Basics: Better Headlights

moved this to new thread so my detail questions don't distract from the XJ Basics list.

Good thinking, LL. Would bet many of us would like more light. I for one have been reading 'light' threads but going slow, to be sure I make only simple, safe changes. So I'd like to ask a few basic questions:

1. What headlight upgrades can I make without other electrical change?

Can I just replace w/brighter sealed beam? how much higher power? halogen OK?


2. Can I add riding lights (like LL)? Do I need to add another circuit?

I don't want to overload XJ charging or other electrical system. A new 6 fuse block lets me wire in an added circuit, but would I need to make any other changes if I add fog or riding light(s)?


3. Any tail/brake/turn light improvements I can make without other change?

I read about cool improvements like LED lights, but worry that I would then need to make other XJ electrical upgrades as well. Maybe someday, but right now don't want to overstrain or modify my stock XJ more than I have to.


Thanks for your help. Every armadillo I don't hit at night will owe his life to you.

 

For the headlight they make a replacement mount that uses a standard halogen bulb that I think draws less amps so you save there.

For the retro fit front lights I actually lucked out. The wiring comes all ready to just plug in with a fuse even built inline, just hard wire it to the battery. Hardest part I've had is trying to figure out where to put the switch. I have an idea but I'll know tomorrow and will post a pic. Was gonna do it tonight but did more riding that fixing.......

For the tail light I've seen one that I think I might pick up on ebay. It is an LED light that is basically a circle with a pulse that goes around it; better to catch someones eye. When you hit the brake it flashes the brake light. Looked like a good idea.

Let me know if you are ever up around the north dallas area.

 

Required "Upgrades":

1) Make sure your original system is up to snuff, completely and 100%. Test the alternator output, test the condition of the stator and rotor, test the condition of the battery, replace the alternator brushes if needed, and clean every last electrical connector on the bike.

2) Fix any and all problems as noted from doing your tests.

3) Replace the 1940's technology fusebox with a modern style fusebox.

By the way, cleaning the electrical connectors also means cleaning the contacts and switches INSIDE the left and right control switches on the handlebars, as well as the igntion switch internally.

A 1-volt voltage drop to a load (meaning, the headlight, etc.) which is only an 8% decrease in voltage from standard (12V) reduces light output by 33%. Read it and weep:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... elays.html

That's why it is crucially important that you follow the steps outlined in this article, if you want to both save money AND get the best electrical system performance (and safety) out of your bike.:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/7795/

Otherwise, you're throwing money at the WRONG problem which you're trying to overcome!


State-of-the-Art Upgrade:

2) Re-wire your bike to use relays for the headlight. No matter how well you clean, etc. the wiring connectors, you're going to have a voltage drop to the headlight switch, simply because of the incredible length of wire and the number of switches that the headlight circuit passes through before it gets to the headlight----it's just a poor initial design. What you REALLY want to do is this:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=5827.html

After all that is done, your bike is now a 21st century Electrical Superbike, and if you want to go and upgrade to even a standard 55/60W halogen bulb, you will be getting more than enough light than you could ever want or need!

BTW, the above upgrade is about $25-35 worth of parts (includin wire and connectors; really, the only special items that you're buying are the circuit buss and the relays), but quite a bit of time...........

 

Here's a link to another one I wrote for changing out the fuse block. Not very technical (chacal, robert and ric are great for that stuff!!) but it gives you a few pics to help follow along. Im a visual person.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=9070.html

 

Thanks guys, this is excellent! Exactly what I (and others new to XJs) need to know.

Chacal, I'll go carefully over the good information you (and Bryan) provided. It'll take some time to get all straight and make the right choices, but now I can. Will follow up via PM with questions and when I know the parts I need.

Bryan, where will (or did) you locate your new front light brackets? Of course if you're gonna send pics that will show me.

gracias,
gene

 

My advice is to read the Data Page in the back of the Workshop Manual to understand that there IS a limit to how much of a load you cana put on the electrical system.

The safest and easiest upgrade for some more light at night is:

Sylvania SilverStar Bulb matching the wattage of the OEM Bulb.

Install Blue or Red lights in the Instrument Panel to lower the intensity of the glare from the Instruments at night,

If you add accessories and draw more than the Bike is designed to provide you will start needing Alternator Rotors.

I'd rather not go there. Them Alternator Rotors is expensive.

Stay within design parameters or you'll burn something up.

 

OK the new lights are installed. I connected them to the turn signals in the front and zip tied the switch next to the ignition on the right between the handlebar and the triple tree. Not crazy about the switch but it works. Had to cut out alot of excess wire since it was a car kit and I didn't need 20 ft to go from lights to switch but with a quick splicer I cut it down. Looks good and lots more light at night.

I don't think they will take that much more power from the battery but I was planning on replacing the regular bulbs in back and front with LED and halogen which should cut down on the power draw. Maybe an expert could weigh in here??

 

A pair of 55 watt H4 lamps will draw about 9 amps.

