Check out these chutches

So same old story, clutches slip under load. Figured that it might be time for a rebuild so I opened her up and pulled the plates out, to me the plates look like there's quite a bit of life left in theme. But then again this is a first time deal for me so I rely on the advise of friends.

Looks to be about 1/32" of grove left, there are no chunks missing or any abnormalities that I see, the surface is similar to a brake pad, the pressure plates also look real good, one side is shot pein texture the other milled, little to no wear marks at all. Perhaps the PO didn't put in new springs?

 

More often than not its the springs that are the problem. However, as the plates are cheap you may as well replace them anyway. BUT make sure your clutch cable is freely working because it can give the same symptoms - ie it doesn't return properly and holds the clutch very slightly on. (don't ask me how I know! :wink: )

 

And make sure that it's adjusted properly. Are the pressure plates warped?

What kind of oil to you run? There's a known issue with some car oils and wet motorcycle clutches, where the friction modifiers attach to the clutch plates and they can't do their job. Plenty of threads about this on this site.

 

Could these be original to the bike?

 

Clutch cable adjustment was good, just a touch slack.

Running Spectro 4 10w30, didn't check for warp, yet...

 

1/32nd Groove left.
Pad Thickness = 0.03125 on one side
X 2 Sides = 0.0625

Wear Limit = 0.11

Friction Plate New = 3.0mm (0.118".)
Wear Limit = 2.8mm (0.110".)

You got 0.06

You need new Friction Plates

 

Whoa there Rick... The spec of plate replacement.

Excellent answer. Guess I'll be starting the list of things to order from Len.

 

Ever think of changing your forum name to MatHeMatic? :roll:
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

Rick's right, and measurement is usually the best way to tell.

However, in this case, visual inspection tells us those plates need to be replaced. The little friction pads are crumbling, and from the looks of them, those are probably the original plates. (Or really old replacements.)

Clean up your plain plates with Scotchbrite; and be sure to replace the springs too.

 

Don't forget to soak your new friction plates in oil (preferrably overnight) before you install them.

 

Well, some definitive statements to the side of replacement. Once again a green bike mechanic is set straight by the experts. Thanks.

 

When you compare your original friction plates to the new ones you get, you'll see what I mean.

Let me give you some "guts" recommendations: The "aftermarket" friction plates (K&L) that chacal carries are, in my experience, better than the OEM ones. However, K&L's springs are "10% stiffer" which doesn't seem to be necessary. I recommend OEM springs with K&L friction plates and clean up your original plain plates with Scotchbrite.

Be sure you change the springs.

 

While you have all of the whole Clutch Plates out of the "The Basket", ... wipe the Groove~channels of The Basket with a Leg cut-off from a pair of Panty Hose.

Anywhere the Nylons "Catch"... smooth-out with an Oil Stone.

You want the Bosses to be FREE of any Galling. A spot where the Nylons grab, ... is a spot where the Plate wouldn't SLIDE-OVER without hanging-up.

It's those spots where the Nylons Hang-up and impede the free movement of the Plates and Discs that contribute to CLUTCH CHATTER.

A few licks with an Oil Stone will smooth-out the Galling and givie you a Clutch that will take-up silky smooth, ... rather than have a "HITCH" in it.

Likewise, the "TEETH" on the STEEL PLATES that fit those Grooves need to be SMOOTH and not HAMMERED.

"DRESS" any mushrooming with a FINE TOOTH Round File followed by Smoothing-out and Rounding with 800 Finishing Paper wrapped-around the Shank of a Phillips Screwdriver.

CHAMFER the "Sharp, Right-angle" edge, ...to be slightly rounded-off on NEW STEEL Driver Plates if they come "Drop Forged" and NOT DRESSED or cleaned-up by the manufacturer.

 

Now I gotta buy nylons??.... eeep...

 

Nahhhhhhh! All you have to do is stand on a street corner and ask strange women "can I have your panty hose when you're done with 'em"? :roll:
I'm sure if you ask enough, one of them will give you some. 8)
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

Man... So much learnt from such a short thread... Thanks

 

It's the old fart factor.

Except I differ with Rick on one point in the above:

If the plain plates are hammered enough to be mushroomed, they shouldn't be cleaned up with a file and smoothed out; they should be replaced. Putting them back with the teeth hammered means they're going to be loose on the hub, and beat it up worse.

While it is a good idea to clean up any "sharp" edges from the manufacturing process on new plates, one has to careful not to overdue it. A couple passes with a fine, sharp file is all it takes.

One other thought: It's possible for a hub or basket to be unacceptably worn and still not snag nylons. A careful visual inspection and a fingernail can detect "smooth" wear that won't snag anything.

 

I should have added that along with the previous remarks.

It the Drivers are old enough to be hammered without being burned, ... you ARE better-off replacing them.

I get so caught-up with trying to save a buck that it becomes "Penny-wise yet Pound Foolish" I'm afraid.

But the idea I want to convey is, ... even Brand New Driver Plates might need a little Dressing if the Plates are STAMPED OUT and have one side with a Hard Edge and the opposite side nicely rounded by the Cutting Tool that Stamped it out.

By all means, ... treat yourself to ALL NEW Friction And Drive Plates if the ones you take-out of there are beat-up.
Just because they aren't Warped, Scored or Blue ...
Does NOT mean they don't NEED to be replaced!!!

 

So to continue the conversation, I checked the drive plates tonight. They are not warped (I assume warped would be bowed in the middle like a potato chip) and snapped a pic of them for posterity. There is a slight smoothing on a couple but only a little stripe (no digs just a polish) and there appears to be no "mushrooming" on the internal teeth.

 

Jammer, ....

You are using PhotoBucket for your pix.

Please use the RESIZE Feature and save us all from needing to Scroll to see the whole image.