does turn signal depend on engine rpm?

When My bike is at idle the turn signals dont work, they come on but dont flash. I rev the engine up and they start flashing, the faster I rev, the faster they flash. Is this normal?

 

No.

But it is a SURE sign that you need to pop the cover off the Alternator and take a peek at the Carbon Alternator Brushes.

10mm or less -- Replace those brushes!

 

The signals on my 650LJ do that every once in awhile, even though my brushes are well within spec.....I need to check the bulbs and make sure they are the lower wattage versions, so there isn't such a strain on the charging system....You might want to look into that, might help your problem.

-Nick

 

Installing a variable load flasher will help as well. Ones labeled heavy duty trailer typically work and can be picked up at any auto parts store. Stock yamaha flashers get quite squirrely when they don't see exact stock turn signal loads.

 

Stock turns need to see 23watt bulbs I believe, and most new bulbs you buy, don't even have the wattage listed, I used a generic flasher to replace mine, $3.99 CDN

 

Where do I find a flasher that will flash a little faster than the stock blinker?

 

Funny, my Maxim does the same silly thing Energi2er. I have the heavy duty flasher installed with the correct bulbs. I'm not sure what condition my brushes are on that bike (haven't ridden it in 3 years) but I'll have a peek when I put the motor back into the frame. I surmised that the problem was a lack of voltage being supplied to the electrical system but I was reading over 13 volts at the battery so I ignored the problem. Thanks for the heads up Rick.

 

Go to an auto parts store and get an "electronic" flasher. I replaced my stock "mechanical" flasher with an electronic one (my new turn signals flashed way too fast when I installed them)
Also, your battery my be a bit weak and the alternator (stator) may not be doing the job it is supposed to. They don't usually charge when your bike is at idle, so your battery has to do the job, until you rev it up so it can start charging the battery. If your battery is charged up enough, it should activate the blinker unit enough. >PD<

 

In addition to checking the brushes, make sure your voltage regulator connectors/ground are clean and free of corrosion, and also make sure your fuse box has been replaced or is at least in good shape and free of corrosion.

ZaGhost: Standard 1156 bulbs are rated 27 watts. The stock flasher is looking for 59 watts (27Wx2+5W indicator) and it is VERY picky (it refuses to flash if even the 5W indicator is out). If the voltage drops due to a faulty voltage regulator or corroded connector, then the bulbs will not be drawing their rated wattage, thus the flasher will not flash. That is the case with almost all 'thermal type' flashers (not including the heavy duty ones mentioned above - those are designed for a wide range of wattage, so that you don't have to change flashers to make trailer lights work)

:: For example.. The bulbs are rated 27 watts @ 13.8 volts. If there is a corroded connector and the electrical system is only generating 12.5 volts, then each bulb is only pulling about 22 watts. (Since the resistance [R] of the bulb remains constant at just over 7 ohms, the wattage [P] draw for any given voltage [E] can be calculated by Ohm's Law, using P=E²/R. 12.5*12.5/7=22.32143 watts... I used the factory bulb specs to determine its resistance using Ohm's law again.. R=E²/P. 13.8*13.8/27=7.053 ohms) ::

Rick/Robert/ignition: An electronic or solid-state flasher will be set to give a specific flash rate (generally 60-90fpm) regardless of the load. The only problem is that if you change from the stock flasher, you will lose the auto-cancel feature. Thusfar, no one has come up with a way to make it auto-cancel with an aftermarket flasher. I had to change my flasher when I changed over to LED's, and I miss the auto-cancel so bad. I've been known to go for miles with the turn signal on during the day if I can't see the indicator in the sun. But its a trade I had to make because the power freed up by changing to LED is more important.

 

Mine did the same thing, but cleaning up the connections in my wiring harness and the inside of the turn signal switch increased the voltage getting to the flasher enough that they work normally now.

 

I hated all those plastic connectors (usually the source of electrical problems) so I cut most of them out and soldered the wires together then used heat shrink to cover all of them. My honda had a few that went bad too, so I started to cut them out too. Good luck!

 

soo. Where is my alternator located, and how do I pop the cover to get to the brushes. I followed wires but couldnt find anything that looks like an alternator. anyone have any pics?

 

You'll find your alternator under the cover labeled 6 in this diagram:

 

The brushes are mounted to the INSIDE of that Cover #-6 in the above Plate.

10mm or shorter = REPLACE!

 

Taz : Thanks for the info, now I'm wondering where the PO got the 1156's that are stamped 23watt???? I replaced them with generic ones. May try the original flasher once I get my regulator replace, fixed several electrical anomalies since then.

 

Found one of the old bulbs... it was a 1073 they used instead of an 1156....
so 23 watt vs a 27 ...no wonder the signals didn't work right......

 

Checked all the bulbs on the bike yesterday...2 of them are 1156's made by Stanley, 23watt...not 27... odd, gonna replace them....