Electric start problem, xj550

Got a problem with my electric start on my xj550. Got a new battery. charged it up, checked the brushes on the starter and tried to crank the bike. It will roll over the engine but after a few seconds it will slow down. I got new sparkplugs and they are firing. It seems like an electric problem. What is the average voltage drop for a starter before/while the bike is cranking? What is the treshold for a new starter/battery? This bike will bump start in an instant so I know it runs well. I'm about to break down and figure out how to put a kickstart the the starters place. Any ideas because this is killing me.

 

Will it start when jumped from another battery? Are your connections (both + and -) good and clean? If you can rule out the battery, cables, connections, and solenoid, that leaves only one thing: the starter.

 

I can't totally rule out a short. I consistantly blow 20amp fuses on the ignition and headlight circiut. I take the fuse out of the headlight and same thing. Problem lies somewhere in the ignition fircuit. How would the solenoid effect start? I shorted it and it clicked like in one of the how-tos. Connections and been sanded and cleaned from the battery to the cables. Should I check the ground connection? It looks pretty solid. I'm ready to start getting this beast running, the only thing that is out is the electric start system . Is there a way to test if the starter is bad? Looked at the brushes and they were fine, oiled up the gears. What about the starter cable? Should I make sure its getting enough juice? I can see how many watts are going into it tomorrow. What do you guys think of after-market starters?

 

Blowing fuses is not good. That means you've got an electrical short somewhere. Another thing that concerns me—and you'll have to correct me if I'm reading you wrong—is the rating on the fuses you say you're blowing. From everything I've read, the Main fuse should be a 20. The Ignition, Signal, and Headlight fuses should all be 10's. If your blowing 20's when they really should be 10's, you've definitely got a serious problem. You'll need to find that short before something catches fire.

Do you have a wiring diagram for your bike? Does it look like this one? If so, then you'll note that the Ignition circuit and Headlight circuit are on separate fuses. In other words, a problem on one will not cause a blown fuse on the other—unless you have a shorted wire between them. It may be time to remove the seat, tank, and side covers and pull the headlight for a thorough inspection of the harness for cracked or chaffed wires and bad connections.

Of course, this still doesn't rule out problems with your starter. I'm just wondering if your problem is manifesting itself as a slow cranking starter when in reality it's an electrical short somewhere else drawing all the power away. Let's cure the problem; not the symptom.

One last question: does the starter crank "normal" after the fuse(s) blow (but before you replace them)? If it does, that would indicate a big-time short in your harness.

 

That problem has often been traced to the Main Ground Strap not being a good Ground.

The eyelet on the Ground Dtrap gets corroded and the attachment point gets oxidized.

I think there's more too it than that; though ... because the fuse blowing is a Major concern.

 

Ok the problems with the other circuit have been fixed. The only thing now is that when the bike starts, the headlight shines and then blows a 20amp fuse on the circuit. The headlight relay is good. So the only things on the circuit where the short is is the headlight,backlight,fuse and some switches. Where do I start inspecting wire? Is there a wire harness I can buy to replace the wiring?

 

Don't replace the wiring until you read the wattage of the Bulb. PO's are famous for upping the Bulb wattage trying to get a little more brightness out of a Headlight.

I've seem many examples of a higher wattage bulb replacing the stock one.
Some people get away with it if they have new batteries and good alternator brushes.

You won't if the battery isn't being Charged with the full 14.2 Volts and the light is pulling more current than the system is designed for.

 

Found the short in a PO's shady wiring. Shorting out the tach backlight whenever the alternator kicked in. Now I have different symptoms.

Got a new battery.
Cleaned alternator/checked brushes.
Cleaned starter/checked brushes.
Got a working rectifier/regulator.

Everything SHOULD work fine now. For some reason the bike won't start. The engine turns over, the sparkplugs all fire correctly, the carbs have been rebuilt, etc.

If I leave the bike for a while, come back and try to start it, it will start instantly, rev up a little (strongly like it is about to run great) and then just die not to be started again for a while. Shots of ether don't really help. The headlight and instrument lights latch on and are fine after it dies so It really doesnt seem electrical. What do you guys think?

 

Ignition Fuse?
Safety Circuit Related?

You have a new Fuse Panel in that Bike, yet? The OEM's are way, way beyond they're life expectancy. You can have a good Fuse, but the little Clamps that are the Fuse Holders fail.

Undo the Safety Circuit Relay.
Put the Bike in Neutral and give it a try.
If it Starts ... you have a Side Stand or Clutch Switch to troubleshoot.

 

Ugh oh. Now it won't even fire. Each time I press the start button I get a click. Shorted out the solenoid and it didn't crank. Battery is fine.

 

Sounds like a starter to me. Can you push start it?

 

Rap onn the end of the Starter with a wood handle so you don't mar it up.

Give it a try after tapping pretty soundly on the housing.

If you get a response out of the Starter ... Pull it and see if its Carbon Dust or Brushes.

Either way, you're going to have to Clean it or re-brush!

(Is anyone other than me noticing the Spike in Starter Problems. I think it's almost time for everybody that has NEVER Cleaned or re-brushed the Starter to get ready for a little "Starter Overhaul Festival")

 

I'll second that Rick. Just pulled the brushes off of this 82 Seca and they are at limit. Think there will be a run on starter brushes this season? Chacal, you planning on stocking up?

 

I just cleaned and re-greased it a few weeks before this. It only clicks once as opposed to clicking rapidly. What does this mean? Looks like its time for another rebuild kit. Ill try and bump start it later.

 

Did you whack the starter housing as Rick suggested?

 

Pull the starter.
Hook-up the Red wire from a Battery Charger to the Electric Lead and the Black one to the long screw.

Spins ... OK
Don't ... Brushes and a Cleaning!

 

Smacked the hell out of it and no change. The problem is totally isolated within the starter correct? What is the process for checking the coils/etc in the starter? I have already cleaned and greased it. Only thing I can think of is that since the gaskets broke off when repairing water got into the starter.

BTW when I put the starter back together the 2 bolts on it didn't line up correctly, they were twisted looking. Bench tested it with 12v and it spun fine. When put together so it lined up, the starter spun strange. When you install it on the bike is the electric connection supposed to be ontop of the starter or under it?

 

At about 5 O'Clock.

You make me think you didn't get the starter back together the way it came apart.

There are detents and slots that everything nests into. Maybe you should pull the starter and re-check the way everything fits.

 

I will give it another look tomorrow. What needs to be checked? Brush length is ok. resistance between plates/coils? What would indicate a problem?

 

Not turning when energized....big indicator! I'll stop being a wise a** now and re-enforce what Rick said. It sounds like you did not get the starter stacked back together correctly. Pull it apart again (I know, I hate doing it too), and get it put together right.