Deep Engine Work.

Ok, all the parts are here. Now I just need the motivation to tear apart the engine. Top end work is no problem, just remove the block, install the new camchain, adjusters and gaskets. Unfortunately, I need to put in a starter clutch as well, which necessitates splitting the cases. Has anyone done this job before? The manual shows how to rebuild an engine, but do you have to go whole hog to replace the starter clutch and remove the drive clutch and bearings and such? can the cases be split simply by turning the engine over and pulling all the bolts top and bottom, or will lots of parts fall out and be lost? The engine pull itself will be a bear considering all the turbo frippery to be removed. This is the last time I own an antique! (Yah right....)

 

An engine split isn't too bad. The assumption is you have all the proper tools (nothing special) and a large workbench. If you follow the directions in the manual it should steer you well. I had to split the case in my bike last year to replace the 2nd gear selector fork. Took about 8 hours start to finish.

Good luck!
Rob

 

I agree no drama , there is posts on the starter clutch , i just did mine the proper way.

Make sure you do undo the torx bolts in the final drive/mid drive unit [in engine] as the cases will break apart easier.
nothing falls apart really , a gearshift fork has to be juggled to go in its slot on reassembly , order a primary chain guide now or wait to see if the chain is ok or not , but since you will be that far into it i would suggest you order a primary chain and guide now....

Depending on how many k's/miles its done a bottom only set of conrod shells might be needed and a LH crankshaft seal too.

that is all i can think of at the mo thats really needed for bits to replace since you are in that far...

pm me if you need elp.

 

Ditto here Mac, it isn't that much of a pain. Just follow the bouncing ball in the book and even a noob can pull it off successfully (you should be a pro by now, given your abilities). Just remember to put all the bolts back in their respective holes (a larg cardboard cut-out and a marking pen) and you don't need to buy the bloody torx screws to replace the ones in the final drive, just get some regular counter sink heads from Home Depot, they'll work just fine. Just don't forget to spike them back in place like the originals.

 

Mac, is this your Turbo you're ripping into? I think we may be embarkling on the same journey!

I split my cases yesterday. It wasn't too bad, though re-assembly might be different.

I have a pretty well equiped shop but came across one thing I needed to get to do this. The main bolt holding the pressure plate on is a 30mm and there's no room to get a wrench in there. Do yourself a favor and make sure you have a 30 mm socket available.

Also, to get the bolt off the pressure plate, you need some mechanism for keeping the basket from rotating. I tried everything I could think of with no luck. I ended up using and air impact driver and that was about to break it free regardless of the spin.

If I can do this, I'm sure you can. We can share notes about our rebuilds.

Where are you getting gaskets? I can't find a head gasket anywhere. Looks like bikebandit has all the others.

One more thing. You probably already know this (I didn't.) After you take the top crank case bolts out and flip the motor over, you have to remove the oil pan to get to some of the lower bolts. The cylinder that the oil filter cover mounts to also needs to be removed to get to the final bolt. Doesn't seem to mention that in the manual anywhere.

Greg

 

I'm just going in far enough to swap out the starter clutch, so I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the main clutch, which I replaced the friction discs in last year. I have a complete gasket set from partsnmore for $96 US, which includes even the gaskets for the final drive if I am seeing them correctly. They even incude the valve stem seals. Too bad I already purchased the rubber valve cover gasket. I have new camchain guides and chain ready to go in. I'm not doing as thorough a rebuild as you since the bike really has no big issues, such as your gear troubles. I should put new rings in, but I'm sick of the parts waiting game, and it's not smoking, so I'm gonna pass on those. I'm not looking forward to the engine pull, as I have no shop to work in, just a small piece of pavement in the back yard (hence my jitters about the job). I really miss not working in a shop right now! Got to get it running right though. The whole teardown was prompted by some running troubles where the engine would bog and die at low revs, so even after it's put back together, I still have some work to do. I knew these other issues needed doing so I figured the time was as good as any. I'll have to wait for the humidex to fall a bit though, since it was equal 46C here today (about 115F!).

 

I've been looking at my engine(s) and I don't see how you can get to the starter clutch without cracking the cases. Essentially, I think you're going to have go just as deep as I have. Pulling the motor was, by far, the most difficult part for me. Cracking the cases really wasn't too bad. I didn't remove the heads so it's really just a matter of removing the starter, the four covers, the clutch (I could be wrong aboout this, but I think the clutch has to come out), the oil pan, the oil pump and the crank bolts (39 of them ugh). I know that sounds like a lot, but it's not as bad as it sounds.

