Carb Joint intake boot repairs.

I found several posts about this topic, but my question is, whats the cons to rubbing black silicon over the cracks, then black taping around that? Also, i saw a bike inner tube method that is similar.

These things are tough to find, and the ones on ebay look like they could be cracked too. And if not, they cost way more than my budget allows.

Any real suggestions from those out there that have "repaired" the boots?

 

I have used silicone on the boots to help fill the cracks in. It is mostly a temporary fix and will get you through a riding season. The biggest pain is dealing with the small vacuum leaks that the silicone , tape or innertube won't seal. Patch it as best you can and save for new ones.

 

I would try the inner tube version, that to me sounds the most promising

 

it's probably best to do something before they actually leak. i thinned some "seals-all" with something and painted a few coats on them and they don't leak yet. flex them and let it run in the cracks on the first coat, then do a few more coats.
if they start leaking now i'd use yamabond 4 and inner tube but you need to cover the inner tube, i think UV light tears that rubber up

 

I tried the inner-tube fix, it lasted a season.
Recently I purchased some 2 inch rubber plumbing couplings from Lowe's that had a lip around the edge and 2 screw clamps. I coated the insides with black RTV, slipped them over the boots, then put the carbs back on and placed the screw clamps on(1 secures the carb in the boot and the other seals the coupling to the boot at the back edge). Sealed everything nice and tight with no leaks and the couplings were 1/16 inch thick, so they should last a good while.
Couplings were 4 bucks each + 3bucks for the RTV.

 

Lowes has these? any pics by chance? this sounds promising. I am just in between doing it the right and expensive way and not getting the bike road worthy, or fix them the best way and get it on the road this year.

 

is this what you used?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_23473-34146-RC5 ... lar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=Coupling

I see they have a shielded one? you think that would last longer?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_23462-34146-RNH ... lar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=Coupling

and how did you avoid the nipples for the vac gauge?

Anyone ever use car under body seal?

 

They are not hard to find. Chacal has them at XJ4Ever.
Repairing is a waste of time IMHO. If they are cracked, they are probably hard as a rock.
These are the ones I replaced. These cracks were not evident from the outside and were leaking.

IMAG0384 by buellosaurusrex, on Flickr

 

I used the shielded ones, the lip I was talking about is in the center. I trimmed 1 side down to the lip and got rid of the shield. The lip is to the outside and there wasn't any interference with the vac nipples.

 

I used rtv on my 2 years ago when I girst got my bike running and the seem to be holding up well I just used my finger and spread a nice even coat over them they look nice and don't leak anymore

 

With all the threads on this site concerning idling, mixture, starting and running problems, I find it hard to believe it is so difficult to convince people to shitcan 25 year-old rubber parts that cost around $100.00 to replace, and should last ten years or more, yet they will spend hundreds of dollars on carb kits and everything else under the sun trying to make the bike run right.
They are cracked. This means they are hard and brittle. THROW THEM AWAY! :roll:

 

sometimes the rewards just ain't worth the risks

 

New boots would be the best, but after spending all that money on everything else, maybe he doesn't have an extra 100+ laying around.
This is a good (temporary) low cost fix that will last a while longer than the inner-tube fix.

 

I recently used these: www.lowes.com/pd_23473...o=Coupling along with some hard pvc pipe fittings to replace the airbox boots on my son in laws bike rather than paying 100 bucks for new airbox boots. Cost was 20 bucks and works good.

 

Anyone attacked them with a. Soldering iron?

 

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I do understand this....I was in the same boat a year or so ago.
However, it needs to be understood that any type of repair on intake manifolds should be considered temporary at best and a savings fund for new boots be started right away. When you finally change those old boots ("awww, they ain't that bad") you will be shocked when you compare them to the new ones and find that...d'oh! They were! 8O
My Seca used to be a hard start....always....and I was certain the cracks in the manifolds were only superficial, but after replacing them, I just tickle the starter button and she's up & running. Kinda makes you think. :idea: