"Before you ride ..." article - RFC

Here is my stab at a first installment for what to do before you ride another mile on that new beauty. Anything you think should be added to the absolute bare minimum before another mile? RFC stands for "request for comments" ...

Alright! You finally did it! You scored a sweet deal on a vintage XJ motorcycle. (Assuming it currently runs) you took it for a spin and the sensation thrilled you. Lots of power, more than you expected, and man can you run up the RPM's. In fact, you are SUPPOSED to rev this baby high. It doesn't like putting around at 2 or 3 K rpm. She really isn't happy until at least 6K … yowser!

So now you are home and you are all excited. But wait! Put the brakes on there dude. You just purchased a 30 YEAR OLD motorcycle. Is she really ready for prime time? What type of care has she had? Been sitting in the garage for the past 10 years gathering dust, etc.? You do want to stay alive and be safe, RIGHT?

There are some things you ABSOLUTELY must do before putting any more miles on that odometer. I know, I know, party-pooper. But do you want to have that party at your home or the funeral home?

There are a number of maintenance items which you simply must check/verify/perform if you want to be safe.

First and foremost are the brakes. What? I don't care about brakes! I just want to ride!!! Well, all rides come to an end and if you can't stop when you need to, you'll stop after you needed to …

First thing: what is the date code on the front brake lines? Why does that matter? Well, they are only made to last 4 years, that's right, 4. So if your beauty has the same brake lines it had when it rolled out of the factory all those years ago, just how much are you willing to bet on their proper function? Your life? Now, some might be tempted to say, “so what if the front aren't great, I still have that nice big disc brake on the rear that doesn't use any hoses.” And, you'd be right, it doesn't use hoses and it is nice and big. However, your front brake is your primary brake on a motorcycle and provides more than 70% of your braking power. In addition, using the front brake forces the nose of the bike down into the pavement, providing substantially more control which the rear brake lifts the nose, dramatically reduces control and is designed to provide 30% of your braking power at best. Are you quite sure you want to rely on that for saving your life?

Oh, and did I forget to say that the rear drum pads on these bikes have a little-bitty problem? After an indeterminate amount of time and/or usage, the original rear pad likes to delaminate – separate the braking media from the piece of metal used to mount it. Driving like this can result in the sudden existence of a large, loose piece of brake pad material floating around your drum, just waiting (maybe a revolution or two?) to wedge into place causing the rear wheel to suddenly halt all rotational movement. If you are lucky, all you have to worry about is a little road rash. If you are very, very lucky.

So let's change those brake lines and replace that rear pad, no matter how little wear it shows. If you don't know for certain it was replaced in recent years, do it NOW before another trip around the block!

As for those brake lines, you can go with the normal rubber brake lines, knowing that you need to replace them in another 4 years, regardless of the number of miles driven, or, for about 50% more (approx $50 per section) you can purchase stainless steel braided brake lines which will out last at least 3 sets of rubber. You can even get pretty accenting colors if you so desire. Now, lots of places sell brake lines, but fair warning: to the best of my knowledge, there is only one place which sells a completely certified brake line ASSMEBLY for your bike – our supporting vendor Chacal. All other brake lines use DOT certified PARTS but their completed assemblies are not certified. In theory, this means that while the coupling attached to the hose and the hose both pass DOT certification – this does not mean that as a unit they can or will withhold the stress required. How well was that fitting seated? How evenly/properly was that hose cut and formed? Chacal's have all been tested and certified as a unit and don't cost any more than the guy's whose AREN'T tested (why didn't they test the completed product?) so why risk it? Chacal does good things for us and keeps our bikes working better than any other vendor out there and goes a long way to even get parts fabricated that aren't available otherwise and he has gone the extra mile of making certain that the UNIT is fully servieable and safe. And his prices are always fair. (No form of payment, compensation or consideration of any sort provided by Chacal or XJ4Ever.com or their affiliates/associates for this endorsement. Simply a satisfied customer)

While you are replacing the brake lines, you already have the fluid drained and everything detached, go ahead and rebuild the master cylinder and replace the front brake pads. We aren't talking big bucks here. Maybe the cost of a couple of tanks of gas to buy the brake pads and rebuild kit. Big deal. Do it now while everything is already apart and rest/ride in comfort instead of reclining permanently in that nice padded box.

Brakes are done, what's next? Well, the next primary critical function of a motorcycle would be the wheels, wouldn't it? You can stop when you want or need to now, how about keeping it rolling when it is supposed to? Like the brake lines, the rubber on those tires is only good for so long before it must be replaced whether they have tread life left or not. Check the date code on the tire. If it is more than 6 years old, replace it. No questions asked, no carping, no quibbling. We are talking about your life here. And none of those cheap tires. If it only cost $25-$50, think about why they are so cheap and if the savings is really worth your life, because like it or not – YOU BET YOUR LIFE! On it. Any signs of dry rot? Cracking? Uneven wear? Not much tread left? Replace it.

