Another 'Starting problem' thread

So my starter button broke. Not too supprising, it is 26 years old aver all. No big deal, I stole the horn button (and fabbed a new horn button from lexan, it works well!).

Now my bike won't start on it's own.

When I press the start button it turns over once or twice, real slow and the oil light comes on. Sometimes it just clicks w/o the starter turning.

When I had right controls open I sprayed contact cleaner down in there (and in the connector inside the headlight bucket).
The screw that held the starter button cage in was rusted all to he!!. I bought a new one. The cage itself was rusted as well, I used a wire wheel on a grinder to clean it. I also did that to the 'back' of the cage that holds the contact.

The 'start' button simply grounds the starter selinoid, right? If I hear it click (and the starter spins) then full power should be going to the starter? I.e. it isn't likely to be a poor connection in the button.

She was starting great on her own.

She still runs and idles great. I put her on a charger last night thinking it could be a low battery (it seems I had been running the whole day, in stop and go traffic, with my hi-beams on and didn't know), no joy. I'm at work right now, but my next test is going to be to directly short between the two terminals of the starter switch and see if that helps. Then I'm going to try to jump it, maybe it's a battery problem (even if the charger says 'Charged'.

 

I think you have it. If shorting the relay works your relay has gone bad. If it's clicking your button should be fine. It really sounds like battery or starter.

 

Stick a Voltmeter on the Battery Terminals and get a accurate reading of what your Charging System is putting-out above 25-hundred rpm's.

If the Battery isn't seeing a bit over 14-Volts (14.2-14.5V) ... check to see that the Alternator Brushes are still within specs.

Your Alternator Brushes are easily checked. Jusut pull the Cover off and shine a light on them.
Look for the "Wear Mark" on the Carbon Brushes.
Measure them; too.

10mm or shorter ... time for some new Brushes in there.

 

I just replaced the brushes. two or three weeks ago.

I just took a 'smoke' break and took a MM out there.

Keep in mind the bike was on a smart charger last night.

Battery is at 12.7v with the bike off. That seems a bit low to me (Isn't 13.8 'charged' for a lead acid battery?). I'm getting a .4volt drop to the battery side of the solenoid. When I short the solenoid it behaves exactly the same way.

I paid a bit more attention this time. It spins very slow.

Honestly it seems my battery is bad. I wonder if running with my hi-beams yesterday (I think it was just yesterday, that's when I took apart the left controls). discharged it too far. I can't tell where the fluid is in the battery (my eyes just aren't good at seeing small changes in color). I'm going to try jump starting it at lunch and see what it does.

I'm leaving on a 500mile trip...tonight.

 

I'm still betting battery. If fluid is low you could have the issue. 12.7 is not full but should be no problem on a start.

I wouldn't think High beam would do that to a good battery - I run a modulator on, my high beam all the time but my stop and go is limited too.

fill it - charge it and take it to an autopart store to test. especially with a big trip.

 

i have no shame in piggybacking a thread...

i saw the diagram of the AC Generator Assembly on the Yamaha page (i am assuming this is the "alternator"

can you give me a rough idea on where it is located on the bike?

 

Left side. There is a small round cover, thats the starter, towards the front of the bike there is a larger round cover with three bolts (two on top, one of bottom), that's the alternator.

 

Sounds like the batttery to me, too, unless your alternator has quit charging so every time you run the bike it is running the ignition off the battery (which it will for a very long time, but not spin the starter.) Rick is right, you need to throw the MM across the battery with the engine above 2500rpm and get an idea as to the output of your charging system. Battery might be fine and alternator brushes worn out. How many miles are on the bike?

 

12.7 at the battery and .4 less at the battery side of the solenoid.....?
that don't sound right, it's only a piece of fat wire maybe a foot long
something ain't right

 

Tried jumping it. No go. Starter still spins very slow. At the battery terminals I'm getting ~14.3v. 12.7v on a battery that has been sitting all night on the charger seems low. (Thinking outloud here...) but would a bad battery cause enough of a voltage drop, when being jumped, to cause a problem? It could if a cell had went bad.

I guess I can take the battery to the auto store and have them test it, eh? Or should I take it to a bike shop?

I seem to remember some cautions about jumping these bikes, can someone repeat them?

 

Autostore should be able to test. Even bad battery shouldn't prevent jump. I missed the voltage drop on the relay - Polock is right - something bad there.

Did you try shorting the relay? If relay is badly corroded that will bypass it.

 

would a bad battery cause enough of a voltage drop, when being jumped, to cause a problem? It could if a cell had went bad.

no
a car battery has enough capacity, a dead cell wouldn't matter
try jumping to the starter side solenoid terminal
don't start the car, car off, car battery only

 

auto store machine showed bad battery underload. was only to months old. prob due to running with hi beams.

bought new batt (ony 1mo warranty !?!) no joy. now get red light when I press start. I wonder if two problems, bad batt, and safety sys? am on trip, lots of push starting.

~from my phone~

 

Red light? Oil light (red) is supposed to come on for a sec as it cranks

 

After I installed/charged the new battery I tried shorting the selenoid. Lots of sparks, but nothing else. Guess its the starter. The oil light stays on whenever I am holding the starter button. Joy. Guess I'll be talking to Chacal...

 

Yea sounds like starter, pull it and clean it good. Check the brushes - not hard to do at all. The oil light will come on when you press the start and then goes off when engine cranks - I don't think that's an issue...