Can u help with this VIN #?

82 xj650 maxim. (8/81 mfg date)

Number on engine:
5n8 007547


Thanks!
Edit; Got it. Thanks

 

http://www.dissingermoto.com/

Use the Shorty field.

 

on right side of headstock the full vin should be stamped in to the metal

 

I've got the short version on the neck too Strange

 

My case and headstock have the shorty VIN punched in. My headstock has a sticker w/ the full VIN.

 

Some of the middle digits are faded and gone on my sticker .

That little program that generates a long from a short doesn't work for me.

This is darn close to what it should be;

Jya 5n800 2 ca007547

I can't tell if it is 810 or 800 though

 

Before that site was made, I went through a lot to try guessing my missing digits. There's one check digit that was hard to guess. It can be a letter or number. I finally was able to discern mine from the sticker, but if you get all but the check digit, you can find some nice DMV employee (there are a few) and see if they'll try all possible values (there are 35 of them). By chance, it probably won't take 35 tries.

 

the 550s are like that for some reason 81 and 82 have short vin on headstock

 

Yamaha had a waiver allowing them to use the short VIN through the end of the 1982 model year. You won't find full vins stamped on the frame until late '82/ early '83, regardless of which model of Yamaha you look at.

 

What is the check digit ? What does it mean ?

 

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/tech-topic-model-id-and-vins.14577/

JYA4H700 -9- -0- -a- -bcdefg

By the way, the "4H7" model ID code is for a USA-destined 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim model, just so you can follow along more easily.

The next 1-position field---position "9" above---is always a mathematically calculated "check digit" that looks at all other positions of the full VIN number, performs a mathematical formula (multiplying, adding, and then dividing according to a pre-determined routine), and uses the remainder as the check digit. This process insures that transcribing errors and forgery efforts can be identified more easily.


Some Other Semi-Useful Tidbits Of Information About VIN's
:
* In order to avoid visual confusion errors, the letters I, O, and Q are not allowed in any position of a 1981-later VIN.

* In order to avoid visual confusion errors, the characters U, Z, and 0 (zero) are not used for the model-year designation (the 10th position); however, the letters U and Z and the number 0 can be used in any other positions of the VIN.

* Although you didn't ask, here is how you calculate the "check digit" that is in position #9 in the VIN:

A) All letters and characters in the long VIN are assigned a numerical value. Numbers, of course, keep their like-value (i.e. 1 = 1, 5 = 5, etc.) Letters are assigned the numerical values as follows:

1 = A or J
2 = B, K, or S
3 = C, L, or T
4 = D, M, or U
5 = E, N, or V
6 = F or W
7 = G, P, or X
8 = H or Y
9 = R or Z


B) A multiplication factor is assigned to each VIN character position:

1st position: x8
2nd position: x7
3rd position: x6
4th position: x5
5th position: x4
6th position: x3
7th position: x2
8th position: x10
9th position: unknown, this is what you're trying to figure out!
10th position: x9
11th position: x8
12th position: x7
13th position: x6
14th position: x5
15th position: x4
16th position: x3
17th position: x2


C) Okay, now convert the 17-position VIN to the numerical value as outlined in "A" above:

JYA4H700?BA101457 (the ? is the check digit we're trying to calculate)

becomes, from the coding routine in "A" above:

18148700?21101457

and multiply each position value by the multiplication factor in "B" above:

1st position: 1 x8 = 8
2nd position: 8 x7 = 56
3rd position: 1 x6 = 6
4th position: 4 x5 = 20
5th position: 8 x4 = 32
6th position: 7 x3 = 21
7th position: 0 x2 = 0
8th position: 0 x10 = 0
9th position: unknown, this is what you're trying to figure out!
10th position: 2 x9 = 18
11th position: 1 x8 = 8
12th position: 1 x7 = 7
13th position: 0 x6 = 0
14th position: 1 x5 = 5
15th position: 4 x4 = 16
16th position: 5 x3 = 15
17th position: 7 x2 = 14


D) Now, add up all those sums from above:

8 + 56 + 6 + 20 + 32 + 21 + 0 + 0 + 18 + 8 + 7 + 0 + 5 + 16 + 15 + 14 = 226

Divide the sum (226) by 11 and note what the "remainder" is:

226 divided by 11 = 20 with a "remainder" of 6.........here, I'd forgotten basic math, too, so here's what a "remainder" is!:

226 divided by 11 is 20.5455, but the ".5455" part is not important. What IS important is that 11 x 20 = 220, and the "remainder" is 6 (because 220 + 6 is = 226). The "remainder" is the amount "left over" when you are using just whole numbers, no decimal places or fractions allowed.........

So the check digit for this VIN is 6:

JYA4H7006BA101457

By the way, if the calculations for a particular VIN leaves a "remainder" of 10 or more, then the check digit becomes the letter "X".

 

so how do you convince the dmv of the waiver?

 

Tell them to refer to this and perhaps take this link with you:

http://www.xj4ever.com/catalog/frame-engine-id.pdf


Before we get down to deciphering a VIN number, let's take a brief step back in time, and recognize that prior to 1981, there was no real set standard for how VIN numbers had to be assigned.....in other words, the VIN Numbers used (by any vehicle manufacturer) prior to 1981 was more-or-less an internal-use number, and could be conjured up in whatever way struck a manufacturer's fancy and served their internal needs.

Starting in the late 1970's, with the proliferation of manufacturers, vehicle production volumes, and international sales, a solution to the "VIN dilemma" was suggested by the International Standards Organization (outlined in ISO Standard #3779, for the ultra-curious), and this standard was adopted and required to be used by all manufacturers that sold vehicles into the USA by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) as of 1981. This is when the familiar, still-used-today 17-position VIN number came into use, and similar structured VIN formats were also adopted by Canada, the European countries, and many other countries around the world.

Prior to 1981, manufacturers could use a VIN number length of their choice, and Yamaha was no exception in this regard. In fact, because of the difficulty encountered with implementing this required 1981 changeover, Yamaha (and some other manufacturers) were granted a 9-month "stay of execution" for their 1981 model-year offerings, where they could still use their older (shorter) version VIN numbers to identify their products.

Thus 1980, 1981, and perhaps even some very early production 1982 model-year bikes use a shorter VIN number that appears on the frame of the bike (more about this later), and may also include a printed paper decal that lists a different (longer) VIN number that is the "extended", 17-position version of the original, shorter VIN number.

Although for the purposes of absolutely, positively identifying your bike for exactly what it "is", the differences between the shorty VIN and the longer VIN are minor---although since the full 17-position VIN number contains more information, it makes the deciphering process a bit less time-consuming, but rest assured that----armed with the proper information---even a "shorty VIN" can be just as accurately and fully de-coded.

 

Having the title helps. You also can work up the chain of command. Honestly, I've never had a problem go any further than asking the counter person to check with a supervisor. That may get harder to do as the people who had first-hand knowledge of the waiver are getting to be retired. You should be able to obtain written confirmation from USDOT.