Cleaning Carb Brass?

Should I be putting my pilot jets, main jets, emulsion tube, etc. in the ultrasonic cleaner?
Or should I only be soaking the in carb cleaner then blowing them out with air?

I was amazed how clean all my brass came out last time I used my ultrasonic. But at the same time I was concerned about the wear it caused..

Thank you in advance!

 

I put everything in the ultrasonic cleaner. But I also boil my carb bodies for about 10 minutes, then blaxt all the passages with carb cleaner followed by compressed air. Boiling will melt or soften any varnish and the carb cleaner and compressed ait will get it out. I'll also add any metal parts to the boiling water, excluding the slides.

 

Thanks!

I threw everything in the ultrasonic yesterday. This ended up being the worst carb rack I’ve come across so far.
The metal (aluminum?) of the carb body that is covered by the carb bowl was all corroded with a white calcium like crust which the ultrasonic couldn’t remove. A stainless brush took most of it off, but it kinda defeated the ease of using the ultrasonic..

Regarding that stainless brush I’m beating myself up this morning for a mistake I made so I guess I’ll out myself here:
I really wanted the emulsion tubes out of these carbs because they had very little use - (even though the carbs were crusty they had very low mileage overall.)

To this end I soaked the emulsion tubes in carb cleaner for about 6 hours, then put them in the ultrasonic. They came out clean but discolored. I decided to brush them down but I used a stainless steel brush (brass would’ve been better). They came out LOOKING great, but I examined them closely under a light when I was done and they were all scratched up (fairly deep).

Guess we all learn every day

 

One other question:

Does anyone know of anything that will passively remove the calcium like corrosion I found on my carbs?

 

CLR removes calcium (Calcium, Lime, Rust).
Not sure that is what is on the brass though.
Just don't get agressive too much with any picks or jet cleaners as you can remove brass and widen the openings.
I have been using ultrasonic then picking clean, then flitz polish lightly. DOes not have to be shiny clean and re using original brass is IMO much better than cheap ebay/amazon brass parts from rebuild kits that may or may not be a good fit and to spec.

 

It’s more on the carb body than the brass. Here’s what I was referring to (these have already been through the ultrasonic cleaner):

 

I bought a gallon of SharperTek SC20 carb cleaner. It is supposed to be specifically for use in ultrasonic cleaners and safe for aluminum. It dilutes down, like 1 cup per gallon or something, so it will last quite a while. I've been really happy with the results. You can read more about it on their website and order from there, or from ebay or the other usual places.

It still doesn't give a brand new finish like the old school methyl-ethyl-death stuff did long ago, but should take off the scale deposits you are showing.

 

Believe it or not, I actually did use ultrasonic specific cleaner (alconox).

The past two times I’ve used this cleaner (with a fairly high quality heated Branson ultrasonic machine) the carbs came out looking brand new - the bores actually had a mirror finish. I know the cleaner is fairly strong too because I left some of the hardware in too long during one of the previous cleanings and it ended up completely removed the zinc plating (zinc?). Whoops..
Its also strong enough to make brass look brand new if I leave it in there long enough.

This carb rack was different from all the others though. I think it was submerged in water (possibly salt water) and maybe for a long period of time.

Maybe I will try some CLR.

 

Thank you for all the help with this so far everyone.

I think the corrosion I’m seeing in this carb is Aluminum Oxide. The most common way to remove this that I’ve found in my google searches is vinegar (acetic acid). The downside is that it only removes very light oxidation.

Another interesting option from the manufacturer of the ultrasonic cleaning detergent I use:
https://technotes.alconox.com/indus.../how-to-remove-hydrated-aluminum-oxide-aloh3/
Citranox is an acid cleaner and detergent. I’m going to give it a shot. They also have something called CitraJet which they say is low foaming.

I had a ton of aluminum oxide buildup in my non-anodized brake calipers which I spent a ton of time cleaning. If either of these products work it’ll be a lifesaver on my next brake caliper rebuild on one of these old bikes.

I’ll report back..

edit: I just ordered a sample of each product

 

I just looked up the SC20 ultrasonic cleaner. Looks like great stuff. I think it’s very similar to what I used initially.
The SC20 is described as a “alkaline degreaser”
https://www.sharpertek.com/12decacl.html

The stuff I initially used is described as an “emulsifying alkaline cleaner”

I think I need something acidic to remove the corrosion/ deposits in this carb rack.
“Acidic cleaners are commonly used to brighten or etch metals and are effective at removing any mineral deposits or oxidation on surfaces”
http://technotes.alconox.com/industry/medical-device/acid-vs-alkaline-cleaner/?utm_source=technotes&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=Technotes-Content-Link-Promotion&utm_id=Technotes-Product-Promotion&utm_content=https%3A%2F%2Ftechnotes.alconox.com%2Findustry%2Fmetalworking-precision-manufacturing%2Fhow-to-remove-hydrated-aluminum-oxide-aloh3%2F#0

 

I figured I’d update in case anyone else has dealt with this aluminum oxidation issue in their carbs or elsewhere.

I exchanged emails with a chemist from alconox and he recommended Citranox:

“For removing oxides from aluminum via sonication, we typically recommend a warm (50-60°C/120-140°F) 1-2% solution of Citranox followed by a thorough rinse with water ideally at the same temperature. To prevent flash oxidation as the aluminum dries after rinsing, you may consider either an isopropanol dip or another means of drying immediately.”

They’re sending me a sample which should arrive in seven days. I’Ill update with my impressions.

 

I'm curious how that stuff could work on oxidized fork tubes, side covers and cylinder fins....spraying or brushing versus submerging the part.

 

I got the Citrinox.

To be completely honest it really didn’t do anything more than the original alkaline Alconox did.

Here’s what the Alconox can do for non-corroded carbs. This was the third set I cleaned with alconox original:


The broken posts on this carb are the reason I’m cleaning the corroded carb rack..:





Here’s the corroded set after ultrasonic cleaning with the alkaline alconox first and the acidic citrinox next:




The carbs are squeaky clean… BUT, the corrosion is still there.

Two other items of note:
1) The citrinox changed the color of the brass plugs and tubing on the carbs. It’s hard to see in the pictures but the brass has a pinkish hue.
2) The citrinox brightened the aluminum slightly. But it is possible that a second round of heated ultrasonic cleaning with the alkaline version would’ve done the same thing.