Amal monobloc question

I believe the starting point for the pilot screw is one and a half turns out from full in? Also can somebody confirm that screwing out leans the mixture? Thanks

 

yes that is correct.you screw it in or out when running to get the slowest smothest tickover.

 

In my Haynes Manual for XJ650 XJ750 on page 115 it states 2 1/2 turns out for the XJ650 RJ, XJ650 -11n (UK) and all others are preset with no data given. I believe that the bikes in America came preset with the plug over the pilot screw due to emission/fuel regs that the government enforced. Turning the screws out makes the mixture richer, but check with Bigfitz or Rick on that...

 

He was asking about the Amal Monobloc carb that came out in 1954 and was used on British bikes until Amal went "concentric" in the late '60s.

On that carb, turning the pilot air screw out leans out the mixture, turning it in richens it.

adrian1, you might find this handy: http://www.classicbikersclub.com/files/ ... repair.pdf

Quite a bit different than a CV, but certainly no simpler.

 

This will make me think twice next time I want to complain about a CV.

 

Doesn't look that bad. Interesting that all the jets can be accessed without pulling apart the carb completely.

 

has the bike done a ton of miles? im replacing mine(concentric-72 bonneville) after a while they just need to be replaced i think from a bit of research ive done, mine has score marks on the slides, i can wind pilot air screw in all the way in ,take it out while bike is running and makes no difference? to anything, the new ones (premier) are going to set me back $400 a pair but i spent nearly that replacing everything on my yamaha RD carbs, i would rather new ones i think.heres my old bike,

 

Thanks for the replies. Nice picture of the old Amal. Ken,that's a nice bike!
Scoring of the slide is very common. I had mine re-sleeved a while back and it has cured the erratic running problem.

 

Concentrics aren't quite as primitive or as intricate as the Monoblocs. I have the same carbs on my Commando.

Re-sleeving is THE fix for worn out Amal concentrics. Plus it's about 1/4 the cost of a set of new carb bodies and slides.

 

over here im not sure about prices for resleeving carb's, but i can tell you one thing ,we seemed to get ripped off by most when it comes to anything bike related, only last week a mate of mine had 4 small rubber dampners pressed into an old hub, , 5 min job including setup ,cost $50. how much did it cost to resleeve adrian? did you need new slides, needles,jets etc, one of my float seats looks like somebody took to it trying to remove it, i will keep the old ones and get them reconditioned one day, but do like the idea of new ones,

 

Ken it was a long time ago and I don't think the guy is still around. However, a search on Google revealed there is a retired guy (John Parker) in Melbourne that is good. He can be contacted at ukcarbs "at" hotmail.com

 

thanks adrian,

 

And thanks to YOU. The Norton is getting pulled ahead of my other XJ project bike; I don't know what came over me. All I need to do is pull the timing cover (camshaft seal behind the points is leaking) adjust the cam chain while I'm in there, and fix the seal.

Plus the Isolastics need shimmed and the rear Isos need new boots and mice peed on my air filter cover which then rusted so that needs to be replaced.

I have all the parts; I just needed a kick in the pants.

Since we're in "Other Motorcycles" I don't feel guilty posting a pic or two, this is my "other" motorcycle, mine since mile 1:





It's a reaallly early '74 (Feb) which is why it has fiberglass side covers (with the color in the 'glass, clear gelcoat) which don't quite match the tank (never have) and a '73 pattern seat. It also has the earlier ('73~ish) 850 head with bigger valves and intakes/carbs; and best of all--- it's the last of the right-hand shift Nortons. Every mile, scuff, scratch, nick and dent is mine; the stripes are nearly worn off the tank but it is original! And it can still almost keep up with the 550 Secas. (Almost.)

But that sound! (6K in third gear...)

 

Very cool. Are the warning lights in the headlight shell original?

 

Yes, sir. However, from the factory, only the one in the middle had the little rubber sun shade. I felt it was an oversight that needed rectifying. Note: You can't see it in the pic, but the little rubber sun shades have a neat little rectangular drain slot in them to keep them from filling with water.

Left to right: Green, high beam; Red, "charge" light (run by a "warning light assimilator," reading the output of the generator) and Yellow, either turn signal.

The toggle switch has two positions. Once the lighting circuit is switched on (via the ignition switch) the "off" position (straight up as in the pic) lights up the "Bobby dodger" (running lamp) and to the right is full lights.

Original Lucas turn signals, except I swapped out the stalks in front with shorter ones from a Triumph.

It's coming up on 40 years. None of my four wives lasted that long, not even close.

 

What part of the garden are they in? :twisted: :lol:

 

hey fitz, have ever been tempted to fit a boyer or similar? if no why, everyone i talk says do it , best thing ever, but im not tempted yet personally.

ken

 

Have I ever been tempted? No.

Why? I've SEEN them fail, more than once, leaving the bike stranded.

Neither the Boyer nor the Lucas Rita are sufficiently "robust" IMHO. Maybe if you bought one and before installing it, "potted" the components in epoxy or the like; but for the price you shouldn't need to.

I've never had an issue with setting points and timing.

 

That Norton is a beauty. Nothing beats the look of these old Brit bikes, and they sound pretty good too.

 

Very nice! You can be justifiably proud of that machine.