Faction.Arms 750Max work and updates!

Hello again, (I hope I'm doing this right.)

So my 750Max has a few issues, and here's where I will begin discussion of said issues.

CURRENT CONDITION:
I can pull full enrichment, start it, and no matter what I do, if I shut enrichment off, then touch the throttle, it kills it. It sounds alright running on enrichment, but it almost sounds like a car running short a few cylinders with enrichment off.

THE BAD:

-Doesn't really run;
The PO claims he only really rode it a couple time per year, and "once you get out on the highway, it's fine." I cannot even get it out my driveway. He pulled into the parking lot with the fuel set to PRI, and for all I know, he was driving it on enrichment. It's the only way I can keep the bike running.

-The starter;
I'm hoping this is just the battery being old and slightly dead, but sometimes when I push the starter button, it doesn't do anything. If I hold it down, a few seconds later it might turn over a few times. If I let off and hit the button again, sometimes it reacts when I push it, sometimes after I push it by a few seconds, and sometimes not at all.

-The bike has been hit;
Using my Batman detective skills, I would wager that the bike was backed into, or just plain hit, while on it's side-stand.
The ears on the side stand the bolt goes through were bent open, allowing the bike to sit far more leaned over than it should. The little plunger for the kickstand shut-off is bent also.
The right side of the tank has some dents, and almost looks rippled down the top right side. The paint is spider-webbed on the bottom front of the right side. The left side emblem has been dented into the tank.
The clutch lever is bent over, but not rashed (if the bike had fallen while moving.)
The left side exhaust mount is bent a bit, etc. No road rash really anywhere.

-The Atari has some issues;
First of all, the speedometer needle is broken off, and doesn't move anyways. I haven't checked the cable yet, the the PO said the PPO "had the whole thing apart and couldn't figure it out." I'm going to give myself enough credit to say that I already have very little faith in anything the PO or PPO did to the bike.
The "Check" button only pops out half as far as the "Warning" button. (Is this normal?) It also doesn't seem to cause the screen to cycle through its checks.
The area around the check button (on the black plastic) definitely melted a bit at some point. Cause currently unknown.
The Atari cover has no semblance of a watertight seal. When it rains, the inside of the screen looks like a bathroom mirror after a shower with no vent fan.

-Electrical;
So the blinkers don't blink, they just stay constant on. Sliding the turn signal switch back to center doesn't always shut them off. Sometimes you have to push further than center, almost to the other side, to shut it off. Then can begin the fun game of switching between the right and left lights on, trying to find the off in the center. I hear the auto canceler can cause issues, any more info on this?
The Aux light doesn't work, obviously I'll check the bulb.

-The exhaust;
It's actually in descent shape. No outter rust, very small hole rusted through the bottom of each, (dime sized) and no major dents.
However, it looks almost like somebody tried to cut the exit hole open more? There is no glass in the pipes, if there ever was...
Basically I cannot figure out what the pipes were supposed to be like originally (internally) and if I can somehow contort to pack fresh glass into these? It's quite a bit louder than my old 650.
Could this be affecting my rich running machine? I know that exhaust changes require re jetting.

-The rear axle was missing it's pinch bolt;
Yup. I replaced it already. Don't know why it was gone.

-The left side engine cover;
The "YICS" plate on the left side has a smallish broken hole in it. It was filled by some type of hard rubber(?)
Is this something that needs replaced immediately? For the prices of a replacement on ebay, it will most likely get replaced soon anyways. (I don't like having a hole in my engine metal, anywhere.)

-The rear "sissy bar"(?);
The aluminum bar that runs under the seat and forms the rear sissy bar, is cracked in two (common) spots directally above where the upper rear shock mounts are. They appear to have already been welded, and are cracked through the welds. Are these in any way structural to the rear passenger or to the upper shock mounts?

