Clicking noise

Can a top end clicking noise be caused by the timing being off? Had to pull the head due to a screw getting sucked into piston. Put it back together. Runs but there is a clicking. Wondering if the timing might be off.

 

Did you ever find out where the screw came from

 

screw was one of those screws from a small hose clamp. Previous owner must have dropped it into airbox. No telling how long it was there.

 

Did you have the valves and head checked

 

Are the clicks random or regular time IE can you count he number of clicks at a certain RPM over a given amount of time

 

Did you see any damage when you pulled the head off?

Here's the thread to the last guy that had the exact same thing happen http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=28746.html

Good luck and keep us posted

 

Did you go back and re-check your valve clearances after you put it back together?

Have you done a compression test since you put it back together?

Are you sure it's not an exhaust leak?

 

Sorry, I've been out of town, but I am still trying to solve this problem. The clicking is consistant with the rpms. After i put it back together and adjusted the shims the gaps are all within the acceptable range. Don't think ist is an exhaust issue. There is oil on the plug so I am inclined to believe someone here who suggested the clicking may be due to damaged rings. There were no score marks on cylinder wall, but he said if the top of the piston is damaged it can pinch down on hte rings. How can I confirm this without pulling the piston?

 

Sorry, I've been out of town, but I am still trying to solve this problem. The clicking is consistant with the rpms. After i put it back together and adjusted the shims the gaps are all within the acceptable range. Don't think ist is an exhaust issue. There is oil on the plug so I am inclined to believe someone here who suggested the clicking may be due to damaged rings. There were no score marks on cylinder wall, but he said if the top of the piston is damaged it can pinch down on hte rings. How can I confirm this without pulling the piston?

 

Could you see any marks on the piston? Have you noticed any negative power differences? It's usually best to check the cheapest things first, a small exhaust leak sounds likely if the piston looked fine. Sharp edges from damage or carbon build up can cause hot spots that may cause detonation problems. But it would be noticeable on a ride.

 

So I just read the thread from your trials before. What a PITA. Oil on the plug could be from a bad valve seal. But with all the marks in that hole a bent valve would not be out of the question. Time and money fix all problems, a used motor might be the answer. And after all you could part out the old one. Sorry!

 

Would a bent valve cause the clicking? How hard is it to change out a valve?

 

gotta sign off for today, but thnx for the help. I'll return tomorrow.

 

Is ther any way to remove a valve without special tools?

 

Here is a real good option for you. Stop thinking about that beat up head and get this one from Ebay #350125846157, Seller says 13000 miles and free shipping all for 150.00. Then all you need is a piston , 4 ring sets , gasket set and you'll have something to do this winter.

 

Define "special." You need a valve spring compressor like the two in the middle of this page: http://sykes-pickavant.com/Portals/0/PD ... essors.pdf

Note the "accessories" for the #03950000 for "multivalve engines." See the three adapters in the pic. The one on the right is the type you would use.

Now, let's think outside the box. What if you took a cheap deepwell socket of the appropriate diameter to a local machine shop and had them turn it into something that looks like the adapter pieces in the pic? If you put a nice thick washer on the head of the valve and used a conventional c-clamp on your modified socket, you would have a tool bearing a remarkable resemblance to the ones in the catalog... for a heck of a lot less than $100+

The "paddle type" spring compressors as shown on the very top and bottom of that page are not applicable to our engines.

 

A lot depends on what you find when you get to evaluate the damage.

You might need MORE than a Head.
You might need the Bore saved by having it Machined to an Oversize.
Maybe.

But that Ebay Head isn't a whole Head:
The description says, ...

"You are bidding on a cylinder head removed from a 1985 Maxim XJ700 with 13616 original miles.
The head is in good working condition.
The valve cover, cams, shims, and buckets are being sold separately.
Thank you for looking, and good luck bidding!!!"

 

Since this member already has a complete head. He can re-use his cams, buckets and shims. He would need to make sure the seller sends the cam caps along so he can get the cams in right. I would pop for that head in a heart beat rather than spend money at a machine shop to mess with a head that ate a bolt. The only thing to do beyond that is get the damaged piston out and replace with a good used one or new if he wishes and fresh rings and gaskets and it would be good to go.
If I were to bet the machine shop would want more than 150 to take apart, clean it, valve job it and resurface. Then if the shop were to bolt the cams in and set the clearances (most shops grind the tops of the valve stems) would be double that.

 

A friend of mine has a head off a 750. It appears to be the same . Does anyone know if the heads from a 700 and 750 are compatible? The ebay deal sounds good, but I can get this head from my friend for alot less.

 

I could not be sure about that one. You would need to set them side by side and look over very closely. Keep in mind you never know what the factory may have changed from a 750 to a 700 machining wise. Castings can look the same but there could be slight differences.
This would be a great question for chacal to look into. PM Len to see what he thinks. That would be the best thing I could suggest.

Also when I was looking for that head. There was a set of used pistons for 36.00 on e-bay also.

Hope that helps