I feel your pain when it comes to the heat. We're hitting similar numbers here. I'm just working out of my un-air conditioned garage, so it's pretty miserable.

I saw the gasket kits at Parts-N-More, but they're regular NA Seca kits aren't they? That looks fine for most of the gaskets. The part number for the head gasket looks different though. Which of the Parts-N-More kits did you buy? How long did it take to get it after you ordered it?

How far have you gotten so far? Have you removed anything yet?

Greg

 

I'm going to chime in on the removal of the clutch. The Haynes (that wonderful book) suggests running the gears up to 5th and blocking the output flange with a bar against the floor. I use the impact too, but there is a "flywheel" tool available that looks like a pair of ViseGrips made for the task. The oil filter cover removal is mentioned in my 81 through 84 normally aspirated manual so I'm curious as to why it would have been left out of your books. Don't let a bit of heat stop you Mac, you can do it with a cool pitcher of lemonade at hand. Just don't work in the sun, you will regret it!

 

Well, I started the teardown tonight. No major problems (yet). All the exhaust studs gave up their nuts without a fight, but boy is is a lot of parts to remove, adjust, or push out of the way to get this thing apart. I have the airbox, surge tank with carbs attached, battery box, head pipes and all the wiring off. Now it's just a matter of loosening the mounts and pulling the engine (and cursing when you realize there are wires and tubes you missed). Unfortunately, removing the air intake hose to the turbo revealed a large amount of oil inside, so either the check valve is leaking (not likely as I have checked it before) of the turbo seals are shot. I am thinking the latter due to about 1/32" of axial play in the shaft. Too bad. I'm not about to shell out a couple of hundred bucks for a new one. I'll just get this running and runs her until she gives out. I really wish I had a good 900 engine to throw in it, as the rest of the bike is clean.

 

Sounds like a fun job, well I hope it is because I will have to do the same thing soon enough . Good luck!

 

Sorry to hear about the turbo runout, that sucks (gravity, not the turbo, at least not at this point, and yes, I know the turbo doesn't suck). A couple of hundred dollars (less than $400) seems reasonable to me but I'm playing with the G-60 Corrado blower right now and they are just as bloody expensive! Good luck on finding that 900, not impossible but not that common either.

 

Look up the specs on the turbo as some are designed that way to run on the bed of oil , so when dry no oil seems loose but ain't....

 

Don't know anything about the Moto turbos But I've long experience with Garrett Turbos and ANY palpable play in the Shaft is not good news.. This being either in place or on the Bench.
Better news is that the Centre sections of Turbos can be easily/inexpensively rebuilt at most any Hiway truck shop of reasonable repute. G'luck

 

Well, I got the engine out and the head and block off. Took out all the bolts and I can't get the damn cases split. Any advice? I took out a small chunk of aluminum tapping on it, but I will go back fine with some epoxy putty. Frankly, I'm about to give up on this bike, considering the leaky turbo and the amount of piston slap in the engine. Working without a shop is tough!

 

Hey Mac - are you following the manual to split the engine? There are a couple of what I call "Hidey" bolts that aren't the most visible. Also you need to loosen the torx bolts where the shaft drive connects. It should come apart with very little force.

Good luck.
Rob

 

I would think that too about the hidey bolts , one in oil filter housing a couple in through the gearbox , all bolts removed = fairly easy to split!

 

Mac, as you know, I split my cases last week. They didn't come apart terribly easy, but weren't too bad. I used a dead blow on the edges under the clutch cover and the shift linkage cover. Does it feel like there's still something attached?

Greg

 

Is it necessary to remove the torx bolts on the bearing retainers for the middle drive gear? If so, that's bad, as someone at the factory has deformed one of the torx sockets to the point where my wrench won't fit in. Is there anything behind the clutch pack that has to come out? I can't see any bolts in the filter housing, and I did remove the pan and take out the four bolts inside there.

 

I don't ahve the torx bits required to remove those, so no you don't have to remove them, or at least I didn't. Have you removed the clutch? I really think it has to come out. It certainly will to get to the starter clutch.

 

The torx bit can be had for about $5 at almost any automotive supply shop. I have not been able to successfully disassemble my cases without removing them. The deformation is a spiked head, you will need to carefully drill out the spiked area. Don't get generous on the drill bit size and go slowly. It won't hurt anything if you nick the housing but don't go overboard, you still want a diviot there to re-spike your replacement.