THE PLAN:

-Carbs;
I'm doing the church of clean as soon as my workbench has space. I've re read the guides and every piece of advice I can so far, so I think I'll be off to a descent start when I pull them. I am quite very mechanically inclined, and collect tools, so I'm not worried there.
The boots all look pretty good, no visible cracks or holes I can see yet.

-Petcock;
Gonna pull and check it, etc.

-Rear brakes;
I guess these need checked as they can have some serious delaminating issues. Must do.

-Whatever else comes next;
I'm sure this will be an ongoing project, which is why I'm here. =)

I'm sure I will post pictures of trouble areas I have, and if people need pictures of specific parts of the motorcycle for anything, or for reference, please let me know and I'm more than happy to oblige!

Thanks again for any advice and assistance!
-Faction.Arms

 

Definately dont underestimate the carbs. Ive been rebuilding carbs since I was a small child and these took several attempts before I got them surgically clean. If you dont do everything PERFECT, it wont run right. Check valve clearances first BTW, set the float levels then sync the carbs using a manometer and YICS tool. Finally do the colortune.

You probably should change the fork oil and brake fluid even if you dont decide to tear into those two systems. I think the turn signals light constantly when one of them is out, you might try cleaning out as many electrical connectors on the bike as possible, its a source of many strange gremlins. A small flatbladed screwdriver, file or piece of sandpaper can be used to scrap the contacts inside the connectors clean, plus some electronic parts cleaner and dielectric grease doesnt hurt(I also used DeOxIt to promote better connections on mine).

Anyways, goodluck with it and welcome to the forums, a very handy place indeed!

 

-Valve clearances first; then carbs and rebuild the brakes. Get a new gasket for the ignition cover (the one you're replacing) you have to pull it off to do the valve clearances anyway.

Once you get the valve clearances in spec, do a compression test so you know what you're working with. Quit running the motor until you've checked the valves.

If the turn signal symptoms are with the motor off or at idle then your problem is most likely a weak battery. Below 2200rpm, everything is on the battery. If the battery is tested-good and fully charged, then you're not drawing enough current to make them flash. Wrong bulbs or wiring/connections/corrosion in the signals/sockets usually cause this.

The turn signal switch cancels when pressed in at the center position. The auto-canceller doesn't work if the bike isn't moving.

The original starter solenoid is electro-mechanical with contact points inside it. The next time it doesn't want to respond to the starter button, short across the two big terminals on the solenoid. (**spark alert**) If it spins fine, the problem is either the solenoid, or the wiring/connection to the button itself.

-fusebox: The original fusebox has glass fuses and the fuse clips crystallize and break all on their own, causing all sorts of goofy electrical problems. Rebuild or retrofit with a blade-style fuse block.

-brake lines: The original brake lines were supposed to have lasted four years; caliper and master cylinder seals two years. Check the date codes on the front brake lines; month/year. If original they need to be replaced. Take the opportunity to upgrade to stainless steel.

 

Alright, I will now be doing quite a bit more research for a little while. (Also ordering a Haynes manual.)

I'll make valves "priority: tomorrow."
Any thread that is the holy verse for valves I should be aware of?
[EDIT:] Found valve thread

I'll check the battery, then all the connections. The few connectors i popped open today seemed quite clean. I think this bike has been stored indoors for a while at least.

My turn signal switch doesn't go back to center on it's own, is it supposed to?
Is there any company that makes a good fuse conversion box, or is it a DIY affair?

And brakes are deffinitly on the to-do list. Again, reccomendations on good brands to use or stay away from when it comes to aftermarket parts? I'd like to keep as stock as possible for now, but I'm all for upgrading brakes.

 

I pulled the carb rack today, it came out a lot smoother than I was expecting. I think my boots are all in pretty great shape still. Flexible and no visible cracks.

Draining the gas, easy enough. But I still cannot drain the last through the petcock. Must remove petcock first? I had the tank in my arms every way except fully upside down and shaking, still sounds like a cup sloshing around in there.


