bolt type size for forks

I hope I am explaining well enough for most to understand. I had to drill off the bolt heads to get my front forks disassembled. My bike is a 1982 XJ650J. Now its time to put them back together, and I wonder if I am measuring properly. The bolts I need are: M10x1.0x30. as I cannot seem to find a 25 mm length, I can cut the length to the desired 25MM. But the thread pitch in my case, seems to be 1.0 and that is often referred to as extra fine. Can anyone here confirm the size? (I am older now and with one reasonable good eye. I often cannot use my old gauges. I have a helper sometimes to aid with awkward tasks on bikes and to use as my eyes, but alas he has not come back for a couple of weeks now... )
I think I found a source, but it is rather expensive....
https://www.belmetric.com/bsh10x10x30-allen-head-p-4898.html?cPath=6_339_359_907

any help?

 

if you have a manual you will be able to find it in the torque specs

 

I do not understand... the torque specs are not what I need.

 

the troque specs in the manual will identify the bolt its diameter and pitch sometimes the length.
xj4ever.com probaly has the bolts you need, email him and ask email is on the linked site

 

Are you talking about the Allen bolt at the bottom? The "Cylinder Securing Bolt" shown here? I don't see any reference to it in the torque page.

 

Yes it is the socket head cap screw (10mm 1.0 x 25) found in the bottom of the shock that connects the damper to the lower aluminium shock housing. I had to drill the head off the old one to get the shock apart. I have ordered 4 that will arrive Wednesday Sept 9 2015. 95 cents each. I am doing another XJ650 1981 model (non YICS), so I bought a pair for that bike as well. I think if the bolts are not coming out easily, it is simpler to drill off the head and replace the bolt. at slightly under one dollar each the cost is somewhat negligible. What is slightly strange about the bolt is that it is extra fine thread pitch. And no one here in N America seems to have them in the 25 mm length, so a hacksaw cut to 25 mm is needed.

 

Be sure to dress the cut end with a thread file.
Also, I bought 25mm long bolts that size last weekend at my local True Value hardware store. Fastenall will have them as well (they are a wholesaler, but I've never been refused a small order as a walk-in customer). Big Box stores do not carry much of a variety of hardware.

 

I actually bought them from Fastenal... But they didn't have them in stock and instead ordered them in for me. They also said they had no 25mm only 30 mm. As for the length I will have to look into it.... I don't know if the extra length is a problem. I suspect it isn't. As for dressing the end, I would just mount it in my lathe and spin the end

Mike...

 

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The hole is bored into the damper rod, and does have a bottom. Cut the fastener to size. Good on ya for having a lathe. Most people don't, so I tend to reccomend tools that are inexpensive and readily available.
The next time that you find yourself needing a special part, start a conversation with Chacal. If it's an available part he carries it in stock. http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?forums/xj4ever-supporting-vendor.23/

 

And replace the copper sealing washer while your at it !!

 

If I could not find a standardish off the shelf part that costs me 90 cents each.... I would go to a specialist as you suggest. But I hesitate to pay 6 plus dollars for a 90 cent part. It would be a dollar 40 for a stainless steel bolt. But black steel is fine for this task.

Thanks for letting me know about the bottom of the damper.
I have mine here..... somewhere.... Hmmm now where the hell did that part go? lol

BTW I also stated before regarding a hacksaw. That will work fine for the people who don't have a small machine shop. Also if anyone is drilling the tops off (I do that about 50% of the time...), Select a drill size that is approximately the size that will make the allen head inset round... And run your drill at about 300 rpm. As long as the bit is sharp it will cut though in quick time. most newbie drill users will run 1000 rpm plus and the bit simply wont cut... As you get close to the shank, just snap/prise it off the bolt. Then your shocks come apart and you can get the bolt out in a vise type arrangement. If you drill too much you risk damaging the seal surface that the copper washer/gasket rides on.

Anyhow... thanks to all who help both me and others. It is a nice forum full of nice people who are always available to help others. I will try and give back what I have taken...

 

All that, and used motor oil makes for a perfectly adequate cutting oil.
My father was a machinist and I picked up a few things from him over the years, but it's nice to have someone more knowledgeable on the site.
Now you've got me thinking that I might pull the oilcloth off of my little Atlas and make some chips this weekend.

 

this is the bolt that goes into the damper rod? drilling that head off could get you in a world of do-do. the problem most guys have is the damper rod spinning, once you start drilling, should the damper rod spin you've messed up the hex and you can't drill any farther. now what?
save that drilling as a last resort.

 

You still hold the top of the damper rod with the appropriate tool so it won't spin. While I wasn't there, I can assume that the hex was already damaged beyond use. I had to do the same operation last weekend on a Honda Shadow.

 

I might follow up with a notation... It seems the damper rod has enough clearance (in this particular bike but do check yours..) so cutting the length is not needed. However I did need to spin down the socket cap head to a slightly smaller diameter, and at the same time I cut the socket cap head length down to the same size as the bolt I removed. I didn't need to do so as these bikes don't have an axle shaft right below the damper bolt hole as do other bikes.

I thought I would let you all know of some simple machining tasks that can be done with a simple electric drill and a bench grinder.

I will assume you have a 6 inch or so bench grinder and an electric drill. Simply chuck the bolt into the drill, (just a slight tightening is all you really need, so don't squash the threads.... dress the grinding wheel to make it true to the bench grinders motor shaft... Then simply hold it up to the wheel and spin the drill at about 3-400 rpm. To shorten the length of the cap head (if needed) simply spin the bolt in the drill and hold the top of the cap screw to the grinding wheel. Always wear eye protection.

This works reasonably well, and if you like you could make a small drill/bench grinder jig to face valves... You will need an extra fine grind wheel usually not available at your Home Depot, but easy to get from a machine shop supply.

Cost of the Bolts? 83 cents Canadian so that's about 10 cents USD... LOL

I think that since these bolts are made in the USA, the standard head size is slightly different than the standard head size in Japan.

 

I have just purchased an old South Bend 9 inch... I will be setting it up soon to replace the old and tired Craftsman Simpsons Atlas.