Stock headlight will draw about 4.5 on high beam.

Tail light about 2.

Add another 4 for instrument lights and ignition (wild assed guess).

So you're at 19 1/2 amps without the brake light or turn signals.

Your alternator produces 19 amps.

You're looking at a dead battery in your future.

 

Those Road lamps are going to mess you up. I'm afraid.
You are going to have too much of a load on the Alternator.

I wanted auxiliary lighting on both my 900 and 750. I went and discussed the prospect with a Yamaha Tech and was told ... point blanc ... I would wreck the Alternator Rotor if I tried adding to many amps.

I scrapped the idea and bought a SilverStar Bulb.

Better than nothing!

 

Bummer, they look really cool and give off a ton of light!

 

Rick, my local store sells 7" sealed beam headlight bulbs in std incandescent and Halogen, but not Sylvania. Is the difference enough I should track down Sylvania? or go with what I've found?

any thoughts for/against Halogen?

thanks
gene

 

I think so.
My 900 had a Std OEM Bulb and I couldn't see anything at all down-the-road at night.
I swapped the Bulb out for a Sylvania SilverStar and got a huge improvement.
I could see the lines on-the-road further ahead and it lit-up overhead signs so I could make decisions without slowing down and waiting for the sign to be lighted by the yellow-looking factory light.

Combined with changing my instrument lights to Blue for less glare in-the-face and improved night vision ... I felt safer with the Sylvania SilverStar Bulb.

They come in two wattages.
I went with the same as stock.
You might be able to bump-it-up one if you have LED Tail and signals.

But, the light was far better than suffering through a headlight so dim you couldn't read a map standing right in front of the bike!

 

GC----the silverstar bulbs are meant to be used with a "modular" headlight system, where the bulb is separate (and replacable) while keeping the same (glass) lense capsule unit.

A "sealed beam", such as the one on your bike, has the bulb "sealed" up inside the glass lense capsule, and the bulb is not replacable. Once the bulbs burns out or grows dim, you pitch the whole unit and buy another "sealed beam" headlight.

For sealed-beam headlights, the manufacturer and "brand" name given to the type of light doesn't mean a whole lot; there's only so much that you can do, given the technological constraints of having a sealed bulb. It's 1940's-era technology.

OR......you can swap a 7" round "modular" headlight system into your bike, they will fit inside the stock headlight housing with a little bit of extra pulling and tugging on the hornet's-nest of wiring in there........

Once you get a "modular" headlight, then you have a choice of whose (and what wattage) bulb to use. The "silverstar" type of bulb is one of many different types. There's also the "super white" types and "blue light" types, etc. On all those other types, the word is basically: DON'T---unless "looking cool" is more important to you than "seeing well" at night.

The OSRAM brand of Silverstar bulbs is what most people want. You have to look carefully at the packaging to see who the bulb manufacturer is. SYLVANIA and others also make a "silverstar" brand bulb, and the results (light color, output, and bulb life) vary by manufacturer, according to people who have done the trial-and-error routine.

Just for reference, the original sealed-beam headlight used on the XJ650 Maxim models (bulb says "Koiti" on the glass) is a 40W low beam, and a 50W hi-beam. Replacement sealed beams (various manufacturer names) are normally 50W low/60W high beam rating, and standard "halogen" aftermarket sealed beams are 55W low/60W (sometimes 65W) on the high-beam.

The bikes that originally used a modular" headlight...which, basically, is all the XJ bikes besides the XJ550 (all) and the XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models....used a factory-installed "modular" headlight system that used a 55W low/60W high beam.

The little auxiliary "driving" light used on the 1982 750 Maxim and all 750 Seca models is also a "modular" design light, with a replacable bulb, and it had a wimpy little 35W rating.

Also, as of late, there is recent development in automotive lighting technology which shows some promise (and has recently become approved in the US for street-legal applications):

The "fluting" or ribs on the glass lense of your headlight (regardless of whether it's a sealed beam, or a modular headlight) is what is responsible for focusing and aiming the pattern of the light that is created by the bulb. The semi-round, inside "dome" of the lense hosuing is covered with a mirrored material which aims and reflects the light produced by the bulb onto and through that fluted lense into a pre-defined, carefully engineered manner and pattern. It is the design and architecture of that fluting....size, number of ribs, placement of ribs, orientation of ribs to one another, etc.....that produce the intensity of light output at specific places "out there" (where the light is shining) and completely controls the "how much" and "where" of the bulb's light output.

But if you look at a common flashlight, you'll notice a couple of things:

1) the lense is clear, no fluting or ribbing, at all.

2) on higher-priced flashlights, you'll notice that the mirrored "reflector" of the housing isn't always a smooth "bowl" shape, it may have patterns and folds and ridges or other surface features in it.