How about the wheels themselves? Do the rims show damage? Decent used wheels are surprisingly cheap and again, damaged goods here aren't worth the risk.

Ok, that takes care of the most important life saving things – oh, wait, helmet. I know, not maintenance related. Too bad, you need to hear this: No used helmets. Drop your helmet ONE time and it needs to be replaced. Involved in ONE collision or fall, it needs to be replaced. And don't sell it to someone else. Be cool. Most motorcycle insurance will cover the replacement of a helmet in a collision. If yours doesn't, upgrade to coverage that does. Did you know that helmets also expire? That's right. 5 years old? Replace it. The foam will no longer do its job and properly absorb and impact and protect that soggy grey matter inside your head.

Here is some helmet buying advice. Don't buy anyone else a helmet. You buy them a gift card, but not many sellers will let you return a helmet once it leaves their care and unless your head is the exact same size and shape, you can't reliably try one on for someone else. Little annoyances become big pains quickly. Go to the store and try on different helmets. When you think you found the one you want, put it on, and sit down and spend the next half hour or so reading a book or magazine. Then you will see if there are any “hot spots”, pressure points, etc., which will make that helmet uncomfortable to actually ride with. It is no fun at all to be half an hour into a ride and then to have your ear start burning from the pressure of the helmet, or that ache that develops because it is squeezing just a bit too much on the front of your head and you with another 2 hours of riding ahead of you. In short order, you can't tolerate that thing on your head any more and off it goes. And you become and organ donor waiting to happen. Heads come in many different shapes and sizes and so do helmets. You may find and XL in one helmet that fits great while a L in another feels like your head is swimming in a pot. And those little half helmet things with the spike on the top? Might as well turn it upside down so the spike drives home and ends the suffering quickly. You need a full helmet and a chin strap. Now, some like to have their face exposed with just a face shield (if that). My thought is that if I survive going down on my bike because I was wearing a helmet, I'd also like to have a face people will look at and a jaw with which I can chew food, so I want a full face (modular is my preference due to head shape and glasses).

I used to be an EMT. IF YOU ARE SOMEWHERE WHERE THEY ALLOW YOU TO RIDE LEGALLY WITHOUT A HELMET OR IF YOU JUST RIDE WITHOUT ONE REGARDLESS, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE REGISTER AS AN ORGAN DONOR. Please sign the organ donor card. There are many people who will greatly appreciate and benefit from your freedom. You will literally save their lives.

This is the barest of bare minimum “must do before you ride”. The next installment will contain the “really should do before doing any riding” items and then will come the more complete list of all the maintenance checks you really need to do ASAP.

 

Biff- nice effort. Thanks for taking the time.
I would suggest you reword/clarifiy something in the brake section. Whether you use the front brake or the back brake, the weight shifts forward ('nose down') thus adding weight to the front wheel and reducing weight on the back wheel. That's why the back brake alone doesn't have much stopping power, it is giving up it's traction as the weight shifts forward, adding to the grip the front tire has on the road. It's important for the new riders to understand this principle so they are more likely to practice correct braking.

 

Brakes and a new helmet and let's go riding?

Must not be an XJ.

Because without valve clearance and carb attention, even if it does run, it ain't gonna run for long and/or it will pee gas all over itself, the garage floor and fill the sump up with it too.

And let's make sure we're not off and redlining it on dangerously aged tubeless tires, once it does stay running.

LOTS to do before riding a 30-year old bike. LOTS.

 

Fitz,
I believe we have a bit of misunderstanding here. That the purpose of this installment this is the absolute bare minimum which MUST be done before riding another mile and I stated "assuming in currently runs" which would, by definition, mean that the carbs are operating at at least a minimum level of functionality . Also, the condition of the tires is one of the items I cover in the "must do before riding another mile". I gather you didn't read the entire article?

Assuming that people a) like my presentation and b) agree with the value/priority of the content, and c) find it worthwhile, it is my plan to do two more, the next one being the things you really *should* do before riding another mile and ending with one listing the things you need to address ASAP, but can continue to ride in the meantime. To a great extent I am working from your fairly comprehensive list of todo's and simply providing some priorities and commentary. I am planning on including links to the arguably best write-up for each procedure (for which people are invited to send me their favorites). The second installment will surely cover the things you mentioned above along with some of the others that really should be done before doing any riding. You are probably right that checking for fuel leaks and fuel in the oil are two things which are must do's before you ride another mile. That is what I am requesting: Did I cover the bare minimums and, if not, what others do people see as being such?

