Did I just kill my bike?

Bought my XJ650 three weeks ago. Between a few minor little fixes (missing speedo cable core), and lack of spare time, I've hardly ridden.

I noticed a minor little oil leak under the bike. Upon investigation, low and behold there was a second oil plug right where the leak was. I never noticed (or even knew) a second oil drain plug existed when I bought the bike. Put the socket on it, and like nothing, the plug comes off, and two pieces break off from around the plug. :roll:

It happened so easy, I'm thinking it had to be cracked when I bought the bike.

I'm not seeing any fix that isn't expensive and/or difficult.

So did I kill my bike or what??

 

No you didn't kill it. It isn't an easy fix but it also isn't a very hard one. The lower engine case is a seperate oil pan. So you can remove it and replace it with one that isn't broken. Finding the oil pan is the hard part. You will have to remove the exhaust collector from between the headers and mufflers. Then pull the oil level sensor and finally the oil pan bolts. Pull the oil pan free and make a new gasket for it. Swap in your good oil sensor then bolt everything back together.
You may also be able to JB Weld everything back in place but you won't be able to remove the bolt that way. Since it is prone to problems like the one you experinced, it wouldn't be much of a loss.

 

Hello,and welcome to the site,nmckay. I have a locked up spare '82 650 Maxim motor. If you pay shipping fees,you can have the oil pan. PM me if you are interested.Hope this helps,and once again,welcome aboard.

 

What Plug?

Exactly which one are we talking about?

How about a photo, please.

 

If this it infamous Middle Gear Drain Plug ... you have some work to do.

Get a set of "Reverse Twist" Drills ... you might get-off easy.

If it is the Middle Gear Drain and not an Oil Gallery End ... you have to take the Exhaust System Off ....

Presenting a whole Squadron of rusty nuts on butter-soft steel studs, just aching to make your life a living heck.**

Buy what you need to make this job go EASY.
Hate the Exhaust Collar Nuts and relish the idea of slitting their throats with a Dremel Tool armed with a High-speed Cutting Disc.

If they resist moving after being oiled and heated ~~> CUT them off!

Use the Dremel and cut-off wafer.
Slice through them on a "SLANT" across the length. That way, if you happen to nick the studs threads ... no harm is done to its integrity to hold a fastener.

Cut through them on a slant.
Then, chisel it open and let it fall on the floor.
One down.
Seven to go.

You could get lucky and oil and heat 'em and they'll come-off there like nothin'.
But, the instant you start applying muscle to get one of them Nuts to turn ... you aren't listening to me tell you not too.

You're listening to Rod Serling tell the audience about the guy who didn't heed the advice not to do this or decided to to it anyway.

You're traveling through another dimension -- a dimension not only of sight and sound but of mind. A journey into a wondrous land whose boundaries are that of imagination. That's a signpost up ahead: your next stop: the Twilight Zone!

(Sound effects)

Snapping of soft steel stud.

Break an Exhaust Stud and say hi to Mr. Serling for us!
Oh, I forgot ... you two are already having a conversation!

 

Pretty sure it's the Middle Gear drain plug. It's directly above the stands, and towards the rear of the case. Definitely not the front oil plug.
I'm also pretty sure it is not in any part of the oil pan. (I can feel the seam for the pan below the now gaping hole). No easy replacement for me. :cry:
It looks like there was a nipple projecting from the case to take the plug, and now half that nipple has cracked and fallen away.
I'll see what I can do for pictures, but it's a REALLY tight spot.

My biggest fear was to have to remove the whole $#@#!@ engine from the frame just to get at the thing. Wasn't sure if removing the exhaust would be enough, there seems to be a lot of frame in that area.

Either way, it still seems like a stretch for a newbie. The exhaust system is in rough shape (rusted front pipes and clamps and holes in the mufflers), so if I were to get it off, it would probably be in no shape to go back on.
Anyone here in Canada looking for a project bike?

 

Not that I can be thinking this way .. but, what part of Canada?

 

go here http://www.mcmaster.com/ do a search for this stuff

Tapered Pharmaceutical-Grade Silicone Rubber Plugs
Mini Low-Pressure Mechanical Test Plugs
Tapered Silicone Rubber Plugs

if you drill a hole in a rubber cork , put a bolt thru it and a nut on the other end, should be able to tighten it up and seal that puppy up for good
kind of mickey mouse but the right way is a lot of work

 

I am so sorry but you are right, the plug is not in the oil pan as I thought but it is in the lower case. I think I would try Polock's remedy if not too expensive. Other than that the case is thick aluminum and could be TIG welded. Again I am sorry for my earlier post and it's greivious error. I have always assumed that the plug was in the rear of the oil pan. I have never drained it and have never been a big proponent of draining it. So many have had it strip that I don't find the risk worth it.