That's because there is more than one way to skin a cat, and there's more than one way to create a reflected light pattern from a light source (the bulb):

a) reflect the bulb's light output from a smooth, uniformly shaped parabolic bowl, and then LET THE FLUTED LENSE DO THE FOCUSING, PATTERN-OF-LIGHT DEVELOPMENT, "PLACEMENT" OF LIGHT, etc..........

or:

b) use a perfectly clear, flat, un-fluted LENSE--for maximum light transmission----and use a multi-dimensional, properly shaped and engineered REFLECTOR to "place" the reflected light into a certain placement and intensity pattern


I don't have any experience with the newer style headlights, but just thought I'd throw it out so you know what all the choices are. These "reflector-produced-light-pattern" style of headlights are the ones you see with the clear lenses on choppers and show bikes (they're more expensive), and they exclusively are a "modular" style headlight---meaning they use replacable bulbs-----and they look very aggressive because you can see straight thru the lense, and when the light is off, you are actually seeing the intricate reflector, which has a certain appeal.

 

I bought a GE sealed beam halogen at WalMart for about $8.

It's 35 watts low beam and 60 watts high.

I don't think I've used the high beam but I guarantee you the 35W low beam is way more light than the stock high beam.

 

Thanks Guys, believe I've got it now. Will change tomorrow from OEM to new Halogen.
Later, as I learn more, can get even more modern.

This forum is a life saver - literally - for someone who rides in deer country!


will give your minds/patience a brief rest before asking about tail/turn light upgrades

 

Sealed beam or modular?

I vote you go modular.....................

 

Okay, that raises the basic question lots of first time XJ owners like me must decide.

I want better, safer lighting... the best possible. My tradeoffs include: max lumens, stock alternator limits, complexity of upgrade, and of course cost.

Given those, what do you suggest? My bike is an 81 650 Maxim (OEM sealed beam). I'm fine with modular, sounds great. But Walmart halogen is only 4 miles and $8 away. I was thinking of an immediate sealed upgrade, followed by learning the best next step to get even better light.

To go straight to modular what do I, the archtypical XJ newbie, need to do?

thanks again,
gene

 

Hey Gene, just buy a modular headlight, they might have those at Wlamart too, or if not there, surely at Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, etc. Will set you back about $30-60, depending on the bulbs you use. I sell the modular Hella brand (high end) for about $60 (H4 style bulb included, 55/60W).

But, your plan has merit and for a quick & dirty upgrade, you can't beat Wallyworld!

As far as lumens, don't get fooled by those numbers. When it comes to headlights, it's not just "how much" light, it's "where is the usable light" going? That has to do with how well the lamp is designed, standard vs. halogen, watt ratings, etc. A 55W bulb, regardless of who the bulb mfg. is, is going to put out about the same amount of lumens. How well the reflector and the lense is designed is going to determine whether those lumens are useful and usable in terms of "seeing the road ahead and to the side of me".

Alternator limits: no worries. Not for quite a while.

Complexity. besides the rusted bolts whose heads you're going to strip out when you try to remove the tiny screws (do YOU have a JIS screwdriver kit yet?), it's not difficult, and will take you about 30 minutes or so.

Cost: you cannot afford to buy on price-tag alone.

 

Having installed the sealed beam halogen I see one major advantage to the modular. The replacement bulb is small enough to carry with you and could be installed with just a Phillips screwdriver.

Much more involved task to replace the sealed beam.

 

Well, when I ask for advice and generous experts offer it... I listen!
So I'm changing the plan and going straight to modular.

When I said "trade offs" I meant it. Won't skimp a few bucks when they can get greater, longterm improvement, safety and enjoyment of my bike. In this case I was more worried about complexity of upgrade; didn't want to have to make many other modifications just so I could go modular. But sounds like I can get modular light that fits right into my stock XJ650 headlight housing.

As always, thanks to the XJ Bikes family for a goldmine of good advice from good people.

gene

[Chacal, I'm gonna PM you re: my growing shopping list]

 

Didn't find a complete module yet, only bulbs, in this small town. But Advance did have the Sylvania Rick suggested for only $6.96 so I got one to put in while I find the modular. Then I will give that away to anyone who wants it.

ta very much, mates.

 

If that Bulb is Sylvania SilverStar and you only paid 7-Bucks for it ... you got a DEAL.

"Dibs" for when you give it away!

 

Rick, you're more than welcome to the bulb, but I phrased my post badly. I got -a- Sylvania halogen, but only standard; my dinky town (Bastrop, Texas) didn't have the SilverStar. Nor a round halogen modular unit.

So I'll need to go seek that in nearby Austin, self-proclaimed "Live Music Capital of the World" and home to the famed Texas Lobbydome (aka the State Capitol). Failing a quick find I'm gonna order it from Chacal. He's been so helpful that my new goal in life is to assure him a comfortable retirement.

sorry for the misleading note,
gene

 

I have plenty of regular bulbs.
No problem.
I thought that they might have had them on sale.
That's when I cam back to earth and realized that they wouldn't have them on sale.
They get top buck.