Brakes won't bleed

So I'm having serious problems getting these brakes bled. I tried FJ's method and got new fluid through the lines and the left caliper is bled. I've bled a car clutch system but it was very different than this. No air comes out of the left caliper but tiny little bubbles come out of the right one. No matter how much I bleed I can't get a bite on the brakes. Not even a little. I need some serious help here I'm in the dark right now.

Here's a video I'm not sure if the fluid is supposed to do this
http://youtube.com/watch?v=0-zePV3brww

 

This has been discussed so many times it's not funny; and we've ALL been through it.

Do a forum search on "brake bleeding" there are dozens of suggestions.

 

Tried it. Tried everything suggested several times. Left it over night 3 times moved the caliper around, filled it from the caliper's bleeder screw hole. Nothing's doin it

 

The easiest way to bleed brakes is to use a vacuum bleeding kit. Then pull the brake lever. Work great for me all three times.

 

Hi, I'm struggling with brake bleed right now, too. I looked at your video. My newly rebuilt Master cylinder does not do that fountain. I came across a post from this thread:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... rt=15.html
Here's what Rickomatic has to say in the last post:
If you nave a hard time Bleeding Brakes; you have to take a hard look at the Master Cylinder.
See if the Master Cylinder, alone, will Pump-up.
The Master Cylinder is Key.
If those Seals in the Master Cylinder are tired; all the bleeding in the world isn't going to build-up good Hydraulic Pressure.

When the Master Cylinder is working right; there's NO Problem getting the Fluid to move-out and down the Lines.

Fill the Master half-way.
Pull the Brake Lever.
If you see Brake Fluid shooting up in a fountain stream from the reservoir, ... You need to Rebuild the Master Cylinder.
_________________

 

youngster, if you continually get tiny bubbles out of the right one, you ether...
1) still have air in the line
2) you have a leaking seal on the banjo fittings

Did you rebuild the entire front brake system before attempting to bleed 30 year old brakes?

 

The brakes were working fine I just felt like rebuilding my master cylinder and replacing the nasty old brown fluid so i did so but I get no bite whatsoever

 

Did you change the lines too? Once you break into part of the system, you likely will have bugs till you replace/rebuild it all.

Did you remove the MC to rebuild? If so, did you put new crush washers on the banjo bolts?

 

I don't have $150 to spend on lines and I did remove the mc but did not replace the washers

 

I strongly suggest replacing the lines. Cheap insurance, I kinda like to be confident I can stop. As for the crush washers, they are not reusable. The reason they are called crush washers is they crush when the banjo bolts are tightened and create a hydraulic seal. Have to replace them every time the banjos are disturbed.

 

Well I'm currently only getting 5 hours a week so that's $100 every 2 weeks after taxes so I literally don't have $150 to spend on new lines maybe when I startmy new h
Job I'll do that. The crush washers however I guess I can look for at an auto parts store

 

those crush washers are reusable, just heat to red with a propane torch to red, wipe over some 400 paper and put then back on.
but they are cheap enough, i'am just cheaper

 

What should I hold them with ?

 

i just hold them with my fingers but if you have a brain you should use a piece of wire, get them red all over and let them cool in the air, no fair dropping them in water.
congratulations, you've just annealed copper

 

Propane torch ? We always made do with a gas stove...

If you don't have access to a vacuum bleed kit and just want to try a different way to avoid pulling your hair out, locate a large syringe and clear pipe (like battery overflow). Fill the syringe with brake fluid and connect it to the (loosened) bleed nipple. Pump the lever just enough to clear the air in the nipple, caliper and hose and then pump fresh fluid back upwards into the master cylinder by pushing in the syringe. If you have air caught somewhere in the system it should dislodge it. Do the same for the other caliper, but be ready to mop up excess fluid...

It's always good to replace old rubber hoses with stainless, but if you got all the seals the right way round in the master cylinder, the hoses should work okay after the reinstall. Stainless would work better, but until they split - when you'll see the fluid squirting out - they will work with a certain sponginess.

It is possible to make your own brake lines, but it is a bit of a faff and you need some good nips to cut the hose. It is the banjos that are expensive, so two lines from the handlebar are cheaper than using the junction below the headlight. If you're not confident, I wouldn't do it.

 

You can do what I did - start from the hard line closest to the master cylinder. Disconnect it on the caliper side. Cover the open line with your thumb, and pump brake lever repeatedly until you feel some pressure. Hold down brake lever, remove your thumb. Repeat until fluid comes out.

Do this down piece by piece down to the calipers, replacing any crush washers or gaskets you may disturb along the way, and cleaning threads out as you go.

It will now feel much better, especially in comparison to the air you HAVE been pumping. Sadly, this just means you get to actually start the bleeding process. You can now try fun tricks like tying the brake lever down and coming back the next day, and you'll actually pump fluid and air instead of just air.

Also, check your bleeder screws; they can become deformed and leak / allow air into the system.

What all these other people are saying about brake lines and such is true also. You ought to replace as much as you can afford.