Cable Making

Here's a question: I bought a set of ape hangers and a supply of cable making parts. When I go about making my new longer cables, the overall length of the cable sheath doesn't have to be exact, right? As long as its tight between the throttle sleeve and the bracket on the carbs (for example), without being kinked or binding up it will work, right?

I Know I'm just over thinking this, but I don't want to start cutting until I hear from someone who knows more than I do.

 

the cable outer or sheath is purely a guide for the inner cable, which does the work. measure the difference in length between the original inner and outer. as long as you keep this length difference the same the new cable could be half a mile long and still work

 

The length of the cable is not important (well it should reach where it's going to) but the "throw" of the cable should be the same as the stock cable - meaning the length of the inside cable that sticks out of the outside cable housing should be the same length as the old one is. That way you'll have the right amount of movement on both ends and you'll still be able to do fine adjustments on the lever end of the cables. Capeesh?

 

Thanks, thats what I thought guys, I just wanted to hear it from someone other than that little voice in my head.

 

Where did you get your cable making supplies? Also, what's the general procedure for attaching the ends? Are they crimped on or soldered?

 

I got the parts flanderscables.com, and I'm soldering the ends on. I made the clutch and choke cables today, very easy procedure, and the parts were only $45 for the lengths of cable and sheath, the ferruls for the ends and the end themselves

 

That's pretty cool! Care to share the part numbers you used? I have the same bike as you. That Flanders site has way to many options for me to figure out, lol. Pictures would be cool too, if you have any.

I'm also getting ready to put different bars on my XJ750 project bike. I like the idea of making my own cables. Anyone know of a good how-to guide for it?

Maybe you want to post one, Ace?

 

what type of solder are you using? nipples should be silver soldered onto the cables.

 

Throttle Conduit Bulk - per meter 610-03302
Throttle Wire Bulk 1.6mm - per foot 610-03102
Clutch / Brake Conduit Bulk - per meter 610-03332
Clutch / Brake Wire Bulk 2.5mm - per meter 610-03142

Throttle Ferrule 620-20100
Clutch Ferrule 620-20330

Ends
Throttle/Choke - Bar 620-25162
Throttle - Motor 620-25349
Choke - Motor 620-25362
Clutch - Bar 620-25680
Clutch - Motor 620-24298

There's the list of parts I ordered, I used the adjusters for the clutch and throttle from the old lines. And I used Silver solder it costs a bit more, but its worth it, seems to flow out better.

I read a how-to on google, but I can't seem to find it now.
The basic jist of it is to put the cable through the end, then use a nail set to spread out the wire (making it harder to pull back through). apply a flux, and then dip the end into a melted pool of solder for about 10 seconds. I just used a tin can and a propane torch to heat the solder and dip it.

I put a test end on and tried to rip it off, and It wouldn't budge, so it seems like its working great. and like the guys said above, the key is not the sheath length, its the free play in the end of the cable.

 

Awesome, thank you. I think I'm going to give this a go when I get around to my XJ750 project.

Spreading the wire out with a nail set inside the cable end makes a lot of sense. I was skeptical that a DIY system could be as strong as a factory made set up. But spreading the wire and using silver solder should be just as good.

 

I just found this link. It's straight from the Flanders Co.

Cable Making Tips PDF

 

My throttle cable just broke a coupla days ago. She left me stranded on the side of the road. The cable frayed then broke at the exit of the sheath (carb end). I did notice a little resistance in operation before it broke. (I wished I'd acted on it in hindsight). I pulled the cable out, along with the remaining broken end and took it to a local motorcycle/everything else fun shop for repair. Get it back....it's about 5/8" too short. I take it back to them and they begrudgingly admitted they may have made a mistake and they went ahead and fixed it....until I get it back on the bike. The first twist and the cable pulls out of the barrel on the grip end. I'm now wondering if there could be any extra resistance in the throttle shaft rotation. I've worked it manually and it seems just as free as when I rebuilt carbs in the early spring. I'll get the silver solder and some flux and do the dip method on the cable/barrel. I'm suspecting lame cable building abilities at the shop.

 

If you just need solder that will be suitable for this, check Ace or a welding shop for Harris Staybrite solder. It's a silver-content multi-metal solder that uses liquid acid flux (HCl). It works on most metals (copper, brass, stainless, regular steel, etc). Does not work on aluminum... but then, neither do most other solders.