 

Oh, I totally agree but also feel that other items, such as tires, fall into the "before you ride another mile" category.

Properly functioning suspension (forks and shocks) SHOULD also be in the same category; you can't stop a "pogo-ing" bike quickly at all.

And from where I sit, if the motor's not right, riding it even another mile isn't a good idea either. My point in that respect was that if it isn't right, it won't run well enough to ride it anyway.

You made a very valid point. But there are a few other vitally important items that should keep the bike "grounded" until they've been dealt with as well. New brakes won't stop aged tires riding on a worn out suspension very effectively at all. It's gotta at least be "brakes/shocks/tires."

The only real way to do this 100% safely is to park it until it's ALL done, and done right. Anything less is flirting with disaster.

 

Fritz,
again, I did cover tires. Any sign of defect, older than 6 years, etc., replace.

As far as shocks go, I haven't a clue how to evaluate the condition of those. Any insight you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Exactly, "isn't a good idea" puts it in the follow-up article: what you should do before you ride another mile.

So, as an add-on to the original:

Finally, what is the thing every motorized vehicle requires to be of use? That's right, fuel. Before riding another mile you absolutely MUST check and make certain there aren't any fuel leaks or problems with fuel getting into the crank case/oil. If you carb floats are off resulting in too much fuel coming out, odds are good that it will be draining into the crank case. (If you aren't getting enough because the floats are too low, then you probably can't keep the engine running anyway.) On top of that, odds are good that the fuel line is also 30 years old, and it is an excellent possibility that its connections are less than ideal. So, check your crank case - sniff the oil port and see if you smell gas and look at the condition of the oil (is it too runny, has it thinned from having gas in the case). Next use smell and visual inspection of the fuel line. If you smell fuel, take the key out of the bike and put it somewhere that you have to think about where to get it, say, your sock drawer under a bunch of sox, and hopefully the fact that you have to think about it will remind you "Doh! Gas leak. Can't ride!" So measure it out and go the the autoparts store near by and get a piece of fuel hose line. While you are getting that, also get one of those little fuel filters the store has for use on things like lawn mowers. Your XJ doesn't have a fuel filter and you need to get one. Install that somewhere in the fuel line where it is as verticle as you can. You really don't want any loose crud coming out of the tank and into your carbs.

 

Ok, well, I think your priorities are in the right place (99.5%+ of people will be served fine by those; not everyone can afford to manicure their bike before it ever meets the pavement), but I think your presentation is a bit too much. Wordy. Inefficient. A bit too cute. When I make instructional things that long, I use lots of bold and highlighting so that people who want to skim or speed read can do so efficiently.

Not that it isn't well written; just not my taste in style.

Also, helmet dropped once and it has to be replaced? Yeah right... I dropped mine the day I got it, and have probably dropped it 4 or 5 times since. I've never heard of someone's never-been-in-crash helmet failing, period. It better be able to take a lot more than a self-weighted only fall 3-5 feet to the ground--if that breaks it, it's not worth wearing.

Bigfitz, to each their own, but 'flirting with disaster' is clearly hyperbole...

 

Umm... no, it's not.

Never crashed a street bike or popped a brake line, have you? How about a car-bike collision when you're on the bike?

Ever had a front tire on a motorcycle go flat on you at 60mph?

It's not hyperbole at all; it's the TRUTH. These are old motorcycles, not old cars. Mechanical failures can kill you, whether you choose to believe it or not.

I speak from experience. Do you?

 

He covered tires. Brake line failures are just pretty rare. Never heard of one, nor has anyone I've asked, and I've been asking around over the last month. Only example I found from a quick google, even, was a guy who was panic-breaking at 100. (If you plan on riding like that, then yes, change your lines).

I'm talking about not having carbs polished yet, for example. Brakes/forks/tires, fine, I won't argue with that, but,

"And from where I sit, if the motor's not right, riding it even another mile isn't a good idea either. My point in that respect was that if it isn't right, it won't run well enough to ride it anyway. The only real way to do this 100% safely is to park it until it's ALL done, and done right. Anything less is flirting with disaster."

It's that 100% or nothing that I'm referring to. Maybe I misunderstood; if you meant ALL tire/brakes/shocks issues, then I just didn't read it right. I took it as your infamous list when I read the word "ALL".

Also, I have been in a bike/car collision, guy cut me off not using his blinker. I was in a hurry that day, so I wasn't being as cautious as I normally am. I know it's serious.