Best way to store bike for winter. Drain carbs or not?

I haven't got around to draining the carbs yet. I usually drain the bowls when I'm done riding for the season. I been going into the garage every 10 days or so and turning the tap to prime to keep the bowls filled. I have stabil in a full fuel tank. I accidentally left it on prime for a week or so and the gas tank is still full. Is it better to drain them or try to keep them full? The garage doesn't get too cold and the battery is in the basement.

 

I don't know if draining the carbs is the right thing or not. I have found with my boat and the roto-tiller it is best to leave them full. If I drain them the film of gas dries to a varnish and causes the float to stick. I ride my bikes enough I don't drain them. Usually they never go more than two months with out running. If you plan to store the bike for longer than 6 months I think you should drain the carbs since it will eventually evaporate leaving a lot of residue behind.
One other note: don't peroidically start them with the intention of getting some fresh gas in the carbs unless you run it long enough to get the pipes and oil up to running temperature or you will leave moisture in the pipes and cause them to rust internally. You will also leave moisture in the crankcase.

 

I pretty much agree with Ron. Sta-bil in a full tank, run a couple miles so it's in the carbs, do the other storage items and don't start it until it's riding weather.

Don't flip it to Prime periodically either. You're only getting fresh fuel into the carbs to evaporate and leave more gunk behind.

 

Okay a lot of different ideas here.... I use to drain the carbs but I had problems with the floats sticking so now I just go out at least once a week and fire my baby up and run it until it idles with the choke off. I also pour 3 oz. of Sea Foam in a full tank before the non-season starts. I also use only Premium Non-Ethenol fuel. I have done it this way for several years and I find I don't have any issues come riding season.

 

I agree i start mine every 2 weeks let them run idle rev a bit ad least 10 min each bike. carbs are 2 much a pain to r&r plus keeps everything lubed up and any water that might be in the tank will mix up and not cause rust. Petcocks fuel petcock seals ect tend to go bad when sitting. Never let it sit all winter with ethanol gas will cause problems get some stabil that removes the ethanol. or get gas without it if available in your area. I have to drive 50 miles round trip to get the gas without ethanol i use it in generators bikes anything that was not designed for it. Last year i learned 2 petcocks 2 bikes carb kits lawnmower carb ect not worth taking a chance. I fill up several 6 gal cans.

 

My winter routine that I've been using for 25 years.

Use a fuel stabilizer; don't drain the bowls. Draining leads to varnishing.

Change the oil and filter. I like to drain the sump for as long as possible to limit the amount of contaminated oil that is left behind.

Plug the intake and exhaust to keep out critters.

Put the battery on a tender, and be sure to check the water level periodically.

Cover the bike, even if it's in a heated garage. Dust builds up quickly, and I'd rather not mess with washing the bike first thing in the spring.

Get both wheels off of the ground if possible. If not possible remember to check air pressure monthly, and add if needed. Allowing a rim to rest on a flat is a sure way to damage the sidewall of a tire.

If you plan on running a bike over the winter, take it out and ride it for at least 20 minutes. Just starting and "warming" the engine does more long-term damage than it does good. The little bit of heat introduced to the engine during warm up will promote condensation as the engine cools, and facilitate the formation of acids in the oil, which in turn leads to pitting. Pitting is bad.

As with all things, your mileage may vary.

 

BAD IDEA. Two main reasons:

You're NOT getting the bike fully warmed up, just because it will run with the choke off doesn't mean it's fully warmed up. The only way to get it truly fully warmed up is to ride it.

Because you're NOT getting the bike fully warmed up, the oil is not up to full operating temp, etc; two bad things happen:

-Any condensation that forms inside the engine will not be completely burned off, and any that is left will contaminate the oil. This can form acids that will eat right through plain bearing shells (like your main bearings.)

-Any condensation that forms inside the "cans" of your mufflers (but outside the exhaust-flowing parts) will pool at the lowest spots and begin rusting out your muffler shells.

You cannot, repeat, cannot get the bike warmed up enough in the garage to completely get rid of any condensation that will be formed by firing it up in a relatively cold environment.

Firing it up periodically is not a good idea. The best practice is to properly winterize it and then leave it alone until you start it up in the spring.

And carbs stored with stabilized fuel in them don't varnish up; you can't GET all of the gas out when draining them and what's left in the tiny passages will turn to varnish.

*k-moe types faster than I do.*

 

Agree with Fitz. My buddy who's been restoring/riding bikes (including some yammies) for 40 years told me the same thing.

 

K-moe covered my "list" with two exceptions: I also "fog" or oil the cylinders; plus make sure all chrome is clean/polished and any "raw metal" parts get sprayed with CRC or similar penetrating oil to prevent "white blossom" corrosion.