First I removed the throttle and enrichment cables. Then I loosened all the boot clamps, then pushed the rear boots into the airbox. Using an inside corner of a standard number 2 or 3 Phillips screwdriver to push on the shoulder of the rubber flange keeping the boot outside the airbox works great, so long as the boots are pliable. I don't feel I damaged them at all.
After all four are in, and off, the carb rack slid rearward very easily, then out to the left.


After a bit of wiggling, I removed this.


As for how to protect the now open access to the cylinder, I figure this ought to work well enough for a few days.
I took an old clean rag, cut it into quarters, sprayed it down well with WD-40, shoved it into the open end of the boot, then zip-tied a plastic baggy over the opening. The airbox has a thick shopping bag duct taped over it.


This should keep it rain and condensation proof, at least resistant, for a few good days going into our rapidly descending fall season.


Hopefully carb and valve pics next, who knows!

 

definitely a good start. I'd recommend breaking the carb rack down completely and doing your throttle shaft seals and fuel rail O-rings while you are at it....

 

Will do on the complete break down, thanks!

I was hoping to do this cleaning first, then worry about tuning and everything else, but this valve thing looks rather important.

I'm just hoping that everything is in spec so I can leave the re-shimming for a later time.

I'll have to replace the valve cover and bolt gaskets when I check the shim spacing?
I'm all for replacing everything I can along the way that needs done, (no point in doing it wrong) however, I would like to be able to just check the shims for today, without having to order another $60-$80 worth of rubber and waiting a few days. I was hoping that kind of cost could wait a few more weeks...
is this a bad idea?

 

you can't do any tuning w/o the valves in spec. Also, you risk engine damage with out of spec valves.

chances are those doughnuts and valve cover gasket are 30 years old.... you open it up, and they will need replaced.

Properly re-commissioning a bike ain't cheap.... I'd expect at least dropping a grand in it. More if you are doing cosmetics too....

 

I'm actually not talking of tuning, I'm talking of cleaning. Weather my valves are in spec or not, it has nothing to do with the inside cleanliness of my carbs. I could make my carbs squeaky clean without an engine to attach them too, if I felt like it, and I wont have to "re-clean" anything after I make valve shim adjustments.

I wasn't planning to sync/tune until it's all together proper.
I was basically planning that I could easily pull my cover today, check my clearance to see how far off they are, and just put it back together with all original hardware, until I can get shims and new seals.

I am worried about getting moisture in there if I do that and leave it for a few days before a replacement gasket gets here?

I know I shouldn't be riding it, and as of now, it's going nowhere until it's finished.

As for dropping a grand into it, eventually yes. For now, It's gonna get rideable and safe. I'm not expecting to spend $1000 on seals and such, and nothing major needs replaced yet.

 

To get it rideable and safe is where the $1000 comes in. Not all at once, mind you; but you'll soon feel it's "nickel and diming" you and that's when you have to remember the "gonna spend $1000" aspect.

You DO have to "tune" because once the carbs have been cleaned and their float levels set, they will need to be adjusted (synchronized) TO THE MOTOR, for which the valves need to be in spec first.

That rack o'carbs needs more than cleaning however. Just based on your pic, (2nd one from top) you're going to need to break the rack and replace the throttle shaft seals; it's apparent the outside seal on #4 carb has been "weeping" gas for a while.

You can certainly re-install the valve cover to keep moisture out; the point being made was that unless the cover gasket and hold-down bolt pressure washers are replaced, it will leak once the motor is run.

And we haven't even begun to discuss the brakes yet.

Valve clearance how-to: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html
Part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

The "valve thing" IS VERY important.

 

Just out of curiosity, have you done a compression test on the motor? Just to verify that everything is cool.... before you start work on it....

 

Okay, I think my ideas of getting a bike needing a good old carb job, doing that, and riding it around town this fall, then doing all the major work this winter, is not gonna happen. Lolz, oh well.
Either done right or not at all.

