Clutch galling.

What do you think of this?
The clutch grabs when the bike is cold going from neutral to 1st gear.
Bit like an old truck grinding gears.
Does this look like the cause of it?

 

Might not be the whole problem but it's not helping.
Are those marks very deep?

 

The marks on the boss are quite noticeable and running a finger along them it feels lumpy.

The marks on the basket side are almost only cosmetic and you can't really feel them at all.

The clutch plates and springs were replaced about a year ago(slipping on acceleration) and the clutch works great, after the bike is hot.

In the manual it says 'de-burr light galling' and whilst I'm not afraid to take a file to it I'm not sure if this is what it means... what do you reckon?

 

could still be adjustment or cable or oil but that's not where your at right now.
i don't like files for that kind of thing, it's too hard to keep them flat to the surface that many times and they plug up on aluminum.
i did one once with a piece of wood shaped like the groves \_/ .
so it fit with a thin strip of 400 sandpaper under it. change the paper after 4 or 5 groves and don't try to get it perfect the first time, go over it twice. don't try to make it perfect, just better.
your fingers will be sore

 

Aah good point on the clogging files!

I'll give the sandpapering a go for sure. Sounds like my wood working skills are going to be put to a test again...

The actual sensation is like the clutch is locked so...
1. if i leave it on the centrestand and while its idling put it into first gear
then
2. pull the clutch
then
3. hit the rear brake after its spinning the rear wheel
you can feel/hear a crack/snap/clunk type effect as the clutch lets go.
At that point the clutch works fine so its almost like the plates are gluing together overnight. If you know what I mean... maybe something else going on also?

I'm using the standard non-synthetic GTX oil also btw.

 

"I'm using the standard non-synthetic GTX oil also btw."


Arggggh.... you need to get that outa there and use a non-synthetic bike specific oil.

 

Run a swath of Panty Hose over those marks.
If you snag threads, ... that trouble.

You might have just needed an adjustment.
An improperly adjusted clutch makes gear changing, finding neutral and clunking into gear a common problem.

Lightly galled clutch bosses can be repaired by running a sharpening stone over the galling marks.

::: TIP :::

There is a DREMEL Sharpening Bit that will Do BOTH halves.
Narrow enough to fit the channel.
You need the Flex Wand Extension and the Small Collet for the Chuck.

 

that sound kind of extreme but if the plates are getting hung up on those lumps i guess that's what it would do.
did the middle drive damper look alright? i've never taken one apart but people have mentioned a clunk that could be caused by it while letting the clutch out. the clunk is the only thing common to what you have

 

Adrian - I thought the oil was ideal... can't remember where I read it but I've made sure I was using Castrol GTX 20/40W in this bike with the understanding that it wouldn't embed anything into my clutch plates and make them slip. Isn't motorcycle specific oil just oil that won't clog up wet clutches?

Rick - You love that dremel! I have to get one I swear. Till then its the manual way I think.

Polock - Thats what I'm thinking... lumps = bad. I'll give it a shot.

 

No, its got friction modifiers - see Castrol website

See also

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... art=0.html

 

I'll learn about the clutch from the others here.
As for the oil, I use Valvoline XLD 20w/50 in the XJ, GTR1000 and DR650.
A mate uses the same oil in his GS1100 and has done for over 200,000km....then he did a motor rebuild and still uses the same oil.

cds, if that clutch hasn't been slipping over the last year I doubt it will. Stick to the GTX.

 

GTX USED to be fine; I ran it for nearly 40 years in my Norton; but then it happened---

GTX became "car"oil like all the others. Now if you like Castrol (I do) you need to use 4T (motorcycle oil.)

If the spots on the basket are just shiny spots, it's fine. From the sound of things, you might want to just replace the hub. You can try polishing out the divots, but you may have too much metal missing already. The clutch guts in these bikes are generally common across a lot of models, I'd look for a low-mileage replacement hub.

 

Well I never!
Damn that 3 bottles of GTX that I bought at auto pro for cheap!
and
Castrol... what a bunch of bastards!
Thanks for the heads up adrian.

I have 2 other 750 motors here. I'm thinking I'll be stripping the clutches out to have a look before I get creative with the boss after all this good advice!

Thanks.

 

Put the Castrol 4T (on the other side of the shelf to the GTX... if only i'd learn to read proper like) into it and swapped the clutch for a smoother boss, basket and less rumbly roller bearing... so far so good!

Thanks for all the advice.