 

Do any of you happen to have a picture of the 'evil' middle gear drain plug? I'd like to see it so that I can make sure I'm too careful when dealing with it.

 

Here's some pics. It's really tight to get under the bike, but it's located right above the center stand hinge on the LH side.

Turns out the drain already had a helicoil installed. Going to try the rubber plug and get back on the road.

 

We're giving you a Temporary "Double-Oh-XJ" License to Kill.

You are authorized to utilize any and all measures to seal that leak.

I think I'd have it TIG'ed shut -- for good and for all.

Have somebody with a good hand close that hole with a puddle of Aluminum Weld and you can forget about it for now and to the end of time.

 

Thanks Rick.
Do you think it could be welded in-situ (bike on it's side)? or are we removing the case from the frame?
I know a few good welders, so I'll run it by them, see if anyone is up to the task.

 

If you get it CLEAN and Grease and Oil free ... I think a guy who is a Certified Welding Wand Wizard could close it with the Bike laid-down on something.

Just be sure there's something flame retardant beneath the work and stay out of his way.

(Provided you get what ever might be in the way ... out of the way!)

Badda-Bing; Badda-Boom ... No leak!

 

If you weld it on the bike remember to remove the tank, drain carbs, crankcase and the rear axle gearcase. Oh, and remove the battery too!

 

Where in Canada are you ? You can PM if your close by!

 

I've fixed worse things with JB Weld,and no danger of explosion.Just a thought.

 

You will find that removing the exhaust gives some clearance as well. Best of luck on that effort. An oversized bolt might be the quick and easy fix. I'd find out what size and pitch the hole the helicoil left behind and pop an appropriatly sized bolt and copper washer back in there. Cheaper than welding it.

 

Back from the brink of death!!!

For anyone else unfortunate enough to have this happen, here was my fix:

Drain the rest of the oil. While you're at it, change the filter.

Turn the bike on it's side. I managed to do the fix without removing anything (exhaust, center stand, etc.)

Grind off the remains of the nipple the drain plug threaded into. Nice and smooth, and give it a good wash with acetone and a few Q-tips. Since we don't want to have any leaks, take your time.

Parts:
(1) #8-32 x 2-1/2" machine bolt (the longest I could find)
(1) #8-32 nut
(1) 3/4" OD rubber washer (~3/8" ID)
(2) 1/8" fender washers (3/4" OD)
(1) medicine syringe (the type for giving med's to children/infants) c/w ~3" tubing tip extension
JB weld

Take one of the fender washers and grind off two opposite sides flat untill the wahser will pass through the drain hole.

drill out the center hole to fit the #8-32 bolt. Turn the drill bit to elongate the hole into a slot. Now the washer will toggle on the bolt to be able to fit into the hole.
This may take some trial and error. between elongating the hole, and trimming the corners of the washer, work it until the bolt head and washer fit through the hole.

Fit the rubber washer and then the fender washer onto the bolt. get the nut started just enough to give you an end to hold and still turn the nut.

Mix up a batch of JB Weld. Load it into the syringe. I did the mixing on a piece of paper and then rolled the paper to load the syringe from the large end.

Inject weld into the hole, move the bolt around to ensure no voids or gaps. Make sure there's enogh there to fill the ID of the rubber washer.

Push the washers up to the hole, hold the end of the bolt and finger tighten the nut. Wiggle the bolt to ensure the inside washer is seated, and snug. Add a little more weld around the outside of the washers.

Stand the bike up right away. The liquid weld will settle into the hole.

24 hours later...

Fill up the oil and start 'er up!

I've had the bike out for a 20 minute spin yesterday, with no leak overnight. Took it out again this morning for an hour, even 15-20 minutes of highway speeds, and still no leak.

Two cycles from cold to hot to cold, and not a drop on the floor.

"Double-Oh-XJ" License to Kill mission accomplished!
I kind of feel like Bond at the beginnig of the last movie: sore and bleeding, but on top.
It wasn't artful or pretty, but it's done and done right.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

BTW, I'm in Edmonton, Alberta. tried changing my profile, but it won't take. <shrug>

 

Nice work!

 

Nice Save!

 

Nice to hear you got it fixed. Very ingenious repair too!