Changing Engines--How?

I bought a used 1985 XJ700 Maxum Engine, for it was going to cost me $800 to fix my other one, and this was $600, so I want to swap. But I've never done this. Which forum tells me how to do this? I see so many forums, but not sure where to find? It might be nice too, if there was someone available locally to give me a hand, and I'm willing to pay something reasonable. But I want to do it where I live, and not drop off at any shop. I have all the necessary tools, and done this on a car, but not with a cycle yet.
Greg--Scottsdale, Az

 

if its the same motor (700 to 700) should just be dismantle and install in backwards order with new engine. if its different motor (700 to 550) that would start getting tricky

 

Ok--well, it is the same engine exactly, bought off E-bay, so hope it is an easy swap. I just am not sure how to go about the first steps even--like, can I slide the engine out from the shaft, or does the shaft come off first? I have a CD on the bike I bought from this web site 4 years ago but it is in storage box somewhere right now, so can't go there to refer to it. So if U are still there, tell me about the shaft at least? Thanks for your time......
Greg

 

Remove seat and fuel tank.
disconnect plug wires, enrichment and throttle cables, bungy out of the way.
remove airbox to carb boots.
pull carb rack.
pull battery and battery box.
disconnect engine electricals, (TCI, VR, relay, power at solenoid, oil sender)
remove exhaust and depending on the year of the bike the exhaust collector bracket.
pull back shaft boot, remove 4 bolts, separate the flange from the shaft.
remove oil filter housing.
remove engine mounting bolts. and rotate front frame brackets out of the way.
engine comes up and out, may need a little coaxing at the rear with a prybar to clear the mounts, and dont forget to clear the shaft boot.

I use a nylon webbing cradle like this hoist my motors out:


Start by going around the frame to get the motor up and swung slightly out, then rest it on something and reposition your straps outside the frame for you final pull.


Assembly is the reverse. Dont forget to put your airbox back in first if you took it out, pay attention to your wire routing as you install. If the rear mounts are particularly tight, a 2x4 straight down on the back of the case and a "ford hammer" can help. Sometimes takes a little prying this way and that to get it to seat correctly, a big prybar with a rubber sleave on the end is helpful.

Good luck

 

Wow--that is what I was looking for--GREAT HELP--Thanks!
I now need to find something to hoist with--have come-along, but no overhead thing to attach it to, so will think about that right now, but will find something or somewhere I'm sure--hard to do here where I live now, but maybe a friend's house. I'll keep in touch, here, with you who have done this--sort of a novice here with this. Greg

 

You want to make this even better? Do a writeup! Take lots of pictures, write a step by step narrative, and make a PDF out of it.

Stick it in a free file hosting account, and watch the downloads commence.

People will love you.

 

Acquire a Factory Manual. The Process is outlined Step-by-Step with Illustrations.

On Shafties, ... some guys like to pull the rear-end if they are going swap Plants.
It gives you the opportunity to clean the frame and deal with surface rusting and repainting scratches and such.

Once you get down to the nitty-gritty of having to take the Engine out from the Frame, ... make sure you have adequate help.

There are various techniques employed.
All of them with pros and cons.

Tilting the Bike over and flopping the Plant out onto a mattress.
Helpers lifting the Plant up and out.
Mechanical Jacks and Lifting gear.

No matter what you decide to do, ... Keep the operation well in control.
Having enough help is key.

When you actually make the move that lets sets the Engine free; have help keeping the Frame steady or people assigned to tilt it.

When you are ready to put the replacement Engine back-in, ... have someone assigned to insert a Line-up Tool or a Key Mounting Bolt.

Stuff that makes the job easier.
Leather Gloves
Line-up Tools
Floor Jack
Junk Yard Floor Mats (Kneel-pads, cushion)
Junk Yard Front Seat Belts (Wrap front frame)

 

Before you put the ebay motor in, it's a good time to do a quick valve check while the motor is out and a general tidy up.
Sometimes previous owners tell little white lies about the condition of the item they are selling.
Well, actually they are the biggest, lying pieces of sh*t out there, for a couple of reasons: they really have no idea and think what they are selling is perfect or the ones that are simply dishonest, period.
Lots of people on this forum can validate that statement, from complete bikes to parts bought on ebay and even from local ads.
Sorry, just had to vent there for a second.
+1 on getting a manual before you even take on this job and +1 on the pics and notes (something I wish I had done!). Not only as a PDF, but will make your re-install go a lot smoother, especially if you have to leave the bike during the process.
Good luck and keep us updated.

 

lol, its really just not that big of a deal. The engine is a modular item. Meaning if you arent tearing it apart and just transplanting one heart for another, all you need to do is:

1. disconnect the stuff connected to it
2. unbolt it and work it out of the frame
3. reverse the process.


There is no need for a manual other than maybe to find out torque specs. I think there is some skepticism, but I maintain I can complete a motor swap in no more than a few hours, so long as Im not swapping any covers or fixing any broken studs, or replacing any gaskets.

Also, I prefer to do my valve clearences with the motor in the frame. Its more stable that way.

 

Having a Manual means you already have the answers you'll need whenever a question arises!

Having the right answers.
I guess that's why they print manuals.

 

My experience with many manuals is they are just as good at passing along incorrect information often enough that I have come to treat them as I do doctors. If I cant "heal it" on my own I might consult one on rare occasion. But not everyone has the same level of experience.

 

The difference between a car, and a bike is fewer accessory parts, half as many wheels, and far better accesability.

Same standard process
Remove accessory pieces (carbs, exhaust, coils)(generator, starter can be left installed)
Mark wiring (Take plenty of pics, and notes to help the memory)
Remove the old, install the replacement.

Oversimplified? Yes, but you already know the basics.
Being the first time. Give yourself plenty of time as you figure out all the attachment points for all the parts. Use plenty of penatrating oil on the rusty hardware.


Parts schematics can help you figure out how things go together.
Find them Here.

Ghost

 

Thank you all for such good advice--I just need to get a man to help me now, and maybe some of the tools and helps you suggest--doing it in my father's car port of a townhouse is not conducive to this swap, but that is all I have right now, till I get my own place again in a few months. I will consider all suggestions here--THANKS! Greg B

 

Unique XJ Tools

There's a picture of my Motor Loader in this thread, but the strap method would work just as well.

If you have a garage with an attic ladder, just place a 2X4 across the opening and secure a pair of straps to another 2X4 just below the ladder.

Or use a tree or a solid swingset.