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carb dip cleaner questions

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by HeckticHaze, Apr 6, 2014.

  1. HeckticHaze

    HeckticHaze Member

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    So I am looking at my first Carb dip procedure. Bought some Berrymanns Carb dip. Instructions on the can say no more than 4 hours for aluminum parts.
    1. Can I use this cleaner on the butterfly valve assemblies?
    2. How long can I keep the emulsion tubes and jets in it?
    3. When you remove anything from the cleaner what do you wash them with?
    4. Do you go back through and run Carb cleaner through all the carb body ports and blow them out with compressed air?
    5. Can you put the springs in this stuff.
    Still to cold here to use this stuff right now. Instructions stating 70-90 DegF for best results. Any info appreciated.
     
  2. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    I just got into the Berryman Chem Dip.
    It has the plastic dip tray, but the side panel says do not dip plastic/ rubber. :?

    It is upper 40's here and I just dipped carb #1 for 30 minutes, with the butterfly valve intact. Heard from a friend that disassembly of the butterfly valve is wise as the seals are 30+ years old and should be replaced. I'm wearing rubber gloves but did splash a little on my wrist and didn't run away screaming. . .

    Took the butterfly assembly apart and re-dipped for another 30 minutes.
    Springs, emulsion tube, jets, screws, everything except the diaphragm, plastic washers and the rubber dust cap.

    Pulled out of can put into a bucket with water and then rinsed with running water.

    Still need to wipe off some areas but the varnish is loose and easily removed . . . perhaps with a warmer ambient temperature it might be more effective.

    I'm going slow with this but certainly plan on blowing out ports with carb cleaner in a can prior to reassembly. (Still putting together my wish list for Len).
     
  3. Bigshankhank

    Bigshankhank Active Member

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    Its a shame Berrymans is they sell nowadays, the old stuff would melt your skin but it'd make a carb sparkle in an hour.
     
  4. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    I use the napa version. I've left stuff in for a couple days when needed. It will make rubber swell and get mushy soft. It will give brass a reddish color if left in for longer periods of time but polishes off, too. I put All the metal parts through it.

    When I remove the parts I spray the ith carb cleaner, then
    I rinse with hot water and tooth brush, and blow passages dry. The heated metal dries quick, and usually set the bodies on my Woodstove to make sure they are really dry before starting to reassemble.
     
  5. tmrastatter

    tmrastatter Member

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    If you leave the butterfly assembly in the carb body, can you soak the body in the dip? Are there rubber Orings on the throttle shafts?

    I just switched gears and I am ready to start cleaning my carbs too and I heard getting the screws out of the butterflies are very difficult (Mikuni).

    Thanks
     
  6. jmilliken

    jmilliken Well-Known Member

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    No, you need to strip the carbs. Dip does nasty things to rubber
     
  7. HeckticHaze

    HeckticHaze Member

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    Thanks everyone for your input. There is no rubber left on the Carb bodies. They are completely striped down. I was concerned with the butterfly valve assemblies because they seem to be steel with a yellow coating that I have seen on fasteners. The pieces that hold the springs and interlock the carbs are rusted pretty bad. I am not sure once I get the rust and oxidation off these parts if I will need to recoat them with something before I reassemble.
     

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