I was curious about that piece that seems like it was leaking something on the end of the carbs. Throttle shaft seals, one more nickle and dime thing.
I won't mind spending a lot of money on the bike (once I have more money) as this is literally the exact bike I've been searching for. I found other bikes that may have been in better shape or bikes cheaper... but I wanted this exact 750Maxim. Whatever my new baby needs, she will get.
(After my old 650Max, I wanted another. When I realized that the 750 has the bigger tank, obviously more power, and most importantly, those magical handlebars, I knew this was my next one. I know this may sound stupid, but the beautiful 750 handlebars are what sold me. Go figure.)

I'm really not trying to do things wrong, cut corners, or be argumentative. I've just been trying to figure out what I can do now that doesn't require much money, knowing that it's not getting ridden until it's safe and ready to do so. My new job literally starts tomorrow, so the parts buying will begin in a couple weeks. =D

I have yet to do a compression test. I do have an old school compression tester, it's the kind with a solid metal body and handle, and it's not threaded. You just push it down into the spark plug hole and hold on.
Then I would do what? Turn it over? I've never used it, it was just an old Goodwill find. I'll try to post a pic of it to make sure it'll work on my bike.

Is it pointless to compression test before checking valves?
I'm getting the feeling that valves are number one, everything else comes after?

Really, thank you all for your input, and more importantly, your patience with me.

 

I would check the valves 1st, it does make a difference.

 

This, sir, is why you'll succeed when so many others fail.

 

Well, I've been busy with my new job lately, but I'm so very close to having part money (valve tools and any required shims next.)

I've had a little bit of time to crack open carbs... I'm both happy with the condition (very clean already, not zestfully, but it will be shortly) and getting a little bit worried. It looks almost like the PO or PPO already had the carbs done recently. I understand that the tiniest of jets are probably still in need, but these look decent. They chunk nice and loud, before any cleaning at all.

I was figuring with how crap the bike was running, the carbs would be bad inside.
So I'm going to zest everything up and get it all back together, but could out of spec valves be causing my running issues?
These look too clean for how bad it's running.

I have a couple pics I can post up when I get home.

I'm really not expecting anything other than replies of
"don't bother asking til the carbs are zesty and reinstalled."
Just figured I'd post some small update in the hopes of gaining sage wisdom while I'm here at work on my phone before I get home to my bike.

 

The enrichment circuit jets are really small and can be clogged even if they look clean.

Did you check the mixture screws condition?

 

yea.. it looks like you got a few carb related things going on. leaky throttle shaft seals (as fitz mentioned), gonna want to change the fuel rail o rings while you have the rack broken down.... but the biggest thing to running at peak performance is the valves.

The valves are crucial to how the motor operates effectively. I don't know how much you know about engines, but this is a really simple easy to understand article that has some very deep information:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm
Your intake valves let your engine suck in the air/fuel mix from the carbs, and your exhaust valves let the exhaust gasses out. your valves also help cool the engine by disbursing heat when they are closed. If your valve clearances from the cams are out of spec, then your valves are either opening too early (tight), or too late (loose). Basically, what it comes down to, is that you can have the cleanest carbs in the world, but it won't matter if the valves aren't in spec. This is also where engine timing comes in to play. if your crankshaft and camshaft(s) aren't in sync with each other, then your valves will be opening/closing, and getting spark when the pistons aren't in the right positions.

Also, I haven't seen an answer to this. have you done a compression test? that checks the health of the piston rings, head gasket, and valve seats to ensure that the motor is capable of running right....

 

How's this:

Quit worrying about how the bike WAS running; when you get it back together it will run much better.

GET THE VALVES IN SPEC; you can't properly sync the carbs until they are.

Quite often the carbs that look the cleanest inside are the most completely plugged up inside.

 

Good wisdom right there.....

 

(experience)