Favorite product to clean cooling fins

Last weekend, I completed thoroughly cleaning the carbs for my 82 750 Seca. They were severely varnished. This weekend, I'm taking the tank to work to clean it. Will also check for spark so, with the clean fuel system, I can try to start the motor to see how it runs. If it does, I'm going to continue with the tear down/refinish/rebuild of the rest of the bike.

I plan to use Mothers Mag/Alum polish and a 4" buffer wheel for the smooth parts of the engine case, but what is the best product (readily available) to remove the oxidation and best method to polish the cylinder cooling fins?

Will this really be as hard as I think it's going to be?

 

I use a regular parts cleaning brush and solvent to remove most of the grime, oil, and dirt in the cooling fins Works OK for me, and gets about 90% of the dirt out.

 

have the motor soda blasted, the rest will be much easier, here is a pic of mine.

 

Soda blasted. I'm going to have to check into what that is. I'm assuming a water/baking soda solution with a pressure blast will dissolve the oxidation? That would be easy to do - non toxic also.

BTW, your bike looks great!

 

it's a totally dry process, baking soda under very high pressure, i don't think you could do it yourself. the guy who did mine charged $100 au, which i thought was ok, as it's the only blasting method where you can keep the motor in one piece.

 

That does look good. I guess the aluminum will still oxidized though? Did you use any kind of clear coat after you had this done to prevent it?

 

i didn't clear coat , i thought if it was to start peeling it would look worse than leaving it. from time to time i will wrap some 80 grit round a flat file and drag it between the fins. you have to keep at the casings anyway, there's no permanent solution.

 

Hi,
I think it was RickOmatic that mentioned wrapping steel wool onto/into a q-tip end for carb parts cleaning, i found it embeds nicely in the cotton and works great. You may even be able to put it into a slow speed drill or dremel (especially the wood shaft ones) and get between the fins that way.

Hope this helps,
A.B.Ames

 

000 Steelwool
Followed By
0000 Steelwool
Followed by
Mag/alum polish(Following the directions of course)

 

Thanks for the responses

I am really impressed by the activity on this forum and consider myself quite lucky to have chanced upon a project bike that turned out to have such a following.

 

Wizard, I love the finish you got from your soda blasting. But I'm going to suggest heavily that you consider clear coating it. As you know aluminum does corrode in the presence of moisture and salts. The air we breath has plenty of this moisture and salts (in the form of solid compounds like smog) as well as the occasional water splashes from the road (which likely has more salt compounds). These natural and man-made elements are conspiring even now to do in your beautiful finish. Unless you care to clean and polish this bike every week or two for the rest of it's days, you might want to rethink your current course (that is unless you park it inside and keep it out of the sight of the open road, and I doubt that will happen).
The factory coated the engines with a clear lacquer to protect the metal's finish. It would be wise to follow their lead.
True, the lacquer finish yellows with age but I'd rather take the engine in every decade for a fresh soda blast than spend hours cleaning it. Remember, corrosion leaves pits and the only way to get it all out is to blast it clean with a media blaster or chemically convert it with a conversion compound (I haven't seen a pretty converter yet, they just aren't very good for appearance).
All of this is my attempt to help you maintain that beautiful finish as long as possible. You can leave it naked but be prepared for the inevitable pitting. And that would be a pitty.

 

Hi Robert, thanks for your input, much appreciated, but I think I've missed the boat now. I should have clear coated the motor before it went back in the frame and all the peripherals were added. It will have to be next time, it will be interesting to monitor the ageing process. Wiz.

 

Also a note to a couple of folks above - you do not want to use any kind of STEEL wool on any aluminum parts - ie the engine. Tiny bits of the steel will embed themselves into the soft aluminum, and will rust over time -- you'll get these dark spots that you can't get out.

Much better to use either synthetic 'steel' wool, bronze wool, or stainless steel wool -- no corrosion.

 

Robert

I Thought Yamaha Used silver paint on the engines, I believe PJ1 makes it

http://www.temeculamotorsports.com/esho ... E_PAIN.htm

Of course the soda blasting is awesome to say the least. Looks nearly chrome.

 

Flash, not on any of my engines. Just clear on my 650 Maxim and a splash of black on the cylinders on my Secas. It might well be that some years recieved a silver coating but I'm not aware of which they might be.
PJ1 is great stuff for returning a freshly cleaned off engine to original appearances. I use it myself and love the finish.

 

Robert- - My '81 Seca 750 is definitely painted silver, which looks just like aluminum. I pressure washed the motor, only to peel some of this paint.
There is no overspray on the frame either.

I wouldn't advise pressure washing your bike; all the greasy grunge just gets re-located to clean areas, and water gets into places it would not normally go.

Also, +1, or -1 really on the rusty steel wool to clean aluminum.

 

Indeed, the block of my '81 is painted silver. The covers are au natural and lacquered, though. Or at least were. Some bits are flaking.