Battery Fuse Blows

I'm currently trying to get my xj700 up and running. Unfortunately, the fuse keeps blowing 10 seconds after I flip the ignition to 'on' position. Oh, the fuse is the 12V 30 Amp coming off the battery. I'm currently looking through the wires, but I'm not seeing issues. Would it work best to unplug everything and slowly plug them in to see what might be causing it? I don't have a meter and have no idea how to use one.

Thanks

 

That's a crude way of doing it and you may regret it if you end up damaging something further!

Check these wiring diagrams http://xjdiagrams.thundervalleypower.com/ and select the one closest to yours.

To blow the main fuse it is likely a cable is shorted to the chassis. Seriously consider buying or borrowing a multi meter as it will help you find the fault.

You will quickly get the hang of using one!

 

If you are Blowing a 30A Fuse, ... you have a dangerous situation.

Battery Power is finding a place to go to Ground.

Since you know that the Fuse Blows when the Ignition Switch is ON, ... Open the Headlight Bucket and Inspect the Pigtail that Energizes the Bike when the Switch is turned ON.

Is the Battery one that "Belongs" in the Bike?
Is the Battery secure?
Is there a "Holding Strap"?
Are the Wires connected to the Battery done right?
If the Battery employs a Buss-type Connection, ... is the Rubber Insulator fitted?

During Trouble-shooting substitute a LOWER AMP Fuse until the SHORT is found.

It's cheaper to blow a dozen fuses than replace fried components or a wiring harness that melts or catches fire.

 

Yikes! Ok I'll check back when I run the ideas you all have posted.

I should probably ask what voltage meter you recommend. I have a feeling I should probably get one, the way things are going.

Thanks so much

 

Get a Multi-meter, ... (Any decent one)

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=4214667

And, ... a +12V DC Test Light.

I like this Test Light because for 12-Bucks it's worth the money.
Durable.
Nicely wired w/ quality clip.
SOUND EMITTING !!!

http://www.rjtool.com/automotive-tools/ ... an-72.html

You may have to do alot of "Wire-probing" to see if there is Current when it should be OFF.
Keep the Tip of the Test Light Sharp.
Slip a length of HOSE over the Probe Shank leaving the Tip exposes to avoid Shorting the Probe.
Cut a piece of LEATHER STRIP to protect your Finger.
Tape it to you finger with Band-aids or Elect. tape. to prevent stabbing yourself and getting pissed-off.

 

Plenty of multimeter tutorials on Youtube

 

The first step:
Inspect.

Open the Headlight Bucket and locate the Pigtail coming-in from the Ignition Switch.
Using a bright flashlight ... carefully examine that lead and plug-in for signs it has been overheated.
Also look around for any obvious wiring with suspicious-looking splices, taped or exposed bare-wire splices.

Then, look-over the whole Wiring Harness for anything that looks like its been altered or add-to.

 

Thanks for all the recommendations.

Ignition is from Yamaha dealer, new Emgo part. Fit like a glove. Original wasn't on the bike.

Ebay wiring diagram is incorrect, they sent me a N/NC instead of the one I bought XJ700XN. We're in transition to swap the correct one with each other. Ugh!

I pulled the whole harness off just to simplify the end to end testing. wires seem good, no faults in any of them reading end to end. My next step is end of wire to ground.

After clearing the cobwebs from my brain, I realized that I changed out the speedometer due to the original one was damaged (cracked wide open). I took the meter back apart and I'm seeing a possible wiring issue due to my own fault. ???



The Head has two brown wires to it. If I'm correct brown is ground.
The Ignition has two red wires to it. No ground.
I think I've totally messed up the wiring. I had great step by step photos of my disassembly, unfortunately I lost them from my phone and PC. Ugh!

Thanks for helping

 

Issue resolved. I have a short to the back tail/brake lights that is causing the short. Thanks