Cleaning the YICS channel

How is the best way to clean the YICS system without clogging the small openings?

 

i ordered the wire brush from chacal and the special pick they have (works amazingly!) put a rag on one end, then sprayed a little carb cleaner in there and on the brush and just worked it in and out, its a tight fit so i used pliers on the end of the brush to get it in and out, run the brush threw several times. continuing with carb cleaner, then finish with air.

brush is great quality BTW, doesnt break off little wires inside the passage

 

Is this brush to clean the YICS chamber or to clean every of the four small passages?

 

for the chamber, and pick is what is for cleaning the passages

 

Yet another shameless plug...

The writeup for Len's YICS tool (The HCP5460 YICS Tool) shows the brush and pick.

 

I just used the wire brush 410 bore cleaner out of my shotgun cleaning kit.

 

It would seem to me that it would be possible to actually push crud further into the passages with the pic.

 

The way I understand it, the crud you're talking about is most likely carbon build-up that would be burned in a flash in the combustion chamber and would do no harm.

I'm more concerned about small o-rings Polock mentioned, I don't know where they are located, haven't seen them in any drawing yet.

 

I think the O-rings go between the head & block, surrounding the passageways? I haven't really looked that closely at my parts book but I'll have a goosey-gander in a second...

 

Go to a Gun shop and buy a brass 12 guage bore cleaning brush, you can also get a 12 guage swab and put a little oil on it to run through after and clean out the lose crud. That's what I use. Its the sort of thing that you can get local and with out the extra cost of shipping. And it works GREAT.

 

One recommends 410, the other 12, there is a pretty big difference in size. Isn't there 16 and 20 guage between 12 and 410?

 

it would be a 410....i own all those sizes, but i wont use it on my bike. thats just me though.

 

The 410 is just that .410 inch the 12 ha is about the size of a US dime, the brushs are slightly bigger . That oring is about 10mm, you can't reach it with a pick or probe

 

I used the 410 brush because it's just slightly bigger that the passage. I would think that a 12 would require more force and I need it to clean my shotgun, I don't own a 410.

 

A Small Bore Cleaning Kit from Army~Navy Surplus is $9.95.

The easiest way to clean-out the YICS Passage is to employ the "Minuteman" method. The Minutemen were armed with Muskets. They had to load powder, push-in wadding and then push-down a lead round to load the thing.

Pulling out a page from history ... use this technique to clean-out the YICS Passage.
Simple to do.
Remove the Hex-plugs from BOTH sides.
Saturate small sections of Terry-cloth, ball-it-up and shove it in one side of the passage.
(Sacrifice a pair of White Athletic Sock)
Using a Wooden or Fiberglass dowel as a Ram Rod ... shove a soaked patch right straight through the passage until it falls-out the other side on to the floor.
Examine the wadding you just fired out the other side of the engine.
Black, ugly-looking, nasty with carbon build-up??? Sure will be.
Repeat the process until you get one falling-out the other side, as clean as it was when you loaded-it in!!!

Once its Clean:
Tape the Carb Cleaner Red Tube to your Thumb.
Stick the end of the Tube in the Passage and Seal the opening of the Passage with your Thumb.
Idle the Bike.
Squirt shots of Carb Cleaner into the Passage.
The Bike will rev-higher as you shoot Carb Cleaner into the Passage you Cleaned-out.

 

Thanks for the tip, Rick. What are we supposed to saturate the Terry-cloth with? Marvel mystery oil? Carb cleaner?

 

Carb Cleaner.

Some guys just use gasoline. (It stinks-up the place).

My Ramrod is a one-meter length of Fiberglass Driveway Marker Pole.

I use the Rubber-end of a Craftsman (Dual) >Rubber//Hard Plastic<< Hammer to drive the Patch through the chamber.

 

Rick, you're taking the fun out of it. Open breech, no powder, no projectile :lol:

 

Interesting.

My YICS passages never seem to be carboned up; the opposite is generally true; they're smooth and white with some gentle white deposits if anything at all. They're on the intake side; when combustion occurs, they are behind CLOSED intake valves.

If you've got gummy, blackened YICS passages, then something is amiss; like I said, they're on the INTAKE side. Generally the stuff going INTO the motor is clean; or supposed to be.

Black carbon in the YICS passage would tend to indicate a leaky valve stem seal on at least one of the intake valves.

 

What do you think these "gentle" white deposits are?