove the alternator rotor from its mounting shaft (the rotor is a friction fit onto the tapered end of the alternator shaft). Designed to be used in conjuction with the HCP6495 rotor puller tool Attachment Tool listed below. The use of these two tools allows you to safely and properly remove your rotor without damaging either the rotor or the rotor shaft. For all XJ550 thru XJ1100 models.

    HCP1404 Aftermarket Rotor Puller-Removal Tool, screws into the threaded hub of the alternator.
    $ 14.95

    HCP6495 Aftermarket rotor puller tool Attachment Tool, slides into the end of the internally threaded alternator shaft and prevents the tip of the HCP1404 from "mushrooming" the end of the shaft.
    $ 3.95



    Alternator Brushes and Brush Holder Plate:


    s7) Aftermarket ALTERNATOR BRUSHES WITH HOLDERS SET, matched pair of brushes with the metal holders and lead wires. Fits all XJ550, 650, 700, 750, 900, and 1100 models. NOTE: Alternator brushes should be replaced whenever they are less than 11mm in overall length. Factory brushes have "wear marks" (scribed lines) on the brush to indicate their wear limit; these aftermarket brushes also have the scribed wear line. Overall length of these brushes are 17.10mm, with 9mm of length from the wear bars to the contact end of the brushes.

    HCP215 Alternator Brushes with Holders set:
    $ 19.00 set




    abh9) OEM alternator BRUSH HOLDER PLATE,, brown plastic plate that the altenator brushes actually attach to. Although this plate never "wears out", it may need replacing if you end up breaking it off while attempting to remove it. Plate only, hardware not included. The appropriate hardware used with this plate is listed in the next section.

    HCP471 OEM altenator BRUSH PLATE, fits all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, and XJ900RK models.
    $ 39.95




    abh7) Aftermarket ALTERNATOR BRUSHES HARDWARE, an assortment of the correct replacement screws and washers used to mount the brushes to the brush holder plate, and the brush holder plate to the alternator engine case cover.

    NOTE: the large brush plate-to-engine case cover screws are VERY hard to remove.....they tend to "weld" themselves to the case. Please make sure that you use an appropriate size (large tip) JIS phillips screwdriver when attempting to remove them, as they will strip out quite easily. Then you're left with the task of trying to get those tight screws out from a small recessed area, and you run the risk of breaking the brush holder plate!

    And, as always, when you go to replace these brush plate holder screws, make sure that you use some anti-seize compound on their threads!



    HCP1030 OEM brush holder plate-to-cover SCREW. This is the large screw that is very difficult to remove. Originally it had a captured lock washer and flat washer, and was yellow-cad plated; these replacement screws come without the lock waher or the flat washer, which must be ordered separate below, and it is finished in a dark gray phosphorous coating. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. Use 2 per bike. Each:
    $ 1.25

    HCP315 OEM brush holder plate-to-cover LOCK WASHER,, use 2 per unit. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. Each:
    $ 0.95

    HCP2173 OEM brush holder plate-to-cover FLAT WASHER,, use 2 per unit. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. Each:
    $ 1.00




    HCP4190 OEM brush holder-to-brush plate SCREW. This is the small screw that holds the brush metal bracket arm to th brush plate. Originally it had a captured lock washer and flat washer; these replacement screws come without the lock waher or the flat washer, which must be ordered separate below. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models. Use 2 per bike. Each:
    $ 0.95

    HCP6644 OEM brush holder-to-brush plate SCREW. This is the small screw that holds the brush metal bracket arm to th brush plate. Originally it had a captured lock washer and flat washer; these replacement screws come with the lock waher but without the flat washer, which must be ordered separate below. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models. Use 2 per bike. Each:
    $ 0.70

    HCP326 OEM alloy-steel natural finish brush holder-to-brush plate screw LOCK WASHER]/b], each:
    $ 0.75

    HCP328 OEM alloy-steel natural finish brush holder-to-brush plate screw FLAT WASHER, each:
    $ 0.75
     
  5. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    Anyone have any descent used stators available? Just asking if anybody is parting out an old cycle.
     
  6. organizedinsanity

    organizedinsanity Member

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    I have a good used stator and rotor from an 82 Xj650. Bike has 6,000 miles and I only tore it apart as im making it a turbo. PM me with an offer and its yours.
     
  7. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    You should check the resistance of the wires in the rotor to make sure they are in acceptable range:

    Field coils (rotor) 4.0 ohms +/- 10% (all x. 550)

    Just run each of the ohmeter probes to a different "copper circle" (nner adn outer rings) on the face of the rotor to check the resistance.
     
  8. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    Will do, I will check that. I am starting to think it may not be the stator, but rather a pickup coil or maybe even the TCI unit. I don't know. I have no fire at all on the plugs. Checked all switched (sidestand, kill switch) for corrosion and they appear good. I must admit, I'm a bit frustrated. Any helpful advice would greatly be appreciated.
     
  9. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Have you ohmed out the ignition system? Is 12V getting to the coils? What troubleshooting steps have you taken Malcolm?
     
  10. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    I am in the process of charging the battery right now. I need to go get an ohmmeter from the shop tonight and check resistance between the regulator and the Stator as well as the coils. I don't think it's the alternator, sorry to have mislead any of you but I was a bit upset last night. I just want my baby to purr and she's in the middle of a mental breakdown!
    Suggestions would be appreciated.
    Kindest Regards,
    Malcolm
     
  11. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    a) Measure twice, cut once.

    b) Don't take any wooden nickels.

    c) Plant your corn early.
     
  12. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    oh man, no wonder my corn is not doing well!! :lol:
     
  13. treybaxter

    treybaxter Member

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    Take your time. dont misdiagnose things, this will not only cost you time, but also money, and your bike still wont run. ohm out the stator to see if it is grounded.
     
  14. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    Thanks Trey. I will do just that as soon as I grab my meter from the shop.
     
  15. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    Well, it seems that charging the battery made all the difference. IT RUNS!!! I did read the post in these forums about the XJ TCI system being picky about voltages, so I thought that may work. Fully charged, it took a bit of prompting but it fired up after that.
    Roughly but it runs! The idle is quite rough and it takes a bit to rev down after the throttle is pegged while on the center-stand but with some fine tuning, I think it will work out. I cleaned up the stator, the wires holding the fabric type cover over the top of the stator are what disintegrated.
    I still want to check ohms on all parts and I may need help from chacal for the aftermarket petcock that is the simple on-off design. I want to eliminate that vacuum assist fuel delivery to avoid any potential doubt as to whether or not she is getting fuel.
    Thanks to all for your help, though this project is far from complete.
     
  16. 85MaximXX

    85MaximXX Member

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    if your petcock doesn't leak pull the fuel line and flip it to Pri. If fuel comes out sweet now take your vacuum line and suck on it or apply vacuum from a pump. you should be able to make the fuel flow. if you have problems then I would replace with a new one. Biggest problem with the manual ones is if your floats stick and you forgot to turn it off there goes all the gas throught the carbs and into the crankcase.
     
  17. MalcolmBliss

    MalcolmBliss Member

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    Ok, I switched to reserve and got the bike to run, there's not much gas in the tank though I must say the inside of the tank looks quite good. I think I need to run some system cleaner through it and fine tune the carbs so it will idle smoothly. Right now, I think it may be idling on 3 of the 4 cylinders. So I may need to pull the pilot screws and clean those ports.
    Thanks for the advice!
    -Malcolm
     

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