Anti-Dive Units Rusted? '82 Seca 750

I was replacing my brake lines with some SS braided ones when I realized that both anti-dive bleeder screws are rusted pretty badly. I was going to just pick up a couple of new ones, stick them in, and call it good, but then I realized that there might be more to the issue. Should I worry about rust inside of the actual anti-dive unit? If so, can I temporarily bypass the anti-dive system so the bike will be ride-able while I work on it? I've heard of people putting some sort of fittings on the caliper banjo bolts to block off where the anti-dive lines would go, but I can't figure out what those fittings would be.

 

If you have not done so, it would be a good idea to rebuild the anti-dive units. When people block them off I think typically they just remove the hose, get a shorter banjo bolt for the caliper and make blanking plates for the fork bottom where anti-dive goes. There may be other ways...I am sure others will chime in.

 

Rebuild is in order. Given that most owners never do any service, and that the brake fluid was probably at least 10 years old, the small pistons inthe anti-dive are probably stuck.
You may be OK with just a disassemble and clean, but if you need parts they are all available from Chacal.

Anti dive threads:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/posts/368361/
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/posts/159261/

There are a lot of parts (some very small), but it's not that difficult of a job to do. Just tae your time nd keep everything organized. Work on a clean table with a white towel to help make things easy to see, and prevent parts from rolling away.
Once the anti-dive units are in order, and set to your weight, you may come to really like them.

If you want to bypass them just move the banjo-bolt form the anti-dive and use it to hook up the main brake lines at the caliper. Then use a regular (short) bolt to block off the anti-dive brake line inlet to keep more crap from getting inside.