Dumb ? - connection location on carbs for throttle and enricher cables

I had help taking the carbs out of my bike last December, disconnected one cable, but didn't realize their was a second cable. I put the carbs back in and proceeded to make the connections. According to the tech manual (Haynes) the throttle cable goes on the bracket between carbs 2 & 3, and the choke goes on the outside of carb 4. I thought I took off the throttle cable from the outside connection, but figure I could be wrong, especially since it has been a few months. The bike now idles high when started. Before I start working through the idle, I would like to ensure I have the cables connected correctly. Can anyone with a 750 Maxim tell me where the throttle cable connects to the carbs?

Thanks.

 

The throttle cable attaches to the pivoting bracket on the throttle shaft between carbs #2 and 3, but first it goes thru a retainer bracket that is on carb hat #2 (inside). The choke cable goes thru the bracket with a screw-retained clamp on it which is on the inner side of carb hat #3, and then into the long bracket which is attached to the rotating choke shaft. When you operate the choke thumb lever on the control switch, it should operate the choke shaft (and lift the brass plungers upwards).

 

Thanks, Chacal. That is exactly what is happening. Now I get to begin working through the process of determining the idle speed adjustment. At least I know I am starting in the right place.

 

Make sure that the throttle cable pivoting bracket arm (on the throttle shaft) isn't hanging up on any of the cylinder fins, it's a tight fit in there.....

 

I'll take another look. It looks like I need to adjust the idle screw. The bracket on top of carb #3 is tight, and there doesn't seem to be any issues with cables, but being as this is the first time (maybe the last - the boots were a pain to get back onto the carbs), I'll check again.

Thanks

 

Oh come on, where is your sense of adventure?
Trust me, the more times you do it the better you get at it!

 

Here's a tip, when you start it up for the first time after reinstall of the carbs, turn steering to full lock both sides. I found out my throttle cable was hanging up when i turned my handlebars, scared me when i went to leave my garage and suddenly my engine started revving seemingly on its own! Haha

 

My sense of adventure left when I was laying on the ground for four hours trying to figure out why I couldn't get the bottom of the air side boots around the carbs. However, I will likely do it again when the time comes. Even though I have plans on getting a bike with EFI one day, I will be holding on to the Maxim. It's my first bike (waited many years to start riding) and really like it.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

Next time it will be 3 hours. . . . It helps if the boots are warm.

Not sure what a 750 configuration is like but on my 650, the airbox, when loosened, allows enough movement for easy boot installation.

I love my Maxim also, she will never leave, even if I hit the lotto and buy a BMW R 1200 GS.

 

I think I had about 1/2" of "extra" room when I moved the air box back. It didn't make it easy, but it helped. I will probably use a hair dryer next time. This time I just waited for warm days. I'm working on getting the idle set right now, but all is looking good and NY riding weather may come early this year.

 

Make one of these...

Here's what you do: With the carbs fully seated in the intake boots (all clamps loose) wedge a dowel under carbs 2 and 3 to lift and angle the rack for easier air boots install.

Gary H.

 

Thanks Gary. I'll remember that for the next time.

Bike is running a lot nicer with cleaned carbs. I have to make some adjustments on the enricher cable, and there is snow predicted later this week, but riding time is coming soon to the Northeast.

 

Bike now runs, but idle is too high. I am working on a graduate degree, working full time, and finishing up a final year with the Army National Guard, so I had the carbs sent out to be cleaned. I'll probably do them myself next time, but there just isn't enough time in the day. I noticed another thread about runaway idle and the suggestion to check for vacuum leaks. I added clamps to a couple caps on the manifold that were missing them, which seemed to help. I'm also thinking about going back to step one (after cleaning the carbs), bench syncing, etc., but also want to ensure I haven't introduced a vacuum leak somewhere else. The other thread recommended using a propane torch to check for leaks. Is there anything I should be cautious of doing with it (other than not lighting it, of course)? Thanks.

 

Either propane or carb cleaner. BE methodical and take your time. There will be a delay between when you aim at a particular place, and when the fuel starts being pulled in through any potential leak.

 

Thanks, K-moe. We have freezing rain now, but perhaps it will be better by the time I finish the work day and can start going over the bike.

 

Just an update. I found the high idle while syncing the carbs (a friend lent me his nanometer). It turned out the throttle cable wasn't releasing all the way, although only by a fraction of an inch. It was enough to cause the high idle. I adjusted the cable, and now it runs better than ever. I'm still working on the perfect idle for bike, but now it is a matter of a quarter or less of a turn of the idle adjustment, maybe even a sixteenth of a turn. I even was able to ride it to work for the first time this riding season. The power is much higher, which is nice, but not essential. It had plenty of power before. What is really significant is that I can now start the bike on half enricher setting, wait five minutes or less, and go ride. That is a huge improvement in my opinion.

 

tight throttle cable quite often that is the problem that occurs after cleaning the carbs. po set idle screw to keep bike running tightened throtle cable to remove slack.
carbs cleaned and set properly throttle cable ends up to tight.

 

Thanks, XJ550H. I was surprised that the cable was the issue, but what a difference it made. Once adjusted correctly, the bike ran amazingly well. It's a lot of fun to ride. I also had to change the pilot screws, which were four and a half turns. They are now about two or two and half turns. The bike idles pretty good, although I am still looking for that magical perfect idle. It goes just under 1000 RPMs at the moment and I would ideally like it at 1025 RPMs. Either way, it runs fantastic. Now I can improve on the long term ability of the bike. That doesn't mean squeaking out the last few bits of power. It means enjoying the bike for what it is. I have dreams of a 1100 or 1300 with EFI and heat (gotta have it up here in the North East). But that will wait.

 

the idle is hard to set . you want to go for a long ride at least 15 miles or so then adjust the idle. for my 550 it states 1050 in book but 1200 in side cover.

I have seen an ad for an xs 1100 1979 I may go give that a look, also thinking about an 83 650 turbo I think that may be above my mechanical skill set.

I am 60 miles from Canada in NH

 

I'll definitely do that, XJ550H. I am happy that I have it close, but definitely want to work on it.