Extracting Fender Bolts in Forks

Reading Jonnymaritimes post about removing exhaust studs with heat and maybe wax, my next task is to remove two sheared fender bolts. The PO broke both the front fender bolt in each fork leg. I'm concerned that applying too much heat in this area might damage the internal fork components. Do you think that there is anything close to the fender bolts that might be affected if I apply too much heat to this area?

I'm planning on draining the fork oil and leaving the top of the fork open while I heat the bolt.

 

If it were me, i'd probably (i know you hate to hear this) take the fork apart and do it. The seals inside might not like the heat too well and you'll probably end up having to repaint the fork anyway. Your other option is to mount the fork tube in a drill press and CAREFULLY drill out most of the bolt. The diameter of the hole would almost touch the threads.... Which is a much larger hole than you'd normally use with a screw extractor. The purpose of this is to relieve some tension on the threads and let it collapse a bit during the removal process. We're talking .0001 here.. For what it's worth, I've always had much more success with the square type extractors. Seems that they tend to not wedge into the bolt like the "corkscrew" style does. Soaking the drilled out bolts in penetrating oil for a few days wouldn't hurt, either.... good luck!

 

The thing to do is to remove that Fork off the Bike to be able to exercise the highest degree of control over the situation.

Drilled-out ... the fragment is likely to be easily removed with an Easy-Out.
Use the largest Easy-out not a small one.

If its seized.
Drilled and re-tapped.
Drilled or Heli-Coiled

If you have to HEAT the Tube:
Wrap the Tube above and below where you'll heat it with terrycloth
Saturate the cloth with cold water
Have an assistant add water to the cloths if necessary
The Aluminum will melt before the steel turns red.

 

I thought I was screwed (oops) when I had the same deal with the little screw that hold the trim plate over the brake line junctions. Tried the extractor and it broke. Its harder than any steel I know and can't drill it to fix it, so live with it.

 

That fork needs to come off and I would center punch the broken bolt and put the fork in a vise with a towel wraped around it. Carefully drill through the bolt and lube it up real good and leave it sit for a day or more. Then Like Rick said use a large e-z out on it. If it doesnt budge with alittle pressure. Remove the e-z out and drill to proper size and use a tap to clean out the threads. Worst case drill and install a heli coil. Do Not Break off a e-out or drill bit in there or you'll be looking for a fork. Take your time and Good Luck

 

boy that sure looks like red loctite on those threads, a little heat and it should come right out

 

Thanks you guys. I think the red may be from the fender, it's the same color. I always wanted to know how the forks come apart, now I guess I'm going to find out.

 

Get a spring loaded centerpunch and put an indentation as far to one side of the broken bolt as you can. Then turn the centerpunch at about a 45 degree angle and use the force from the centerpunch to pop the bolt loose. All it will take is a turn or two and then it can be unscrewed with vice grips. I have used that method several times on similar items with success. If that doesnt work then try the old easyout method. Or better yet find someone who can weld.

 

If you happen to break off an extractor, take it to a good automotive machine shop. Most of them that I know are amazingly adept at this kind of thing. It won't be cheap, but will probably be cheaper than a new fork.

 

Apply some KROIL a day or so ahead of time. It may fall out.

 

Nuts BigFitz! You beat me to it! After what I read last week about Kroil I was thinking it would probably just fall out on it's own, no tools needed after a couple judicious applications!

BTW I'm still waiting for my 2 cans to arrive in the mail!

 

Do like Fitz said. Apply some Kroil for a day and then, if you can, use a left hand bit to back it out. Guaranteed!!

 

I have taken-out Bolt-ends that large, before ... by "Making" (Fabricating ala 'Dentistry') a SLOT in the remnant with a Dremel Tool ... Large enough to accommodate a Medium-sized Screwdriver ... and, then ... Using my Hand-held Impact Tool to back-out the fragment.

You might need to "Shave" the left and right of the Impact Tool Bit a few thousandths ... But, there's plenty of Tool Bit to get seated in the frabricated slot and just a few whacks with a Hammer and your done with it.